Wow, x-pipe install sucks!

F8Lstang

Member

Dec 6, 2003

47

0

6

Jan 13, 2004

#1

• Jan 13, 2004

• #1

I guess I'm too weak or something, but I cant budge ANY of the header bolts. They are all frozen with rust, it sucks. looks like I'm gonna have to pay for an install :\

 

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oneyedstang

New Member

Jan 26, 2003

103

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0

Malvern, PA

Jan 13, 2004

#2

• Jan 13, 2004

• #2

try hosing them down with some WD-40 or similar product. Also get a friend or your dad or someone to help and have them hold the top bolt still while you try to turn it from under the car

 

yellow5.0cobra

Founding Member

Jul 25, 2002

2,849

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In the garage, On the floor.

Jan 13, 2004

#3

• Jan 13, 2004

• #3

Yep.

 

F8Lstang

Member

Dec 6, 2003

47

0

6

Jan 13, 2004

#4

• Jan 13, 2004

• #4

oneyedstang said:

try hosing them down with some WD-40 or similar product. Also get a friend or your dad or someone to help and have them hold the top bolt still while you try to turn it from under the car

Click to expand...

I used a ton of rust desolver, no luck. my ramps aren't high enough either so f it.

 

Whytry91

New Member

Nov 26, 2002

321

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0

Morrisville, NC

Jan 13, 2004

#5

• Jan 13, 2004

• #5

let the stuff soak in for a night, then get long extensions so you can put everything you got into it, I did mine on my garage floor with ramps so It can be done Im 6'2" 200 my butt fit under there and got it done, just have patience. I used this stuff called Tufoil, let mine sit for two days and they came right off. also make sure you haveone of those universal joint lookin things for your socket it will help you get in there better.

Oh yeah make sure you soak the hangers too. or if you know you're not going back to stock and your kit came with new hangers cut em off with bolt cutters, it saves a lot of time

Good luck

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

2,773

17

89

Dallas, GA

Jan 13, 2004

#6

• Jan 13, 2004

• #6

Soak everything that is going to move what so ever with a good penetrating lubercant. I work in a shop, the best stuff so far for breaking loose bolts and rust is PB Blaster, plus it smells good. Not that it matters, but I just thought I would add that Let is soak for a while, even overnight and just keep it soaked, it will seep down in the grooves.

It's all about tools and knowing how to use them. Use a ratchet with a longer handle. Just a few inches can make all the difference. A swivel and a long extention helps also. There isn't a bolt under the car I couldn't break loose with my Snap-on 3/8ths ratchet, if it doesn't break loose, it will break, gauranteed.

 

DirtyD916

Active Member

May 25, 2003

804

1

38

Norcal 916

Jan 13, 2004

#7

• Jan 13, 2004

• #7

get a nice breaker bar and a fat friend to help. That combined with a little bit of praying and some wd-40 and theres no bolt safe.

 

quiksilver9531

Founding Member

Oct 9, 2001

469

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0

New Jersey

Jan 13, 2004

#8

• Jan 13, 2004

• #8

lets see all my H pipe to muffler bolts snapped in half and when I tried to get a bolt off for the H pipe to headers that bolt broke too so I was like screw this..I was taking off my H pipe to install a new tranny crossmemeber

 

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86Five-0

Member

May 6, 2003

806

0

16

New Jersey

Jan 13, 2004

#9

• Jan 13, 2004

• #9

It can be done, I've swapped my Hpipes 3 times all by myself, with a ratchet and pipe extension and lots of WD-40. The last time I did it in my garage with the front jacked up on jackstands. Very tight fit because I'm 5'11" 200lbs but I still managed to do it. But if you got a set of decent ramps than definately go for it.

 

BADPONYsc

Founding Member

Sep 4, 2001

884

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17

Florence, SC

Jan 13, 2004

#10

• Jan 13, 2004

• #10

I don't guess you have a torch, do you? Last resort anyway.

 

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Flyin88LX

New Member

Dec 26, 2003

28

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1

Colchester IL

Jan 13, 2004

#11

• Jan 13, 2004

• #11

I did my 88 LX this summer and ramped the front and jackstands on the back and had plenty of room.I had an air impact with long extensions and u joint adapters to make the bends and got along just fine.You might try to borrow someones electric impact,it might work just as well.

 

F8Lstang

Member

Dec 6, 2003

47

0

6

Jan 13, 2004

#12

• Jan 13, 2004

• #12

air tools would definately make it easier. once it gets on there it will have new bolts so changing it back shouldnt be a problem

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Founding Member

Aug 7, 2002

9,516

6

99

Arkansas

Jan 14, 2004

#13

• Jan 14, 2004

• #13

Just use a little force...I'm 6'3'' and 220 I didn't have problems and I'm just average strength...I think taking off any midpipe is pretty easy...if you have the room and a good swivel to get a better angle on the bolt...and mine just "backed" on out...good luck...

David

 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member

Sep 9, 2000

4,675

38

119

Antelope Valley, SoCal

Jan 14, 2004

#14

• Jan 14, 2004

• #14

90mustangGT said:

There isn't a bolt under the car I couldn't break loose with my Snap-on 3/8ths ratchet, if it doesn't break loose, it will break, gauranteed.

Click to expand...

You're right. Thats exactly what my Snap-On 3/8" ratchet did.

Anyway, I always use 1/2" drive tools when working on my header bolts because I have to use at least 18" worth of extension. If the 1/2" ratchet wont do it, the 20" beaker bar will. Also, it wasnt mentioned whether or not the headers in question are stock. If they are, then either the nut will come off the stud or the whole stud will unscrew from the header collector flange. That or one of the above will break.