Posts

Trogdor · 2024-05-29T01:22:30-0500

Monkeybutt2000 said:
I will never,EVER understand the chrome wheel arch moldings

They are great at covering rust!

Noobz347 · 2024-05-29T01:07:23-0500

RMneanCA said:
- to improve the 170 to the best it can ( I have just heard about Vintage Classics aluminum heads [not sur what is going on there] machine rebuild engine and all that)

All that stuff you said up there sounds great except for this part. Roller 302 all the way for me, an 8.8, and disk brakes.

Keep the 'matching numbers' 170 around as a conversation piece.

revhead347 · 2024-05-29T00:54:37-0500

WhiteCobra95 said:
Excellent information! Thanks a million for taking the time to do the write up and for posting so many pictures of this really involved process. I can't wait to hear your review of the conversion once she's back on the road.

BTW: Your car looks great!

Actually the car has been back on the road for 8 months, and I have just been procrastinating on getting this write up done. The clutch is broken in now, and everything works great, soup to nuts, no problems. I'm probably going to spend a lot of time editing this, because I want to put in more useful pictures, more information, etc.

BTW, the car is absolutely filthy in that picture. Here is the car after a wash up. The car obviously gets good traction on drag slicks, but got terrible traction with my old rear tires on the street. I put some new street wheels on it to get wider tires in the back for more traction.

Kurt

revhead347 · 2024-05-29T00:39:56-0500

stackz said:
yeah, it was decently loud when I bench tested it but it was no louder than an aftermarket fuel pump whirring away. it was also a LOT less noisy compared to my whining ford power steering pump

You mean I won't hear it over my T-Rex fuel pump (yes I still have one of those antiques)?

Kurt

StockerStang · 2024-05-28T23:51:50-0500

Got some progress done...
1) Stock "performance" spring compared to a pacalloy beehive spring.
2) Stock locks compared to 7* comp cams locks.
3) 192# on the seat and 350# over the nose.
4) Tapping guide to installs new bronze guides
5) Ready to install bronze guide
6) Reaming the guide to correct size
7) One done and next hole tapped

Farmstad · 2024-05-28T23:02:05-0500

VERGAZ1 said:
if and when a guy finds an untouched 96-7 explorer what size sockets should he have with him to remove the intake and heads? any other tools to help with the job? I'm a rube but also trying to have everything I need in my truck for when I get lucky without hauling too much around. 2 closest junkyards are both about an hour away so I want to be ready. Thanks In advance

I can't remember every socket size I used but make sure you have everything up to like I don't know a 24mm maybe, whatever that is imperial 3/4 15/16.
Also bring an impact if you can for the header bolts. Make sure you loosen the head bolts incrementally as well.

limp said:
Buy the entire engine, they are selling for around $400.....

But I agree with my boy Limp if you have the time just take the whole engine it will be worth it I would think if you do find it.

oh PS if you do only take the intake and heads take the 19lb injectors as well they are better than the stock mustang. Better spray pattern I think. I should have took them when I found that explorer...

Noobz347 · 2024-05-28T22:43:57-0500

Yes. The heater core and evaporator core are independent of one another.

You're already aware that hot coolant flows through the heater core. There is a restrictor stuffed inside of the inlet hose (remember this). Engine coolant flows through the heater core any time the engine is running. The heater [blend door] (operated by vacuum) mixes heater core air with cabin/outside air.

You have two options: Replace the heater core or bypass it.

Since you're in Virginia, I would suggest replacing it but doing the bypass until you have all your [collective stuff] in one sack to do the project. It's a weekend deal.

smithder · 2024-05-28T21:48:56-0500

Well the good news is it sounds like your block was not cracked. I bought my car with this problem and it only had about 1200 miles on the rebuilt engine. Has aluminum heads and aftermarket BBK SSI intake. Glade to hear you didn’t have a cracked block. Everyone says oil in the coolant is likely a cracked block. Plan to pull my intake and heads soon to check it out. Have driven about 1000 miles like this with no other issues other than the oil leaking into the coolant.

red5.0fox · 2024-05-28T20:26:05-0500

AeroCoupe said:
If all the wiring is as should be then it sounds like the starter is spinning but not pushing the starter gear outwards to engage the flywheel. This is typically a fault of the starter bendix drive. Pull the starter and take it to the parts store for testing to confirm.

There has been a large oil leak dripping right on it for a while if that could cause it. But I’m wondering about what could have caused this since it was running great before I pulled the trans, and now it doesn’t start correctly. Could something I did with pulling the transmission cause this?

stangdrvr4life · 2024-05-28T20:03:04-0500

Mustang5L5 said:
Not here off the AC compressor? (red and blue caps)

View attachment 720342

Where you get your conversion kit...or what did parts did you use? I just got new lines today and you'd think they'd sell the accumulator set with the 134a already installed. The conversion kit I got also doesn't work.

Mustang72h · 2024-05-28T19:05:09-0500

Mustang72h said:
Hey everyone. First Post! anyways i have a 94 5.0 with a 331 stroker, procharger and a fast efi ecu.

i just purchased this car a week ago. It started and ran fine when i went to get it minus needing a starter (would click) but got it fired up. A week later, change starter, same problem. Was only getting 5v to signal wire on starter. Cranks fine with 12v to signal wire, but now no start. Today i unplugged the connector on driver side and plugged it back in ( for the signal wire), car cranks fine with key now but still no start. 40 psi of fuel pressure is holding. Car has great spark to the dis cap from the coil. Seems a little intermittent coming out of the cap though. New cap and rotor, no change. injectors have 12v, and i can watch the ground signal flash as it cranks. it fires very intermittently but that's it. Where should i go next? there was no battery in the car when starter was changed so very low chance of shorting something out.
thanks for any ideas.

sorry its a 1993.

LILCBRA · 2024-05-28T18:11:27-0500

Welcome to the site! :cheers:

Noobz347 · 2024-05-28T16:41:46-0500

Start with the marker lights. Figure out where power is getting to those lights with the switch in the [off] position.

I see two possibilities:

1. The wiring is incorrect (regardless of what the instructions indicate - they are fallible)
2. You have a broken/missing ground someplace and power is finding another path to ground (perhaps through the marker lights)

Do not discount the possibility of something shorting out in [any] of the light housings. They've been messed with so, they are suspect. Right down to each bulb and socket.

AeroCoupe · 2024-05-28T16:37:54-0500

Have you used a multi meter or even a test light to start at the battery and work towards the starter solenoid on the inner fender so see where the voltage gets to and then stops? You may have a bad ground. Voltage drop test will do a lot of good as well.

AeroCoupe · 2024-05-28T16:33:52-0500

The OP disappeared...

Scared Homer Simpson GIF by reactionseditor - Find & Share on GIPHY

Discover & share this reactionseditor GIF with everyone you know. GIPHY is how you search, share, discover, and create GIFs.

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Nice86 · 2024-05-28T16:03:31-0500

I am selling my 1986 Mustang GT project car. A comprehensive description of the car and the work that has been done on it is on my website: www.86mustang.com. If you are considering a Fox body project, this is worth checking out as it could save you thousands. I am the second owner and have owned the car for 34 years. It has been stored indoors every winter and therefore is very solid. After rebuilding the engine with performance upgrades, I decided to take the car to the next level with paint, chassis, suspension, and interior upgrades. This is all described on my website with many photos.

After spending approximately $28,000 in engine work and many new upgrade parts (complete listing available), my life focus was redirected to building a new retirement home and the Mustang project was put on hold. I am now at the age where it no longer makes sense for me to invest more resources. It’s time to accept my loses and move on. My asking price is $12,000. I am located in Greenfield, NH.

I am posting an archive photo taken before I began the project work, and some photos of its current status. It has been sitting on my 4-post lift for the last 6 years. Please see my website www.86mustang.com (best viewed with laptop/desktop) for a complete description.

FastDriver · 2024-05-28T15:56:05-0500

I've seen a rule of thumb that when you divide the exhaust flow by the intake flow, & then every percent less than 75% wants 1.5 degrees of exhaust duration @ .050".

Maybe this gives a decent idea of why split patterns work so well on GT40 style heads. Let's take the GT40X heads, for example. Skip to the second list, at the bottom, on this:

So, at .600, it'd be around 69.8%, which would need about 7.7 degrees. The XE274HR, a pretty good cam that would have manners similar to a B-cam is 224/232 @ .050". 8 degrees!

So voila! And on top of the right split, it has 1 degree more LSA, which I'll bet makes it even more street friendly than the B-cam. The extra lift should help a bit, too.

Now, most that are familiar with nitrous cams know that they generally have even more duration on the exhaust side, and that jibes with the idea that injecting nitrous is equivalent to having an even bigger intake CFM flow.

Just some food for thought for ya.

limp · 2024-05-28T10:35:06-0500

Potomus Pete said:
David Bowie has been one of my favorites my whole life. A great time in America to grow up.

Golden Years buh buh buh Golden years...

Blooddiamond91 · 2024-05-28T08:13:40-0500

Mustang5L5 said:
Colorado does an actual sniffer test?

How many states still do that?

yes sniffer and inspection.

Dan_Fish_Pro · 2024-05-28T05:39:49-0500

Nicolaj: I replaced poly tranny mount with rubber mount, no difference. getting ready to try new motor mounts. can't find any place tranny touching frame or body even after enlarging shifter hole. If motor mounts don't help, will pull tranny again to see if mechanic was right about no vibration with tranny removed. A friend has another t5 I could stick back in just to make sure tranny is good

ThinBlue502 · 2024-05-28T04:46:28-0500

Habu135 said:
What's going on with your fuel door there?

It’s carbon fiber.

I love that picture you posted last page of your car.

AeroCoupe · Monday at 9:50 PM

SN95 ball joints do not work on Fox spindles as they are too short. Fox ball joints on SN95 spindles require 0.330” of spacer between the spindle and castle nut.

Monday at 7:22 PM

I would like to advertise my 86 Mustang project car for sale on StangNet. I have created a website 86mustang.com in order to completely describe the car. In reading your Terms of Service, I'm not sure I am allowed to reference my website in a posting so anyone interested can go to it. Can you please clarify this for me. If allowed, where should I put my posting? Thank you.

No matching spam trigger logs were found.

2Blue2 · Monday at 7:15 PM

but here's a couple of Mustang II overhead lights...

This is the same light in my car

1974_ford_mustang_158265859276e75afe66b8dBaTtake2-Photo126.jpg

and a trunk lid light

Mustang5L5 · Monday at 5:55 PM

limp said:
Some states with Antique or " special " plates with the front license requirement, allow the car to have a rear only plate... I know Oregon does that..

Mass does not.

They are sticklers for the front plates here. I’ve probably been pulled over 20+ times for it. Eventually I just put one on and got a Mustang related vanity plate

MA antique plates are actually more restrictive. You don’t want them.

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