Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

1697491540001.png


No, it's not worth it going to E85.

I takes roughly 1/3 more E85 to do the same work as gas. So this becomes $3.99-$5.32 to go approximately the same distance. New parts (tank, injectors, pump), and a way to tune it all.

If you have 89 around you, that's all you really need unless you're running boost (I don't recall if this was a turbo car). It was designed for 87 but that's pushing it IMO.
thanks! and yes, im swapping a turbo motor into the n/a car
 
  • Sponsors (?)


The one on the back of the rail, next to the nipple, is the fuel dampner. Leave that alone. The one on the front of the rail, with the 3 bolt base and a hose coming out of the top, is your fuel pressure regulator.
As far as E85, I don't know enough about it. Others, I'm sure are more qualified to answer. I only run Supreme in the roadster but then I only have an 11 gallon gas tank. Remember, even with twice the HP as your NA 2.3, you'll still get around 30 mpg. The best of both worlds!

I type slow......Noobz beat me to it! Listen to him....he knows his stuff.
sweet then, and i was a little worried about that, thanks for clearing that up!
 
1. Guys, I got an update for ya! I shimmed my head, and finished all the cam work. so, the head is DONE I just gotta put a cam seal in and bolt it on the block. I haven't gotten to my rings yet, still need to verify the gap and make sure I did it right I'm getting a weird tight spot at top and bottom dead center, and I find it fishy that I didn't have to file any rings. so figure since I gotta replace my head bolts and gasket since I took the head off might as well verify.

2. also, what do you guys think of the color? its supposed to be the darker ford blue, I'm going to sand the raised lettering and give it a clear coat and I was thinking leave the block and head black so I dont over do the blue. Annnd I polished/ cleaned the stock manifold as best as I could, its pretty much silver again, I got some more work to do though.

3. I got the LA3 ECU, stage 1 T3 turbo from Big R, and a Gnari exhaust manifold that chip recommended. (woulda bought the one he's about to start selling, but we already figured the one I just bought would be best for trying to go through a state ref) and as far as accessories and intercoolers, I'm just going to carry all the lil things from the NA motor over to this guy and keep it simple! and for intercoolers..... I'm going to make a bracket that allows me to bolt it right in front of my air conditioning condenser, I have space up there so might as well use it specially since I'm learning how to fabricate brackets n stuff at my school.

4. bonus! I was watching some old advertisements for Subaru's and the Mitsubishi lancer Evolutions's and saw that one of the cars had an intercooler sprayer.... I'm thinking for :poo:s n giggles, I make myself an intercooler sprayer out of a windshield wiper sprayer or somthing maybe it will help get the air a bit more dense and maaaybe make a lil more power on a hot day... what do you think? dumb idea? or somthing that may actually make me a lil bit quicker?
20230916_220707.jpg


20231020_235345.jpg
 
2. also, what do you guys think of the color? its supposed to be the darker ford blue, I'm going to sand the raised lettering and give it a clear coat and I was thinking leave the block and head black so I dont over do the blue. Annnd I polished/ cleaned the stock manifold as best as I could, its pretty much silver again, I got some more work to do though.
Yea, that blue doesn't look very dark.... may just be the pic tho. Does it look darker in person? Even so, I like it. And really I like your plan for the raised vc lettering. The block looks fine black. I think all that.... the black, blue and silver.... will make for a sharp looking, contrasting color combo. :nice:

Now, what about those pulleys? Any plan to freshen up their paint? They don't fit in with the rest of the pretty.
 
You put rings in there? You didn't bore it out, did you? If not, with 300k the cylinders are guaranteed to be out of round and the new rings probably won't seal. I'd check with Chip and see what his thoughts are on that.
As far as color combo, I'm not a fan of black blocks cuz it's harder to see any leaks that might pop up. But, to each his own. Paint the manifold with AlumaBlast. It's available at AutoZone. Here's a pic of my valve cover. It's powdercoated but gives you an idea of what yours will look like with the letters sanded off and clearcoated.........

MadAddervalvecover.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Yea, that blue doesn't look very dark.... may just be the pic tho. Does it look darker in person? Even so, I like it. And really I like your plan for the raised vc lettering. The block looks fine black. I think all that.... the black, blue and silver.... will make for a sharp looking, contrasting color combo. :nice:

Now, what about those pulleys? Any plan to freshen up their paint? They don't fit in with the rest of the pretty.
yes! im gonna clean the water pump pulley up, give it a new coat of black, and the cam gear i was thinking of painting silver so it matches the intake and turbo. and as far as color, its slightly more dark in person, but definitely darker than the light ford blue
 
You put rings in there? You didn't bore it out, did you? If not, with 300k the cylinders are guaranteed to be out of round and the new rings probably won't seal. I'd check with Chip and see what his thoughts are on that.
As far as color combo, I'm not a fan of black blocks cuz it's harder to see any leaks that might pop up. But, to each his own. Paint the manifold with AlumaBlast. It's available at AutoZone. Here's a pic of my valve cover. It's powdercoated but gives you an idea of what yours will look like with the letters sanded off and clearcoated.........

MadAddervalvecover.jpg
well, I had the cylinders honed, not bored and i just bought stock replacement rings because that's what was recommended by the machine shop

also, i love what you did with the ford emblem, the blue makes it pop, and as far as the block goes, I wanted to do a dark ford blue, but i couldn't find the right color and ended up with this lighter blue, and figured it would end up lookin a little weak, so to save time im leaving it black with blue accents.
 
TURBO CAME IN THE MAIL!!!!!!! now i got both turbo, and exhaust manifold! Im absolutely pumped!!!! This weekend im gonna put it all together! I just gotta wait for my new head gasket and head bolts to come im the mail!

Heres a lil comparison of the turbos! I got the old IHI turbo and the shiny guy is the big R stage 1 turbo! I didnt go with stage 2 or 3 because he states it takes longer to spool and spools at higher rpm, i dont drive that way so i went with the stage one since its a bit more for evreything and makes boost throughout more of the "rev range" it also should compliment my cam a bit better!
 

Attachments

  • 20231031_174609.jpg
    20231031_174609.jpg
    642.9 KB · Views: 35
  • 20231031_174613.jpg
    20231031_174613.jpg
    632.2 KB · Views: 35
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
ALSO!

Anyone have a recomended head gasket? I was just going to use a blue felpro gasket,

My block deck is perfectly smooth, no ridges, and my cylinder head has some slight ridges in it. Like they sent it in the machine too fast. I know you want somthing for the head gasket to bite into, so what do you guys recomend? Felpro gasket? Or somthin else? I have a buddy who recommend a quark gasket but i figured it wouldnt hold up because of how hot these engines run

Heres the gasket i was planning to buy
Let me know if theres somthing better!


Also the folks at Gnari told me not to run and exhaust manifold gasket and just use the spray on copper stuff since the gaskets typically burn up and cause exhaust leaks.
 
The FelPro 8993 is the one to use. It's all I've ever used and guys over at TurboFord have been using it for decades. Also, the guys at Gnari are right. Follow their advice. I have an older Bob's log on my motor. Before I installed it, I took it to the machine shop and had it milled flat. Spayed it with copper gasket sealer and have never had an issue. Your Gnari piece is new so it should be completely flat. You're good to go!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
The FelPro 8993 is the one to use. It's all I've ever used and guys over at TurboFord have been using it for decades. Also, the guys at Gnari are right. Follow their advice. I have an older Bob's log on my motor. Before I installed it, I took it to the machine shop and had it milled flat. Spayed it with copper gasket sealer and have never had an issue. Your Gnari piece is new so it should be completely flat. You're good to go!
Sick! Well, me and my dad just painted my motor tonight, and i got a gasket and head bolts at my local parts store, so tomarrow ill be buttoning it all up! And yea... im about 75% sure my exhaust deck is flat, iffy on that machine shops quality. I guess its extra copper spray and some quality prep work!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Hey guys I'm at the point where I'm installing the stuff that goes under the intake manifold I have all the original turbo 2.3 Parts but I don't know what they are for example this piece it goes on to where the oil filter would go and it looks as if it is a device that pumps coolant around the oil filter housing am I correct?
 

Attachments

  • 20231111_221003.jpg
    20231111_221003.jpg
    675.6 KB · Views: 22
  • 20231111_220948.jpg
    20231111_220948.jpg
    1,000.1 KB · Views: 22
  • 20231111_220936.jpg
    20231111_220936.jpg
    737 KB · Views: 24
The Ford distributor is really hard to beat. More issues with aftermarket than stock.

If I ever have the loose change I will buy an MSD EFI unit and swap over the Ford electronics out of my stockish one. A few have done this and the reason is the billet body and bearings in the MSD vs the cast body and bushings in the OEM unit. Only need to worry about that if you are spinning high rpm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
The Ford distributor is really hard to beat. More issues with aftermarket than stock.

If I ever have the loose change I will buy an MSD EFI unit and swap over the Ford electronics out of my stockish one. A few have done this and the reason is the billet body and bearings in the MSD vs the cast body and bushings in the OEM unit. Only need to worry about that if you are spinning high rpm.
I mean, I don't plan on surpassing OEM RPM range so I probably won't benefit from it right? What about upgraded coils would that help?
 
The coils are pretty damn robust as well. I had an MSD coil fail on me on the way to a dyno run and had to get a replacement coil from the local parts store (was a Standard Blue Streak) and it ran just fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user