Welcome to Stangnet.

Very nice convertible.

Snoop around our '79-'95 subforums, that's where us fox crazies hang out.

I look forward to hearing your plans for your mustang.

It's good to have you with us.

It's not your injectors. Don't throw parts at the car and add complications until you fix the actual problem.

Since there was white smoke, my money is on a head or intake gasket like the others already told you.

The TFI could cause it to cut out, but would not cause white smoke. However, it is cheaper, and worth a shot, but surprising if it did it that suddenly after 4 hours of driving. Typically the TFI has issues immediately when it warms up if it's bad. The white smoke in the exhaust is an indication of burning coolant, and it's accompanied by an almost sweet smell. After a build, you should retorque head and intake bolts that can come loose when gaskets compress and a few heat cycles. I think I just made the same mistake on my car, and I'm burning some extra oil. New gaskets on the way for me. Good luck!

Hello I recently put a new clutch kit, (clutch, bearings, and pressure plate) and flywheel, I also put in a new clutch form because it was broken in my 98gt and beforehand the clutch was SUPER stiff. After I swapped all of that it was like butter and over time it became super stiff again. Any tips??

Just picked up a new 2017 Black PP GT....Going back & forth between PP1 or PP2??? Seems like downloading that tune yourself is hit or miss. Pisses me off to pay Ford but for warranty reasons I might just have them do it up. Only mod I have is an Xpipe. Brought it home, up on the lift and out goes the resonator... sounds better already.

I've got some fresh pulled 91-93 splash shields, in pretty good shape, each side has one crack, not major. When I pulled them these cracks weren't affecting anything. located in Rockford Ohio for pickup only or willing to meet within reasonable distance. 125 OBO. Freshly pulled LX tail lights, very clean no cracks at all anywhere! 75$ pickup only or willing to meet within reasonable distance.

The tip would be to put the charcoal canister back, it's designed to properly vent gas fumes and is not that expensive fix, I think it would be safer too.

FoxMustangLvr said:

We should try each week to resurrect the oldest and most worthless thread possible that we can find just to upset the people that look to be offended every given moment of their existence. Isn't this the reason social media exists?

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Yes

Motor mount selection also plays a part into hood clearance. They may have added the spacers to clear the hood

I am planning on doing the same with my 2005 mustang gt. I want to use a motorcycle carrier to tow a dirtbike. Bike would be from 190-225 pounds.

What has me worried is that the max tounge weight for the mustang is 200lbs.

Did you ever have any issues? How long did u you use it for?

Thanks in advanced for any help!

Check for a YouTube video. I had to change one out on my Moms 2010 Taurus with 7,000 miles last summer. I was thankful it was the one behind the glove box and not the hard one. Your right, very common problem on Fords

Procharger advertises 475 horsepower (crank). I would say 475 horsepower is 'safe' without changing internal parts

[SOLD]
Listed are Ford 5.0/302 roller lifter Valvetrain/Cam components including: lifter guide plates, guide plate retainers "spider", roller lifters, and pushrods. There are 16 roller lifters (+1 spare for a total of 17). I was actually collecting these parts for a 302 I was going to put in a 66 Mustang, but I no longer have the car. Take a look through the photos (below).
$85/lot buyer pays shipping from Springfield, VA (22152) or local pickup.

This includes:
New Hydraulic Lifter Guide Plates (qty 16) E5ZZ-6K512-A
New Lifter Guide Plate Retainer (qty 1) F0AZ-6C515-A (these are not pushrod guides)
New set of Sealed Power Pushrods (5/16") RP-3241
Used Ford Hydraulic Roller Lifters 5/5.8L (qty 17) M-6500-R302 (pulled from a running 5.0 L)


If you are starting out a new build and need some valvetrain components then this is a great way to go. If you just need one or two items then let me know and make a reasonable offer.

It is recommended that installers use some Loc-tite and new lifter guide-plate retainer bolts (1/4"-20 x 5/8") when installing. Take a look and let me know if you have any questions.

Pictures are of actual parts listed for sale.

ok, thanks... I will see what's in there when I get ready to do it...(right now weather is cold, so looks like I'm done working on getting car back together until spring) so if I pull the rear housing (watch youtube video, doesn't look bad. to do, is black permatex good to seal it? if not, what is the best thing to use?

So I just discovered that one of my ‘stainless power’ long tube header tubes is hitting the edge of a bracket holding a/c tubes on the passenger side of the engine bay when under load. I’ve never noticed it from sound, but the tube is a little boogered up, so I know it’s hitting. There is very little clearance between them.

I am considering getting some adjustable poly motor mounts in an attempt to move and/or prevent the motor from twisting enough for it to hit... (98% sure it’s causing false knock readings)...

Do any of you guys run after market mounts? If so, did it make a difference? Thanks.

jayurface said:

Jrichker,

Thank you for all of the information you provided me. I am sure it will be very useful when I start diving into everything again. The problem is all of these sensors are new so not cleaning is needed. The mass air, IAT, TPS, bypass valve, EGR valve, Fuel injectors, speed sensor, O2 sensors, and PCM. The PCM is the correct configuration for a 94-95 cobra (J4J1). No blown fuses and the relays are good. Not too long ago I did take the PCM apart and did not see any obvious burn spots. All of the vacuum lines are new as well

Something I did forget to mention in my original posting. I have pulled codes several times to see if I get different ones and in the second session I got the code for lean bank 2.

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The codes also give instructions on how to test the wiring and the sensor output.
It would not be unusual at all to get a defective sensor right out of the box or have some bad wiring or bad connections in the wiring.

So, here's a strange one. A lot of guys turn there galloping stallions into track monsters. To do so requires a bit of tinkering. So, I can't help but wonder...

Would the following setup work? or fit?

19x10's with +35mm offset front and rear, with 285/35/19's for both?

Lower about 0.5-1.0" for lower CG, yet use a good set of springs to keep the ride nice and smooth on the highway for the daily drive?

The idea being, square that puppy up a bit for track stability, yet also allowing for tire rotations?

Any thoughts?

I think you would need svo length axles with that which iirc are longer than a standard fox (or something like that, I don't think that svo setup just slaps on). I think the better setup is the fox-style elims with fox length axles (there's also an ones, I don't think you want those for fox length axles) and the sn discs with the brackets chopped and flipped.

Thanks guys, I will try both of these and report back.

I noticed the other day that my fog lights will turn on without any other lights or clearance lights only on. Is it possible that the relay modification has already been done? I haven't touched the wiring.

Its a very complicated project - back in 2011 I bought a 4 cyl 1993 coupe (auto) and was planning to convert it as well (before computers)....besides the conversion of the rear end / brakes and speedo etc....I ended up just selling it ....and I'm looking for a coupe V-8 stick car too Much trouble 74stang2togo is right ...just find the car you want ...Bruce at Modern Driveline was nice enough to send me a quote so I'd have a parts list ....see enclosed ....its a PITA and for the money you'd spend ....you could just get a nicer car ....my two (2) cents

Exactly ......I would stay away from the mutha thumper's from comp cams (very violent) .....go for those 'hot' rod cams from ford racing .....combine that with 4.10 gears and you'll have a fun car to drive .....its not about any HP gains (you'll get a little) but its the sound and the way you get thrown back in the seat when you hit it.....

Login to view embedded media View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmAUYfyj1qA


I was never so nervous in my life when putting these into a new (15k on it at the time) mustang .....and I even had a ford master mechanic helping me (really doing the surgery)......but I like the results ...at the end of the vid ...I lift my camera and that's what it sounds like on the streets ....people pull next to me at a light and ask all the time ...."what the he!! do you got in there?" ......of course, I tell the truth..... "a poop load of $$$" ..haha

I can speak for the '65, but don't have a wiring diagram for the '68. The ignition switch has a Red-Green wire coming off it that is 12-Vdc. It goes into a pink resistance wire to drop the voltage down, then goes into the firewall connector to be routed to the coil. You would need to remove the resistance wire section out of your circuit to give you 12-Vdc to the coil in the run position. It already has 12-Vdc to the coil in start via a Brown wire that taps into the Red-Green wire ignition circuit to the coil on the engine compartment side.

Oh thanks. I'll continue to do research. Thanks for your help.

Alright, which one of you bought it. I didn’t even get to see it. Deleted.

revhead347 said:

I like it when non-Mustang cars come to Stangnet, because we know our stuff.

Kurt

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Speak for yourself
I know nothinck, nothinck (in my best german accent)