mustang2k00 said:
I don't know a whole lot about cams, well not much at all. All I do know is that getting a higher performance cam means more horses in the engine. Could you explain what specs there are to choose from and what is normally ordered? My stang is a daily driver but I'm always looking to get more power. If you know any good websites that explains what to look for in a cam, that would be great.
I'm also looking at the roller rockers. The only thing I don't get is what is the performance difference between a 1.8 and a 1.73?
This is gunna be alot of explaining, so i'll try to make the jist of it
*sigh*...
Lets start with the roller rockers.
1.73 - 1.80 - 1.90 - etc. Is the ratio of the roller rocker. The ratiohas to do with the different length of the "arm" of the roller rocker. The longer the arm, the more room the cam shaft will have to rotate, causeing it to have a bigger rotation and giveing you more power. 1.73 is the factory ratio for the V6 on it's roller rockers, 1.80 will be a good step-up. You can get after market roller rockers with a 1.73 ratio and they'll still be better than the factory ones because they'll be lighter & stronger so even aftermarket factory ratio roller rockers can give you some HP. 1.80 and higher roller rockers will give you better HP than factory ratio cause there arms will be longer which will let your cam shaft rotate a little more, plus there still lighter and stronger than factory ones. There's alot more to it but i'm trying to keep all of this short, if I can find agood explanation on a web site i'll PM it to you.
Heres where it gets a little more technical, camshafts
Each lobe (intake & exhaust) is listed by its duration in crank degrees at .050" (which is default/factory) lift and by its valve lift with both 1.73 and 1.8 rocker arms. For example, when you see cams listed as "215* [.576/.599]" that'll refer to a lobe with 215* duration and .576" lift with 1.73 and .599" lift with 1.8 roller rockers. (see how the 1.80 roller rockers have a bigger lift)
Lobe separation, with the durations of the intake/exhaust lobe, determine how much valve overlap you will have. Meaning a 108*
LCA (lobe seperation) will be pretty good for a naturally aspirated setup with bolt-ons such as exhaust, intake, MAF, headers, simple bolt on parts. 110* is good for a more heavily modded N/A like full exhaust, and ported everything and supercharger applications. 112+* is going to be more for dedicated supercharger & turbo set-ups
What is your goal with the car? Do you want to have a supercharger in the near future or are you going to keep it N/A and use it for a daily driver?
If you plan on keeping it a daily driver with a few modds like cat-back exhaust, pulleys, cold air intake & headers this set-up should be perfect
Intake - 208* lobe duration (.545/.567) valve lift. The 1.80 is .567
Exhaust - 207* lobe duration (.505/.526) valve lift. the 1.80 is .526
with a lobe seperation of 108*
That should be a good set-up for a a light to medium modded daily driver.
I ordered one form the guy at
www.rpm-mustangs.com about 4 months ago and this is the set-up I ordered
Intake - 208* (.567)
Exhaust - 209* (.556)
108* lobe seperation
i'm still waiting on it, 'cause he's a little backed up with orders and moving his bussiness and such. I already have 1.80 r'rs and it works pretty good and sounds pretty good
Also with the bigger lobes in the cam you'll have a more aggressive sound. When you hear those classic muscle cars and even the newer ones when there idleing and it has a very loud gurgleing sound, thats the cam shaft, those bigger lobes is what causes that sound... along with some other engine modds but the cam is pretty much the main reason