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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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would this pass nj emissions?

  • Thread starter Thread starter missionx96x
  • Start date Start date Jun 19, 2005
M

missionx96x

New Member
Dec 12, 2004
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Jun 19, 2005
#1
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #1
long tube headers, magnaflow x pipe w/ cats, flowmaster 2 chamber catback. if not is there anything i could do to help it pass?
 
G

GT89Mustang

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Monmouth County, NJ
Jun 19, 2005
#2
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #2
Looks good, I passed in NJ with only 2 cats but I had really low #'s, as long as its in good tune and not too loud you shouldnt have a problem. If your really worried you could probably take it to a private place, they might not look as closely.

Where in NJ are you?
 
M

missionx96x

New Member
Dec 12, 2004
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Jun 19, 2005
#3
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #3
im in ocean county. its in like central/southern nj. im buying a 1992 stang and i mputtin that exhaust on it.
 
J

jaackal

New Member
May 12, 2003
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NJ
Jun 19, 2005
#4
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #4
i live in central jersey.....do 1 of 2 things to guarantee you pass....put like 5 bottles of dry gas in ur tank with like 1/4 tank gas...or use this stuff called "guarenteed to pass emissions" which worked for me and turn ur timing back to stock 10* if you have it advanced.
 
M

ms93gt

New Member
Oct 15, 2004
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Bayville, NJ
Jun 19, 2005
#5
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #5
Hey where in Ocean County do you live? I'm in Bayville.
 

willys1

Active Member
Dec 2, 2003
1,004
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New Jersey
Jun 19, 2005
#6
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #6
As long as you have cats and tail pipes you shouldnt have a problem,unless its running like sh@t.
 

jrichker

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Dublin GA
Jun 19, 2005
#7
  • Jun 19, 2005
  • #7
How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
 
M

missionx96x

New Member
Dec 12, 2004
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Jun 20, 2005
#8
  • Jun 20, 2005
  • #8
i live in jackson, nj
 
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