92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed

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my only update is that I have been feverishly selling parts. unloaded most of the efi stuff to fund the intake, gaskets and a couple other things I need. I might wait until cyber Monday to see if they do a 20% off or something at summitracing.com.

fyi whatever you think or estimate shipping is I always seem to be off by a fair amount screwing myself on every deal.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

my only update is that I have been feverishly selling parts. unloaded most of the efi stuff to fund the intake, gaskets and a couple other things I need. I might wait until cyber Monday to see if they do a 20% off or something at summitracing.com.

fyi whatever you think or estimate shipping is I always seem to be off by a fair amount screwing myself on every deal.

How are you selling them?

 

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on a different very popular mustang forum The classifieds on this forum just are not that good. people don't seem to look at them that much.

everything I have listed on the other site has sold. most stuff in a couple days. I am pretty aggressive with my prices because I don't really need any of this stuff collecting dust. But even with that most people have offered pretty close to what I was asking anyways.

this is what I have sold so far

main harness - 110
ecu- 150
upper and lower intake with throttle body and egr -320

I still have some injectors, injector harness, maf sensor.

If I can sell this stuff off and make enough to buy the edelbrock 7181 intake and another holley 650 with vacuum secondaries to make madmike happy then I will be cool with that.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

On the shipping, are you going online and getting estimates from UPS, USPS, and Fedex before doing your pricing? Doing it that way avoids surprises, and if you do the shipping online, its cheaper. Also, USPS has priority flat-rate boxes. Walk into the post office, grab the boxes for free (I keep about five of them in different sizes in my truck, I sell a ton of parts on Ebay) put the part in the box that fits before you list it, and you already know the shipping price.

I use Priority Flat Rate small boxes and envelopes for most small stuff that is too heavy to ship first class, FedEx Smartpost for most heavier stuff, and UPS Ground on the rare occaisions that its cheaper than either of them.

Also, if you don't have a scale, get one. A bathroom scale will work as long as it goes to one decimal point, you can do simple math from there to figure out ounces. If the item itself isn't heavy enough, just weigh yourself, then weigh yourself holding the item, subtract the difference and you have your item weight. (AWS makes a pretty awesome shipping scale that has 110lb capacity for less than $30 on Amazon, it paid for itself in more accurate shipping prices in two weeks for me.) Also, ALWAYS package yourself, as the shippers all charge astronomical prices for boxes and packing materials. I get everything but my bubble wrap and shipping labels for free. I get boxes from work, from parts stores, and re-use boxes from Summit, Amazon, and other Ebay users, as well as re-use any packing material I can and old newspaper. I buy my bubble wrap in bulk rolls. Another reason to package them yourself is because all three shippers charge by "dimensional weight" which is a combination of the item's actual weight and how much room it's going to take up on their trucks/planes. I frequently cut down boxes to smaller sizes, as a box that's 18x18x18 costs more than twice as much to ship as a box that's 18x18x9, and if that's all the room I need, I'm going to save the money!

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Meh,...I just buy new junk from Summit. They ship for free if the purchase is over 100.00, and for me it's always over 100.00.

If the stuff don't work, is wrong, or I just don't like it anymore, I send it back.

And the shipping is still free.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

If I can sell this stuff off and make enough to buy the edelbrock 7181 intake and another holley 650 with vacuum secondaries to make madmike happy then I will be cool with that.

The only people you have to worry about making happy are opec. They're probably gonna love you.

 

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need more advice. When it comes to air cleaners I am lost. seems that some of the k&n ones are like 120 and then they have other paper ones that are only like 30 bucks. plus what size and how much drop should I get. I am guessing something like a 14inch diameter by 3 inches tall should get pretty basic and get the job done nicely. I don't want to run to much of a drop because I heard it can hurt performance, so what would you guys recommend? Are the super expensive k&n ones worth it?

 

[MustangIIMatt]

I'd just get the cheapest 14" that will fit and looks good to you, then go to one of the parts stores and get the Spectre or K&N cotton filter for $30-50.

 

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little update. my wallet is about 850 lighter which includes a brand new holley 4150 650cfm vacuum secondary carb plus a ton of misc stuff.

i have alot of vacation days coming up so I will have some time to dedicate to this during the thanksgiving week.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

little update. my wallet is about 850 lighter which includes a brand new holley 4150 650cfm vacuum secondary carb plus a ton of misc stuff.

i have alot of vacation days coming up so I will have some time to dedicate to this during the thanksgiving week.

Ok, I'm curious. Why did you decide to buy that 650 after buying the 750 DP?

 

[adumb]

Ok, I'm curious. Why did you decide to buy that 650 after buying the 750 DP?

I have no problem adimitting i probably got a little to excited and bought a carb that is probably to big. the 650 vac one probably makes the most sense. once i get the car up and running i will probably try to 750 since i have it. my gut says the 650 is better suited like you said.

do i need to pay a stupid tax?

i bought a wideband also so it should help me get them dialed in. i dont see how the 650 will be eaiser to tune since they both have jets in the secondary circuit but no power valve, secondary squirter, or accelerator pump. hmmm maybe i just answered my own question.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I have no problem adimitting i probably got a little to excited and bought a carb that is probably to big. the 650 vac one probably makes the most sense. once i get the car up and running i will probably try to 750 since i have it. my gut says the 650 is better suited like you said.

do i need to pay a stupid tax?

i bought a wideband also so it should help me get them dialed in. i dont see how the 650 will be eaiser to tune since they both have jets in the secondary circuit but no power valve, secondary squirter, or accelerator pump. hmmm maybe i just answered my own question.

Make no mistake, a vacuum secondary carburetor is more involved when attempting to get a "perfect" tune. Getting the right diaphragm spring to get them to open as quickly as possible w/o opening to soon, or too late takes a bit of patience.

However.

The smaller carb will be closer to right straight out of the box. If it's close enough, it'll just " work." You may even elect not to dick with it.

 

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i bought the spring kit with the quick change out top. that should hopefully make it a bit easier.

 

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trying to do my homework so I can avoid any delays when I get to put this stuff together.

99 problems and my valve covers might be one.

I have the efi valve covers on there now. are these going to be usable after my carb swap? I am already guessing no. with that said do I just get some carb valve covers and put a pcv thing on one cover and a breather in the other? do I need to run any hoses to the intake or carb base plate?

these ones are local and I am going to try to pick them up.

Ford Racing Valve Covers

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

trying to do my homework so I can avoid any delays when I get to put this stuff together.

99 problems and my valve covers might be one.

I have the efi valve covers on there now. are these going to be usable after my carb swap? I am already guessing no. with that said do I just get some carb valve covers and put a pcv thing on one cover and a breather in the other? do I need to run any hoses to the intake or carb base plate?

these ones are local and I am going to try to pick them up.

Ford Racing Valve Covers

You can do it either way. You can leave the new Vc's as they come with the breathers, or put a grommet in one buy a pcv valve, and run a hose to the back of the carb where there is San inlet provided.

 

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it is about to get real this weekend

 

[adumb]

You can do it either way. You can leave the new Vc's as they come with the breathers, or put a grommet in one buy a pcv valve, and run a hose to the back of the carb where there is San inlet provided.

looks like i have one breather and the other side is a fill cap

 

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ran into my first road block and need some advice.

mechanical fuel pump issues.

here is what i have done. i blew through both lines to find out which fuel line was the one i needed in the tank because i didn't pay attention when i put the tank back in. one poured fuel on my floor and the other had some pressure behind it. i picked the one that was actually hooked up to the tank and didn't poor fuel on my floor.

next thing i did was put some more gas in my tank because drained alot of it when i dropped it to make the pickup

i then hooked up my mechanical pump to the fuel line and i put the outline into a bucket to see if i would get any fuel spitting out. nothing came out of the out line. i cranked the car a ton, enough to almost kill my battery( it is alright the battery wasn't exactly that strong to begin with.)

after a little thinking what i did was put the in line into my five gallon fuel jug i have for my lawnmower and other crap. i put the out into a bucket voila gas started to come out.

could the system be vapor locked or something. i took the mechanical fuel pump out of the tank put a little piece of 5/16 fue line how and connect that to a little piece of 5/16 pipe that went to the bottom of my tank. I have that line going through the stock efi fuel filter which i know is good because the car ran fine with it.

what am i missing?

 

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found the problem. i double checked my fuel pickup and it was alot shorter than i thought so it wasn't even picking up fuel. i thought i made it a tiny bit shorter so it wouldn't pick anything off the bottom of the tank because it doesn't have a filter on the end of it but i way over compensated. I put two gallons in the tank and it wouldn't even touch it. better to find out now than cruising around and running out of gas with over a quarter of a tank left.


i have the intake and carb on, throttle bracket, cable is hooked up, fuel lines are all hooked up, checked hook clearance with air cleaner on and it looked like i was good.

tommorow or sunday i need to secure the radiator and fill it back up. put thermostat housing back together and figure out which sensors go in what holes on the intake. anybody have a diagram for that? all i can think of is a temp sensory but there is like three or four holes in the intake to screw things into.

i do have a wideband, quick change spring kit, and my new valve covers to put on but i am going to wait and get it started first.

i will upload some pics tommorow.

 

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trying to figure out how to work in my heater tube. I can't reuse it because the threads don't look to healthy on the 1/2 npt fitting. I could probably thread it in but it might be the last time i thread something into that hole and i don't really want to risk it.

I have three options.

1 get a new heater tube for 70 bucks
2 replace the heater tube with just heater hose. I will have to get a fitting for the intake that will accept 1/2npt and then 3/4 hose barb. I have found one on summit but they are 27 bucks. plus i would need to find a restrictor thing to put in the hose so i don't blow out my heater core.
3. Forget about the heat for now and just get a 1/2npt and just plug that hole and then put a plug or cap on the water pump for now.

I am really leaning towards number three for now just to get the car rolling. Is there anything wrong with that idea? I am pretty sure i will still have coolant flowing properly right?