e303 cam w/ stock heads?

[95snoozer]

Never read about anyone saying it was the reason. I just remember it being not 94-95 block stock so relax you've done well with E7's.

Anyways, the author of this post lives two doors down from me. His question was about putting an E cam on stock heads right now. Not a debate as to whether the E cam is the best cam. My reason is merely why take it apart twice (cam then heads) when it can be done in one shot. I think we can all agree that the car would pull harder up top with the cam change. Personally I would wait but it's not up to me.

thats not why you mentioned it. You and I know that.

but as with my post, I say dont do an e cam on stock heads,

or any cam unless its a better split design with ported heads. I have lots of friends that went higgh 11s on ported E7s with a good cam. theses are in fox bodies, so that is good for mid 12s in a 95.

 

[stang_gt_1994]

I never know anything about your d&d bottom end. That is kinda strange that I never saw you mention it. I guess people keep what mods they done to thare car top secret, explains your traps.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

thats not why you mentioned it. You and I know that.

Busted, you got me.

 

[yellow1995Cobra]

I never know anything about your d&d bottom end. That is kinda strange that I never saw you mention it. I guess people keep what mods they done to thare car top secret, explains your traps.

He has mentioned it numerous times.

 

[95snoozer]

I never know anything about your d&d bottom end. That is kinda strange that I never saw you mention it. I guess people keep what mods they done to thare car top secret, explains your traps.

how the hell does that explain traps!!!!??

I have posted my build sheet many times that has the tolrances of the block.

that doesnt explain my traps its not a horsepower booster and if you think it does, you are ignorant.

I can drive, and my car is light because I worked it down to where it is.

END OF STORY

p.s. my motor has 25k of racing and long trips to go race every week. when I am not racing, I baby it to try to balance out all the abuse.

 

[Matts89LX5.0]

E cam doesn't make power or if it does, very little, after 4500 RPMs according to friends I've talken to that have had their cars dynoed.

Matt

 

[88stangmangt]

................................

 

[95snoozer]

E cam doesn't make power or if it does, very little, after 4500 RPMs according to friends I've talken to that have had their cars dynoed.

Matt

 

[Joes95GT]

Any car is going to make power if it has a good enough head on it. The arguement that "my car went XX.XX @ 1XX with an E-cam, so it can't be that good," doesn't hold water. I can guarantee you that your car will run harder with a split pattern cam in it - PERIOD. That, in my book, makes the E-cam garbage. The best part about the E-cam is the 110 LSA, which can also be a downfall for a daily driven 94-95.

Snoozer's car runs the times that it does because his car is light and he can drive. There still is still plenty left in the car, and I'm sure he'd admit that. Even if his tolerances were tight and at a "race spec," it wouldn't make a difference. He doesn't turn the RPM or have the power output to actually see a difference in tight clearances.

Joe

 

[95snoozer]

yeah... I would much rather have a nice split cam.....

i am changing to a 112 lsa 218/226 .544/.544 this summer

If you had a head with a 80%+ i/e ratio then the single pattern cam would work. but the ecam just is notorious for its poor torque production.

 

[Joes95GT]

i am changing to a 112 lsa 218/226 .544/.544 this summer

Hitting up AFM are ya?

Joe

 

[95snoozer]

as soon as my second comission check comes.

I finally got a job! no more poor college student only getting faster by removing hidden weight.

But i still have 50 pounds to take out

 

[BlueDevil95]

how the hell does that explain traps!!!!??

I have posted my build sheet many times that has the tolrances of the block.

that doesnt explain my traps its not a horsepower booster and if you think it does, you are ignorant.

I can drive, and my car is light because I worked it down to where it is.

END OF STORY

p.s. my motor has 25k of racing and long trips to go race every week. when I am not racing, I baby it to try to balance out all the abuse.

not to butt in, but i'm curious about what your car weighs and how you got it there. i'm not doubting you at all, but i'm trying to shave a few pounds off my pig and i saw you mention your car was pretty light. i have done the rear seat delete kit from accp, yanked dogbone, no emissions equipment and the obvious motor and suspension pieces to lose some weight.

 

[95snoozer]

it should mostly be in the sig

no smog
orh
gt40 intake
rear seat delete
no spare or jack
no sway bar
no strut tower brace.
no dog bone
no rear trunk carpet or board
1 horn
no windshield wiper resevoir (its the fluid that actually weighs anything.)
a few metal brackets here and there that weigh less than a pound.

GTS features
no spoiler
no cruise control
no ABS

i have the added weight of power leather seats

at times, I had floor matts out and windshield wipers. 5 pounds. but not when I ran 12.95.

I run about 1-2 gallons of gas at the track.

my 12.95 came at my heaviest raceweight in forever. 3265

I am 160-165, 5'8

I have been as low as 3215 with driver.

I have a thread here where I listed almost everything you can do and its exact weight.

 

[95snoozer]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4151879#post4151879

 

[BlueDevil95]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4151879#post4151879

thanks!!