You should see something along those lines. If you can get a ported intake and complete heads for 600$ it isn't a terrible price. Just not a great power producer(obviously not your biggest concern).
Fox New To The Forum And Curious!
- Thread starter Btrainfiveoh
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I'm taking off my intake,TB, MAF and shorty headers with h pipe if you're interested I will sell cheap but you'd have to cover shipping. You can pm me if you are?
You can run 12's without suspension work, full weight, with the stock motor/intakes. It'll take some gear, exhaust and tires but it can be done. I've done it in the desert with 2600' d/a and I'm no Michael Washington.
With mildly ported E7's (~190cfm), ported stock intakes (TMoss) and a hydro roller cam (stock lifters) full exhaust and 65mmTB I made 292rwhp and /325rwtq. It was not an E-303, it was a custom cam (Buddy Rawls) that drove great and sounded nasty.
I would strongly advise you to stop considering the E-303, it's not the direction to go with factory iron heads (E7's, GT40's, P's, 289hipo's etc.).
With mildly ported E7's (~190cfm), ported stock intakes (TMoss) and a hydro roller cam (stock lifters) full exhaust and 65mmTB I made 292rwhp and /325rwtq. It was not an E-303, it was a custom cam (Buddy Rawls) that drove great and sounded nasty.
I would strongly advise you to stop considering the E-303, it's not the direction to go with factory iron heads (E7's, GT40's, P's, 289hipo's etc.).
- Jul 25, 2015
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That's VERY impressive numbers... So with that custom cam, did you need to upgrade/change any other parts? Pushrods, rocker arms, lifters, etc? I'm assuming valve springs were changed?(which I'll be doing regardless)...
And I can get something like that from google searching buddy Rawls?
Not to say it's the end all be all for setups. But for what it is my combo is very healthy. Ported gt40 with 2.02 1.6 valves ported cobra intake 1.7rr and e303. Made enough power the stock fuel pump couldn't keep up. On 275 45 17 nitto 555, it will just blitz the tires at the track launching at 2k. Shifting at 6k,
- Jul 25, 2015
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Another curious question since "blitzing the tires" came up haha!
How are people running 4.10's and getting anywhere off the line?
I have factory 3.08 gears, and 245/50 r16's (ponys) ... Yes I know the tires aren't amazing but, I have no problem lighting them up with minimal work done to the car. If I had close to 250-300 whp like a lot of the guys do, and had something like 4.10's which many people say is an amazing gear... I think 1st would be pretty useless off the line unless you had some amazing rubber. That's why I think I'm pretty dead set on something like 3.55's in the future... That and I do travel highway driving and would like to stay around 2-2200 at 60-70 mph
How are people running 4.10's and getting anywhere off the line?
I have factory 3.08 gears, and 245/50 r16's (ponys) ... Yes I know the tires aren't amazing but, I have no problem lighting them up with minimal work done to the car. If I had close to 250-300 whp like a lot of the guys do, and had something like 4.10's which many people say is an amazing gear... I think 1st would be pretty useless off the line unless you had some amazing rubber. That's why I think I'm pretty dead set on something like 3.55's in the future... That and I do travel highway driving and would like to stay around 2-2200 at 60-70 mph
Not sure I run a t5 with 373 gears. Any aggressive driving in first and second gives wheel spin. Nitto 555 is a good tire but not amazingly sticky. A drag radial will make a big difference. Since I have a convertible full weight I don't run them, less chance of breaking something.
Btrain,
Buddy Rawls is pretty active on another popular forum (corral.net), I would start by sending him a private message there.
Other parts, I did use ford/crane 1.6 roller rocker arms but the stock ones would have been fine, stock lifters and, I don't remember on push rods but pretty sure they too were stock. I did use matching valve springs/retainers.
Gears and launching...
Need to consider wheel speed. While spinning tires with 4.10's will be easier than with 3.08's you need to realize that wheel speed with the 4.10's will be much less. When the 3.08's break traction they will want to spin to a higher speed. This makes for less traction and is tougher to recover from. On street tires the 4.10's will also have you feathering the clutch much less to keep rev's up on initial launch. For guys that just mash the gas and hope for the best 2.73's and 3.08's make sense so long as they do not make enough power to spin them hard... but if you are willing to learn the limits and roll the throttle the deeper gears will work better. On the street I can obliterate my 255/50-16 BFG drag radials all through 1st, 2nd and a great deal of 3rd if I want to, or I can leave and just have them scratch/chirp with slight throttle control. At my power level (low) I'm full throttle in about 10 feet out in 1st and only need a split second rolling the throttle from at 75-80% to fully in the rug going into 2nd and 3rd to no spin. At the track with my new combo I'm having a real hard time finding the line between spinning and bogging with my current 410's, I know when I move to 4.56's (for my combo, not saying 4.56's make sense for everyone) things will be much more consistent.
Buddy Rawls is pretty active on another popular forum (corral.net), I would start by sending him a private message there.
Other parts, I did use ford/crane 1.6 roller rocker arms but the stock ones would have been fine, stock lifters and, I don't remember on push rods but pretty sure they too were stock. I did use matching valve springs/retainers.
Gears and launching...
Need to consider wheel speed. While spinning tires with 4.10's will be easier than with 3.08's you need to realize that wheel speed with the 4.10's will be much less. When the 3.08's break traction they will want to spin to a higher speed. This makes for less traction and is tougher to recover from. On street tires the 4.10's will also have you feathering the clutch much less to keep rev's up on initial launch. For guys that just mash the gas and hope for the best 2.73's and 3.08's make sense so long as they do not make enough power to spin them hard... but if you are willing to learn the limits and roll the throttle the deeper gears will work better. On the street I can obliterate my 255/50-16 BFG drag radials all through 1st, 2nd and a great deal of 3rd if I want to, or I can leave and just have them scratch/chirp with slight throttle control. At my power level (low) I'm full throttle in about 10 feet out in 1st and only need a split second rolling the throttle from at 75-80% to fully in the rug going into 2nd and 3rd to no spin. At the track with my new combo I'm having a real hard time finding the line between spinning and bogging with my current 410's, I know when I move to 4.56's (for my combo, not saying 4.56's make sense for everyone) things will be much more consistent.
- Jul 25, 2015
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Okay, thanks for breaking it down. Always down for learning more and gaining knowledge. I'll give him a message on the other forum and see what he says.
Appreciate it!
I 100% respect what you have always been able to accomplish with your car. But I also think you fall into the exception to the rule category. Not very many people have done what you stated above. Also I think someone really really needs to know wtf they are doing porting stock heads to get them to flow descently(and still fall short of the better aluminums of today). I know you are posting your experience and it is good info but to me somewhat misleading. No offense.
none taken, thanks, and I agree.
I'm sure if Btrain talks to a custom cam guru they will come to a consensus on whether the above route is achievable given his drivability/performance expectations and budget. But when on a budget, accepting moderate performance, and wanting a lumpy cam, the stock heads, or slightly worked stock heads can fill the requirements. It's not going to drive like a Corolla, but a lumpy cam usually doesn't.
My first combo (~290hp) was nothing special outside the cam.
I'm sure if Btrain talks to a custom cam guru they will come to a consensus on whether the above route is achievable given his drivability/performance expectations and budget. But when on a budget, accepting moderate performance, and wanting a lumpy cam, the stock heads, or slightly worked stock heads can fill the requirements. It's not going to drive like a Corolla, but a lumpy cam usually doesn't.
My first combo (~290hp) was nothing special outside the cam.
- Jul 25, 2015
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I agree that aluminum heads will give more gains than ported e7's... But that's obvious. I'm not looking to make crazy power, the guy I know locally who ports heads has done quite a few e7's before. The mild port job he does(will do for about $200) nets about 20-25 hp. Which in my case will be enough(for the money spent) ... With the supporting mods I do, if I can get around the 250whp mark and with 3.55 gears i think I'll be plenty happy with it. I've been in others stangs, built making north of 300 hp with aluminum heads etc etc. Obviously they're quick and super fun, but for the budget I want to spend on this one, I think I'll be happy with even 250 and gears.
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