Yep Another Newbie With Dumb ?'s

budguy211 · Apr 25, 2006

I bought a 2000 Gt a few months ago and I had a few questions about the mod motor since this is my first non fox bodied stang, and I checked in the newbie section for questions and did not see anything. I am going to change the plugs and saw that that the injector/rails are bolted on top of the plug wires. When you unbolt the rails, I am guessing that you pop out the injectors from the bottom? Common sense told me if you do it from the top, fuel will leak out. (I just wanted to check cause I don't want to frack anything up). Also I am planning on putting a ATI procharger in a few months, so would a plenum even be worth buying? The only mods I have done so far is a Steeda Ti-Ax shifter, SLP X-Pipe, and LM2 exhaust. Next is suspension, and 3.73's. If you don't feel like answering these newbie questions can you please point me in the right direction, or any info would be great. Thanks in advance

40oz · Apr 25, 2006

I don't think you need to remove the fuel rails to get at the plugs. Just unbolt the one bolt holding in the COP, remove the COP, and then change the plug. Replace and bolt down the COP, and go to the next one.

sgarlic · Apr 25, 2006

You don't remove the fuel rails to change plugs.

Here's a good site with tons of how to articles for you.
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1000.htm

Specifically, here's the spark plug how-to. http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm

Now, as far as your procharger plans, yes I would say a plenum would be a good buy, but I'd definately get gears first.

Kilgore Trout · Apr 25, 2006

A few tips I would offer you on spark plug change:
-platinum lasts up to 100k and is the stock plug AGSF-32PM
-copper is hotter but only lasts 20-40k or so AGSF-32C
-you must blow the debris out of the plug wells before removing plugs
-completely remove the rubber boots from the COPs and clean and condition them with 303 Aerospace Protectant
-use silicone dielectric grease on all electrical mating surfaces
-torque plugs to spec and check them a few weeks later for proper torque
-some people use one step colder plugs in the rearmost two cylinders due to a design flaw that causes reduced coolant flow to those cylinders

budguy211 · Apr 25, 2006

Thanks sgarlic and kilgore for the great info. That site you put up has great info, and would be for any newbie. Once again, thanks.

sgarlic · Apr 25, 2006

Just to piggy back on what Kilgore said, although some people don't, I always use anti-seize compound on the last few threads of the plug (furthest away from the electrode so as not to get any on the electrode itself,) and I always use the hose trick to get the plug started.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 25, 2006

How many miles do you have on the engine.

With all the problems the 4.6L has with shooting plugs out of the heads i wouldn't swap plugs unless you really needed to. The aluminum in the head strips rather easily.

Wait til you do the blower before doing plugs because you'll most likely need to change them again to decrease the gap and go a heat range cooler

PS. A 2000GT is still technically a Fox body. Look around under the car and in the engine bay and you'll see very familiar pinchwelds and chassis mounting points. The windshield washer resevior is located in one of the cutouts originally used for 79-85 Carbed stangs.

Yep Another Newbie With Dumb ?'s

budguy211

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sgarlic

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Yep Another Newbie With Dumb ?'s

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