I have a 1992 5.0 LX automatic with a leaking radiator. The car is new to me, so I don't know the entire service history, however the history I do have indicates it was extremely well maintained. I've been doing some research, and this looks like a relatively easy job I can tackle myself, however I have some questions before I get started that a search doesn't find answers to in the archives. The car is 100% stock, and so I'd like as stock a looking radiator as possible. That's also why I'm not interested in an aftermarket trans cooler.
1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?
2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.
3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?
4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?
5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?
Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.
1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?
2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.
3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?
4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?
5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?
Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.