Engine Raising compression on a relatively stock 302

keel

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
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Seattle, Wa
I'm currently building a mild street engine where I would like to re-use as many stock components as possible. I would like to bump up the stock compression ratio of about 9:1 to somewhere around 10:1 or 10.5:1, while using GT40 heads, stock rods, and stock crank. I also plan to bore out the cylinders, so pistons would need to be available in over bored dimensions, probably a 4.030" bore.

My questions are, can I safely run a compression ratio in that ballpark on 93 octane pump gas, and if so, what piston can I use that will accomplish this compression ratio? (While not breaking the bank too badly.) I also would like to know if decking the block and/or heads would need to be done to reach my goal, and if so, by how much.

Also, I will be using a TFS1 camshaft with stock rockers, so piston to valve clearance shouldn't be that much of an issue but it might be something to consider.
 
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So you really should be asking am engine builder these questions as to what pistons will be needed and whether or not the block will need to be decked and the heads milled. I ran 11:1 on 93 octane all day long on my old 306's. Pistons were flat tops with valve reliefs, block was decked, and heads were milled for compression and to get them perfectly flat. Head gaskets play a role in compression ratio as they come in different thicknesses so be aware of that. Some builders like the piston to sit down in the hole a little bit for quench (usually around 0.040" or so) and that will vary builder to builder.

As far as piston to valve clearance you will need to clay the motor to be 100% sure on that but that cam is pretty mild and with flat tops that have reliefs you will most likely have a lot of room. For example the Comp cam I was running was in the 0.533" lift range on the last 306 and there was plenty of room with the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and they were milled.

If you are building the motor yourself then good luck and enjoy the process.
 
I am building the motor myself, I'm looking forward to it :). Glad to hear that I won't need a domed piston to make decent compression gains. How much performance did you gain from raising the compression to 11:1?
 
Hard to say. Car was a 4 cylinder to begin with but the best I got out of the last 306 was right at 318 rwhp. That motor had an 80mm mass air meter, 70mm throttle body, Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper and lower (port matched to the heads), Edelbrock Performer RPM heads (mild port job), and 42 lb/hr injectors. Previous motor ran out of injector with the 24's and my buddy had a set of 42 lb/hr injectors off of a Lightning and the price was right.

I would suggest you getting a minimum of 30 lb/hr injectors and if you are not going to tune it a quality MAF (Pro-M or the like) calibrated to the injectors. Fuel system will need help if it is stock so minimum 190 lph pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Some will say you don't need and adjustable FPR but we had to turn the pressure up on my car to get enough fuel for the 331 and that is with a 255 lph pump. Anyhow, good luck and you should really look into a custom cam as that TFS1 may be leaving some on the table. If you already have it then roll with it but if not I would contact FTI and get a custom ground cam. Ed is really good at getting parts to work with each other. If he tells you to change the valve springs you should listen to him.

 
That is a reasonable goal with that combo for sure. I would still go with 30 lb/hr injectors and a larger MAF as the stock MAF and injectors will be maxing out at that level. 24's would work but 30's leave you room to grow if you change the cam. I literally ran out of injector with the 24's at 270ish rwhp. Swapped out to an 80mm MAF and 42 lb/hr injectors and it went up to high 280's and the torque curve fattened up. Changed cams (FTI custom) and that is when it hit 318 rwhp.
 
270rwhp and you ran out injector with 24's?
I've seen cars make 290rwhp with 19's no problem.
Pretty much no gt40 iron NA iron headed setup needs anything more than 19's.
I'd run the stock 19's and a 75mm pro m and be done with it.
You can run 30's past 350rwhp all motor.

I find the "room to grow" part to be pointless.
Injectors are cheap/easy to install and you can buy and sell meters for the same price you purchase them used for.

This setup is simple and honestly it should stay that way.
 
Not sure what to tell you but the 24’s ran out. I do not push injector duty past 85% so factor that in. When you get up past 90% duty tuning the lower rpm range can be a pain in the rear.

Injectors are relatively inexpensive in regards to a build but why do it twice when you can install bigger injectors now (24 thru 42 are about the same price) and not have to mess with them again?
 
Not sure what to tell you but the 24’s ran out. I do not push injector duty past 85% so factor that in. When you get up past 90% duty tuning the lower rpm range can be a pain in the rear.

Injectors are relatively inexpensive in regards to a build but why do it twice when you can install bigger injectors now (24 thru 42 are about the same price) and not have to mess with them again?
Guys have run tfs top end kits with 19's and been fine.

If i'm not mistaken when you use the wrong size injector you then need to tune for it correct? That costs money for tuning equipment and or the tune, all to run gt40 iron heads? Doesn't seem like the best use of funds.
 
Just order the Pro-M for larger injectors and no time required.

Again, not wanting to get into a pissing match. Just providing detail on what worked on my combo and I was in the shop on the dyno run and saw the wide band going lean above 5500. Swapped to a 2000 GT MAF and 42’s and made more power, wasn’t lean anymore, and it idled very well.
 
Here’s a few thoughts on the above posts I hope might be helpful to someone.

Original poster wants a target compression ratio for his 306 inch small block with GT40 heads, TFS-1 cam, and a ~250 rwhp goal.

Shouldn’t have to turn that motor much past 5500 rpm to reach the HP goal. The selection of GT-40 heads and TFS-1 cam is a decent start. A little bowl clean-up work on those heads would certainly help but you should get fairly close without it. You WILL need a better intake manifold, throttle body, and mass air meter to create a matched combo with those heads. Cheapest route for a well-matched intake is from a 90’s 5.0L Explorer. The stock, 5.0L HO intake is particularly restrictive.

One full point of compression (example, 9.0 – 10.0 to 1) will net you ~3% HP increase, assuming you can stay out of detonation. It helps, it’s cheap when building anyway, but it doesn’t pay to push the boundary too far on a street car. Too many variables in daily operation come back to bite you and a street engine operates more under low rpm loads where detonation is most likely.

When we measure the ratio of cylinder volume between BDC and TDC we are calculating static compression. In a vacuum (reverse pun), this tells us too little about the engine’s ability to stay out of detonation on a particular octane fuel.

It is the dynamic or “running” compression ratio that matters. The dynamic ratio will be significantly lower than static and is most dependent on cam timing. No actual compression begins building in the cylinder until both valves are shut (disregarding acoustic supercharging, but you get the idea). Dynamic compression is influenced to a lesser degree by rod length, which determines where the piston is in the bore relative to cam timing everywhere except at TDC and BDC.

Bottom line with compression, the longer your valve timing events (and more overlap) the lower the actual or dynamic compression ratio and so the higher static compression you can run. With the TFS-1 cam on pump gas I’d start getting pretty nervous at anything above 10 to 1. You “might” get away with a bit closer to 10.5 to 1, but the potential miseries that can create are not worth the ~1% HP gain in a street car, IMO. Conversely, In racing more is nearly always worth it.

AeroCoupe’s car made 318 rwhp on 11 to 1 compression, which is around 375 flywheel. That’s 1.22 HP/cubic inch, so that motor has to wind up to a higher rpm than a TFS-1 cam motor to hit peak power, therefore requiring a cam with longer timing events and relatively lower dynamic compression. That’s why his higher static compression works.

As you begin to push the boundary on compression, quench clearance becomes quite critical to prevent detonation. As suggested previously, ideally don’t allow more than .040” between the top of the piston and the flat, quench area in the combustion chamber. You can go as tight as .035” but to prevent pistons from kissing the heads you’d better KNOW your deck height of ALL pistons and not have excessive piston rock in any of the bores. For us mere mortal, home engine builders, .038 - .040” is a great target. Importantly, that does NOT mean the piston is .040” down in the bore, but rather a zero-decked flat top piston with a .040” gasket, etc. Don’t forget about the gasket space.

Recommend not going larger than 190LPH on the fuel pump unless changing over to larger fuel lines. Pressure will drop in the small diameter factory full lines at peak rpm anyway, and the increased speed of flow at all times through the return system causes fluid friction that will heat the fuel. 190LPH will easily feed a naturally aspirated, street 306. Factory 5.0L HO pump is only 88LPH.

+1 on not exceeding 85% duty cycle on your injectors. As the pulse width passes that threshold the short closing time does not allow the injector pintle to mechanically operate reliably and consistently, so fueling will become erratic. Also, the extended degrees of crankshaft rotation during the injection cycle means part of the fuel will not be delivered at the optimum time into a high velocity airstream, for best mixing.

Significantly larger than necessary injectors cause other fueling challenges, mostly at idle where the pulse width is so short that the pintle cannot mechanically respond with consistency. If your injector peak duty cycle falls somewhere between 70% - 85% you won’t need to worry about any of that stuff.

Finally, +1 on Ed at Flowtech Induction for a custom cam for any small block Ford. I have two small blocks now, both with Ed cams. Your TFS-1 is a decent choice for your stated goals and current combo, but if you decide to try something else I wouldn’t look anywhere else. Good luck!
 
I failed to mention that I will also be using the GT40 intake manifold, I was able to get the whole top end from a 1997 explorer engine. I did also do some port work to the heads, but nothing crazy. Mostly just smoothing out casting flash and the bowls, as well as shaping the part of the valve guides that protrude into the intake and exhaust passage into a kind of teardrop shape. Not trying to set any records, I'm mostly just doing all this for fun.

Still a little unclear as to whether or not I will need to upgrade my fuel pump and injectors for this combo, if I don't need to upgrade to stay at a reasonable duty cycle of ~85% then I would rather not. I'm not concerned about 'room to grow' because I don't plan on doing any more engine upgrades to this particular car.
 
With this combo you should cover your bases for making up to 280 flywheel HP.

At that power level 19lb. injectors will run at an 85% duty cycle if your BSFC (brake specific fuel curve, a measure of engine efficiency) is at .55 or better. Your well matched combo should be better. Staying with the 19lb. injectors will minimize tuning hassles and create no penalty.
 
There is a difference between theory and practice when it comes to pumps and injectors. My friend owned a foxbody mustang shop (since the 80's) with dyno up until a few years ago. I've literally seen it all.
Fuel pump upgrades for stock blocks should really just be 155lph or 255lph. 190's don't really serve a point, it's more than a HCI setup setup needs and less and a supercharged setup requires.
The stock fuel system is fine to 500rwhp (with the right pump and injectors), no aftermarket fuel line necessary.
19's will get you very close to 300rwhp, though 24's are the right move at that number.
If you go 2 injectors sizes outside the range of what you really need you are going to have issues if it's not tuned.
So if you need 19's and you run 30's, it will probably be a mess at idle.

Even my old Saleen Explorer 5.0 used 19's, that had an engine with factory P heads and an Eaton M90. The setup produced 286rwhp on an automatic trans and that was forced induction. I daily drove it that way for 100,000 miles.

If this setup was mine, i would run the 19's, a matching calibrated meter and a 155lph pump.
 
I hate to be that guy but wtf why not...

Coupe, built 331 through a T5 and ran out of fuel up top at 470ish fwhp. Fuel system consisted of a stock hanger, 255 lph pump, stock fuel lines, stock fuel rails, Aeromotive FPR, and 42 lb/hr injectors. Car has an A9L with an SCT chip and was tuned on a Mustang Dyno by a guy in McKinney, TX that is known for his skill set on these cars.

He had to raise the fuel pressure up to 52 psi to get enough fuel up top to keep it from leaning out. I drove it this was for about 4 years and it ran great but that chewed on my. Ended up looking into things and went down a deeeep rabbit hole which means I spent money but learned a lot.

I would tell anyone to go out and build a fuel system for a motor making around or less than 450 fwhp but I can tell you that the factory fuel lines in my car were causing a lean condition with my motor combo but if you are not turning past 6,000 rpm I don't think it would come up. Mine was leaning out past 6,000 so the added pressure allowed it to twist up to 7,600 and not lean out.

Pro-M has a really nice video showing how when you get up to the 255 lph pumps when the fuel level gets low (1/4 tank or so I believe) the return line has so much pressure and volume in low demand states that it can literally cavitate the fuel at the pump inlet. A guy on YouTube showed how he redirected the return fuel away from the pump inlet and says it works very well so that would be a good thing to do when replacing the pump.

Anyhow, all I am trying to say is when you are putting together a motor be sure to utilize the calculators for the injector sizing and then take a look at fuel consumption as well. That will help with a lot of decisions with regards to the fuel system. If you end up getting a tune then pay attention to the AFR through the pulls and work with your tuner. They can do a lot but sometimes fixing it with the tune is just a bandaid for a mechanical or electrical (low voltage to the pump) issue that needs to be addressed.
 
It seems like the consensus is that the stock injectors should work fine but the stock fuel pump should be upgraded, so I will try that first with the 155LPH pump or even a 110LPH would probably be fine. I will run the stock MAF as well. If I run out of injector then I can address that situation if it comes to that. Appreciate all the input.