Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Well that stinks. Maybe it will fit fine like the other one did in the '95. I originally went with the SVE unit in the '95 because I kept reading all the reviews of a/m radiators that leaked. The SVE unit was one that no one complained about as far as leaking. It seems like its a spin of the wheel with radiators.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I've seen and read where they sit too low and guys had to put extra rubber spacers on the bottom to bring them up. Personally, I am not a fan of "house brand" parts like SVE, which are repacked Granatelli parts . Don't know what you spent, but I would look at Champion, Griffin, and Northern. All USA made, all metal. and welded not epoxied. Not trying to talk you out of anything.
No worries. I appreciate the feedback! I spent about $180ish for their 3 core aluminum. I ordered it last night. It's good to know some alternatives though. I kept hearing horror stories about Mishimoto.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
same here- that they leak after 6 months or so.. @TOOLOW91 Jeff has one in his car and is quite happy though, so who knows. Probably like everything else luck of the draw.. Be careful on 3 rows as they make it harder for the fan to pull CFM. 2 rows are normally more than enough up to 350-400hp.
Good point. If I had known before hand I would've gone with a 2 core Champion. I know now.
I've had the Mishi for 2 years already now with no issue . That's the first I've heard of horror stories honestly.
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I'm always glad to hear of something NOT breaking on other guy's cars. No one likes car problems.
Me too. It sucks being a cat chasing your tail
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Agreed! I've been that for over a year now. Considering how bad this car was when I first got it (cf. page 1), its been appropriate.
Oh I'm a silent follower in this thread I have watched it. I like seeing progress the car has definitely come along .
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Yes, I like that idea. I already had sound deadening material for those doors from LMR.com. It's probably not the same, but it did help. I plan on using something similar to Dynamat when I R&R the headliner. I'm also thinking about pulling the carpet and doing the floor pan underneath the seats. If not there, then the trunk pan.
Dynamat makes a huge difference im planning on the trunk, floor pan, roof, anywhere I can lay it down
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I've been reading that it makes a lot of difference in noise reduction. Do you know if heat reduction is noticeable too?
Yes it does make a difference as well if that doesn't work for u. Look at this product
http://m.lizardskin.com
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One year works great, lifetime warranty and really good customer service from my experience.
Dual fans and rad....
Update: K&N, Oiling, and the Surge of non-power
As I was about to close my hood the other day and weld it shut I was driving the old notch from one parking spot to the other when it choked and died. I thought, "surely this is a fluke." So, I attempted to start the car up. It started up and promptly died. I started it again, it had horrible idle surge (yes, already did the 10 pin fix), then died yet again. Then, I started it up one last time. It surged for a bit then leveled out.
As I took it out to do some errands I noticed that it was running sluggish. Furthermore, if I put the A/C on it ran really sluggish, like Cheby sluggish. I couldn't figure it out, until this morning.
A few days ago I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N filter. After the cleaning I let the filter dry in direct sun light for a few hours. I did the same after oiling only longer. Since I could not think of any other issues I started to suspect that maybe the MAF elements got a bit of fly-back oil on them.
Thus, I got my handy torx 20H bit, removed the MAF sensor, and sprayed the crap out of it with MAF cleaner. The sensor was left to dry for a few minutes, then placed back into the car. I started the car, took it out for a test drive, and it said, "Thank you," in car speak -which is more acceleration, more throttle response, and more cause 5.0 is back.
Even if you let a K&N re-oiled filter bake in the SoCal sun for hours that does not mean it is harmless to your MAF. I suggest following the instructions on the MAF cleaner bottle "Clean your mass air flow sensor every time you change your air filter," or in the K&N's case; every time you re-oil your filter. I hope this helps someone else.
As I was about to close my hood the other day and weld it shut I was driving the old notch from one parking spot to the other when it choked and died. I thought, "surely this is a fluke." So, I attempted to start the car up. It started up and promptly died. I started it again, it had horrible idle surge (yes, already did the 10 pin fix), then died yet again. Then, I started it up one last time. It surged for a bit then leveled out.
As I took it out to do some errands I noticed that it was running sluggish. Furthermore, if I put the A/C on it ran really sluggish, like Cheby sluggish. I couldn't figure it out, until this morning.
A few days ago I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N filter. After the cleaning I let the filter dry in direct sun light for a few hours. I did the same after oiling only longer. Since I could not think of any other issues I started to suspect that maybe the MAF elements got a bit of fly-back oil on them.
Thus, I got my handy torx 20H bit, removed the MAF sensor, and sprayed the crap out of it with MAF cleaner. The sensor was left to dry for a few minutes, then placed back into the car. I started the car, took it out for a test drive, and it said, "Thank you," in car speak -which is more acceleration, more throttle response, and more cause 5.0 is back.
Even if you let a K&N re-oiled filter bake in the SoCal sun for hours that does not mean it is harmless to your MAF. I suggest following the instructions on the MAF cleaner bottle "Clean your mass air flow sensor every time you change your air filter," or in the K&N's case; every time you re-oil your filter. I hope this helps someone else.
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