Mcmahst said:

What would we do without you Mustang5L5? You are a true gentleman.

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You'd have to depend on me and Noobz, in either case you're screw'd

Hot Stang said:

I guess if you're not running much HP they should be fine. They look good though.

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Come on man, really? Plenty of 302's running these springs and making a lot of power. Springs do not dictate hp the package does but they can rob it if you are running high closed pressure springs when you do not need them. Anyhow, maybe start a thread on Frankenstein and let JulianR enjoy his project without bashing it.

What would we do without you Mustang5L5? You are a true gentleman.

Good morning all!

I went back last night and checked continuity between 46 and 40/60. There was no continuity between either of them. Regarding your question about testing at the correct pin, I used the attached diagram and counted them out (1-20 on the bottom, 21-40 middle row and 41-60 on the top row). Is that correct?

Also, I pulled up some other 1990 wiring diagrams to see where the black/white wire from pin 46 should be, so I could compare them on this car (if the gray/red is there instead of the black/white).

It seems that on this car Ford used the gray/red wire instead of the black/white wire. I found it at the ECU, the 8 pin connector going into the dash harness and the harness connection going to the O2 sensors...

Opps, sorry, misread. Yes, disconnected. Gotta stop drinking so much coffee.

Mustang5L5 said:

Felt bad I hadn’t paid attention to the fox in a bit. Lifted the cover up and peeked my head inside. Still clean.

I have some goodies to buy this guy shortly…

View attachment 718232

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Are those custom Terminator seats?

Only way I can share a video of my Stang here. Yes it has timing gears, no chain.

I used this as a template. They stayed with stock heads, mines the P heads.
Some good info for when you're ready. Make your own changes along the way.

Rcdgl said:

Another before shot

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Holy Rust Out Batman!

Mustang5L5 said:

Lifted the cover up and peeked my head inside.

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Whats that?!?
New registration?

JulianR said:

Thanks! Yeah, it's my first and mild build. Didn't want to go too wild

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Don't judge a book by it's cover. '85 HO block bored 30 over and decked 15 thousandth with 11:1 Chevy pistons on Ford rods. Heads are shaved 8 thousandth. I'm running a mild flat tappet Crane Cam, not a roller fan. I have a dual plane intake and now a 750 CFM Carter carb.

JulianR said:

Thanks! Yeah, it's my first and mild build. Didn't want to go too wild

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I'm going back together with mine. I just had to pull motor because I broke my torque converter, easier than dropping trans. I'm doing a few minor changes also. Bigger carb and long tube headers. O and changing the 7.5 273 rear for a 8.8 327 rear.

Thanks! Yeah, it's my first and mild build. Didn't want to go too wild

I guess if you're not running much HP they should be fine. They look good though.

Ladies and gentlemen, we have 1 head done. Cleaned, painted, new valve seals, shimmed and trickflow springs

Just my play toy.

AeroCoupe said:

Or just get these springs and skip the machine shop.

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-2500100

Have been installed on hundreds of sets of GT40’s and GY40P’s.

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For the price you pay for them I had my dual springs done cheaper. Of course I'm running about a 500 HP motor that will turn close to 8,000 rpm's. They might be ok for stock motors.

Or just get these springs and skip the machine shop.


Have been installed on hundreds of sets of GT40’s and GY40P’s.

Change of plans with the fuel lines - I was having a b**ch of a time getting the rear lines to cooperate. So I ordered stainless braided PTFE lines to work with instead of attempting to get the hard lines bent and installed. I'm fairly certain that the main problem I'm having is lying on my back wtih maybe 8 inches of clearance to work. The new lines should be here tomorrow, so I'll be back at trying to get fuel lines ran.