Wideband O2

If you are going to Tweecer tune ...........
you want to output the wb to one of two options

1) pcm egr input
2) data Q interface

With either option, you have the wb output
displayed in your datalog along with the other data

Having said that, one of those wb's that will log
rpm and other options is really not needed
IF
you go with this method of install and use

Grady

using a wideband o2 allows you to run a air/fuel ratio guage

In reading up awhile back, it seemed like some WB O2's can send a 1 volt signal for the computer as well as running a 5 volt signal, but it seems like it's not an optimal way to go (better to tap another bung and leave the stock O2's for the computer).


The gurus like Grady can tell you if that's right and give more info.

Good luck.

HISSIN50 said:

In reading up awhile back, it seemed like some WB O2's can send a 1 volt signal for the computer as well as running a 5 volt signal, but it seems like it's not an optimal way to go (better to tap another bung and leave the stock O2's for the computer).

Click to expand...

My Innovate LC-1 has the option for dual output (Wideband signal + narrowband 0-1V). I didn't do it however - I left the stock O2s in place and put a bung right after the passenger side O2. My reasoning was that unless I swapped out BOTH sides w/ the same sensor (LC-1) it would get slightly different readings between the left and right banks. I also plan on removing the wideband and using on my other Mustang so I didn't want to be tied into using it on the '95.

Here is a link to my install...
http://www.72mach1.com/95-mustang-gt/lc-1-wideband-to-tweecer-install/

I used a DataQ. I bought my LC-1 off eBay.

Wes

final5-0 said:

If you are going to Tweecer tune ...........
you want to output the wb to one of two options

1) pcm egr input
2) data Q interface

With either option, you have the wb output
displayed in your datalog along with the other data

Having said that, one of those wb's that will log
rpm and other options is really not needed
IF
you go with this method of install and use

Grady

Click to expand...

Hey Grady, I got a few questions for you, or anyone that can help with alot of knowledge with this. I'm about to order a wideband setup to tune with my Tweecer r/t. I plan on datalogging it through the egr input (I think? lol), how do I hook this up?....(I don't have egr ports in my head so I can't use it anyway), just simply run a wire to evp signal wire?


2.I don't know which one I want (one with a gauge at least), although I'm a little interested in the Autometer one but on their site it says it only has a 0-4v output, wouldn't I need 0-5v?

3.If I get one like the LC-1 how often do I have to calibrate it? I plan on driving it everyday and would really rather not have to take it out just to calibrate it, (if I can't do it while it's in the exhaust)

Which one do you use or recommend and why? I don't mind spending 400 bucks but I just want something that has everything I need.

Thanks alot! Sean

/..

95Vert said:

/..

Click to expand...

??

Black1987Stang said:

3.If I get one like the LC-1 how often do I have to calibrate it? I plan on driving it everyday and would really rather not have to take it out just to calibrate it, (if I can't do it while it's in the exhaust)

Click to expand...

I have the LC-1 tied into my twEECer via a DataQ. Has worked great. I bought it off eBay with a gauge/calibration button for $190 shipped.

Some say the LC-1 is better because you can calibrate it, some say it is worse because you have to calibrate it. Calibration wasn't a deal breaker for me. Also look at the PLX and AEM widebands - they are popular with the dyno shops around here.

I didn't go EGR route because I also needed an additional input to log boost anyways. Nothing at all wrong with using the EGR if you have disabled or can disable the EGR valve.

Calibration schedule from the LC-1 Manual:

4.3 Calibration Schedule
Normally aspirated daily driver:
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first
Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich):
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first
Race car
- Calibrate before first installation of new sensor
- Calibrate once per race weekend
Dyno use
- Calibrate a new sensor
- Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage