Latest activity

Cobra Jet NJ · Mar 6, 2024

Jarhead67 said:
Are they still available?

Yes - please PM me on here if interested to close deal. Thanks!

Hizdudeness · Mar 6, 2024

$1000 for the both

Greetings,

I have decided to go a different route on my 408W and have decided to offer for sale my intake manifold. I have been sitting on this thing for quite some time. I will not be separating the upper and lower. Please DO NOT contact me asking me to do this. I know exactly how rare what I have is. Please don't try and lowball offer me either. It is quite possible that this is the ONLY manifold in the world with this claim. I have for sale a 351w EFI R series upper and lower that are brand new never installed. The upper you can still purchase as its the same between 302 and 351. It is an R series of the 75mm TB size. Yes you can go bigger if you would like. Neither of these parts have been test fitted, installed or modified in any way. They were only removed from the bags and boxes to take pictures. The lower manifold is an R series for a 351w 9.5" deck. The pictures show parts #s that can be verified with Trick Flow. They will also confirm that the lower is no longer made and is a rare piece. Also included is a 4 pack of upper to lower gaskets. Does not included mounting bolts or lower gaskets. The install kits are still available and in stock via Trick Flow.

I accept payment via Paypal and shipping will be insured via UPS. Buyer to pay for shipping and Paypal fees. The uppers go new for $389.99 The lower is no longer available at any price. There are currently 0 for sale on the interwebs...save this one. I'm asking $1000 for the both. Considering what gt40 manifolds are going for I'd consider this a bargain as it is brand new and they are not. It is also quite rare. If required I can take more pictures or for verification purchases so you aren't worried about a scam. I am located in the mountains of Northern Georgia. If you are near and wish to make a road trip you are welcome to do so avoid shipping, but no I will not meet you halfway. Thanks for looking and have a great day! If I seem somewhat snarky forgive me as I recently sold a lot of parts from my Raptor and had to deal with more than I care to say in BS when doing so.

Regards,
Sean

AeroCoupe · Mar 6, 2024

The 331 in my Coupe is 11:1 and zero issues on 91 octane (Oklahoma’s super unleaded). Aluminum heads really help with the higher compression ratios.

AeroCoupe · Mar 6, 2024

That’s what I did on my Thunderbird. Most likely will remove all of it and go to a Holley Terminator X at some point for drivability and easier to tune.

Mcmahst · Mar 6, 2024

I’ve noticed on some of these forums, the internal search capabilities are very limited, such as using And or quotation marks, etc. No such limitation on Google.

limp · Mar 6, 2024

Back in the day a cheap performance gain was using lighter springs in the distributor advance...
I tried that with my Dodge after I got it running and it did NOT like it one bit.... I blame todays modern gas....
I reinstalled the heavier springs and all was good again...

1everett1 · Mar 6, 2024

qikgts said:
Have you removed the sender from the circuit and checked the output?

A band aid might be to put a 1.5k ohm resistor in parallel with the circuit. That should take the 167 ohms your seeing now to 150.27 ohms. It will however always effect the circuit.

Another thought is maybe the anti-slosh module is the issue here.

87-89 new Anti Slosh Module https://www.npdlink.com/product/amp...nits-repro-e7zz-10e849-a-e9zz-10e849-a/216169

jbvince7469 · Mar 5, 2024

New to platform and seeking knowledge about Mustangs. I have owned a few and currently own a 2004 V6 model. All info and replies are greatly appreciated.

jbvince7469 · Mar 5, 2024

It's in a 2004 40th Anniversary Edge

jbvince7469 · Mar 5, 2024

Any tips on pulling a trans out to do a rear main seal change on a 3.9?

Gone Blue · Mar 5, 2024

Clb1047 said:
Standard t-5. I bought an entire junk car,92 hatch, just for the tranny. You will need a different drive shaft. I found out that the 4cyl auto is the one with the unique one. All other applications are the same. I added a hurst comp shifter and a svo clutch and flywheel. Good luck with your swap. Probably the best upgrade I’ve done next to chassis stiffeners. Gary

Ok cool, Clb1047! I bought a 87' hatch for my parts car and did keep the drive shaft as I wasn't sure if I could use my auto one? Thanks Gary, I appreciate all your info. Brett

2Blue2 · Mar 5, 2024

Off to a good start!
I love this stuff!

Clb1047 · Mar 5, 2024

Gone Blue said:
Clb1047, awesome, thanks for your reply. I thought the stock auto 3.73 gear seemed like it should be a great fit with the T5, just wanted to make sure the motor would pull that gear OK, the torque monster the 2.3L is, lol I assume you installed a standard 2.3L T5 and not one from a SVO ? Thx

Standard t-5. I bought an entire junk car,92 hatch, just for the tranny. You will need a different drive shaft. I found out that the 4cyl auto is the one with the unique one. All other applications are the same. I added a hurst comp shifter and a svo clutch and flywheel. Good luck with your swap. Probably the best upgrade I’ve done next to chassis stiffeners. Gary

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 5, 2024

I know it's not the popular opinion,but if I'm going 351w I'm going carb'd. To easy.

FYWW · Mar 5, 2024

I was suspecting a vacuum leak due to the way my car was driving, so I hooked up a DIY smoke machine to the back vac port and found that my IAC was leaking smoke/air, but not from the place I would have thought. It's actually leaking from around the cylinder (sorry, don't know the technical name for it). I have it highlighted in red in the photo.

Has anyone else experienced this, and are IAC valves prone to leaking from this location?

General karthief · Mar 5, 2024

limp said:
So what exactly are the heads summit recommends for these blocks?? Can you use an aftermarket head on them?
I just read an article on Boss 351 engines and they take the cleveland heads?
Just curious here...

Available in the Boss 302 Mustangs of 1969–70, it's a unique Ford small-block engine featuring a thin-wall, high nickel content block casting. It differed substantially from regular 302s, with 4-bolt mains, screw in freeze plugs, and heads using a canted valve design being developed for the planned 351 Cleveland (which debuted the following year), credit Wikipedia
For the Boss 351, the entire Cleveland engine was used instead of simply the heads. Credit CJ Pony parts

Bullitt347 · Mar 5, 2024

First off, the FMS Boss 302 block is much stronger than a stock 302 block.
The Dart Sportsman block is much stronger than the FMS Boss block.
The FMS Boss 302 block has shorter skirts than the Dart Sportsman block, so stroker kits work "better" with the Dart block.
An original Boss 302 was a heavy duty 302 block with 4 bolt mains (center 3 only) and screw in freeze plugs.
The original Boss 302 used a Cleveland 4 bbl cylinder head. This required a unique intake manifold.
Any Boss 302 block (FMS or original) can use any aftermarket or stock SBF cylinder head.
A Dart Sportsman (or Iron Eagle for that matter) have much more material around the cylinders, so much larger over bores are possible, upwards of 4.200 inch.
A Dart Iron Eagle block has 4 bolt mains (splayed) on all 5 main bearings. It is capable of supporting over 2,000 HP.
The Dart Sportsman block is capable of supporting over 1,500 HP.

KRUISR · Mar 5, 2024

I have always pulled the shifter down to first on the shifter. Then go under the car and loosen the nut on the gear selector arm that the cable connects to. Then moving the transmission arm into first gear and tightening the nut. Then test the shifter in each gear. When you get it up to park, the gear selector arm should be all the way into park (and not be able to move further). Doing this with someone in the car moving the shifter while some else is under the car and watches (or feels) the arm change gear positions.

Latest activity

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SOLD Trick Flow 351w R series EFI manifold upper and lower NEW In BOX NEVER installed

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