Ridge Reamer

[myfirstii]

Can anyone explain to me how to properly use a Ridge reamer. At first i thought that it would be pretty straight forward. but as i read the instructions on the tools box it just confusion me even more. I dont want to mess up the cylinder wall. It seems like just a small mess up can be disasteris.
Any help would be great.
Pat

 

[porky442]

If my memory serves me the tool goes in the cylinder and can be held in the walls. the cutter is placed under the ridge where the wall is smooth. Adjust the cutter to just lightly drag against the wall and lock it there. Then turn the cutter around and it will cut the ridge off. Do not get heavy handed when you adjust the cutter out against the smooth part of the wall, it's better to take a couple cuts if you are not sure. Feel the surface to see if the smooth part and the cut part are the same level. The surface will not be smooth in the fresh cut area, but a hone will take care of that. Also use a light oil on the surface when cutting. Tranny fluid works well. Hope this helps.
If this does not make sense to you get help BEFORE YOU TRY IT YOURSELF!

 

[myfirstii]

The only thing that doesnt make sense to me is putting the cutter under the ridge??? shouldnt it be on the ridge so it can take it off??? If it is under the ridge how is it suppose to make it smooth with the rest of the wall??
Thanks
Pat

 

[porky442]

Pat,

If you you cut the thing from the ridge itself, you may take off more than what is flush with the cylinder wall. That unwanted taper may cause problems with rings, or the sealing of the head gaskets.

Phil

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

I use an ammco reamer, just cut the ridge off. That particular reamer pilots off the deck surface to keep it square in the bore. Don't worry about getting too deep a cut in one pass, you wouldn't be able to turn the reamer with ordinary tools if it was cutting that deep.

Take small bites (actually, I adjust as I go) and stop when you have a nice uniform gray band the width of the unworn paortion of the cylinder wall with no "step" that will catch a fingernail.

I wouldn't fret too much about a slight overcut, since you'll be boring anyway (RIGHT?). You'd have to cut pretty deeply to get deep enough to be more than even a .020 overbore, let alone a .030 or .040.

 

[Wart]

The only thing that doesnt make sense to me is putting the cutter under the ridge???

How else are you going to know when the cutter is adjusted flush with the wall?

 

[porky442]

Pat if you are gonna have it bored anyway, have the machine shop do it.
A screw driver in hand can ruin a wall surface easy enough, that cutter is designed to cut metal. Use your best judgment.

Phil

 

[zwhitr]

Pat if you are gonna have it bored anyway, have the machine shop do it.
A screw driver in hand can ruin a wall surface easy enough, that cutter is designed to cut metal. Use your best judgment.

Phil

The main reason for reaming is to get the ridge out it can cause broken rings and sometimes difficultly removing pistons I haven't use a reamer since high school you can hone it yourself or if changing pistons have the shop bore it .030 over that will remove any ridge that might exist.

 

[myfirstii]

Thanks For all the help guys.....Im going to be reusing the pistons so im not going to be boring it out. If had the money i would but im going to be a freshman in college next year plus i just got back from my prom and im way in debt with my parents. Thanks for all the help with out you guys
I would never get anything done right.
Pat

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

Thanks For all the help guys.....Im going to be reusing the pistons so im not going to be boring it out. If had the money i would but im going to be a freshman in college next year plus i just got back from my prom and im way in debt with my parents. Thanks for all the help with out you guys
I would never get anything done right.
Pat

I question the wisdom of reringing an engine that has an appreciable ridge.

Cast pistons are not particularly expensive, and a simple rering job on an engine with much taper or out-or-round will gain little.

I've been there, too, but you might want to think about either leaving it be, or biting the bullet and boring. The few hundred extra would be well spent, IMO.

Just something to think about.

 

[zwhitr]

I question the wisdom of reringing an engine that has an appreciable ridge.

Cast pistons are not particularly expensive, and a simple rering job on an engine with much taper or out-or-round will gain little.

I've been there, too, but you might want to think about either leaving it be, or biting the bullet and boring. The few hundred extra would be well spent, IMO.

Just something to think about.

Ditto

If your gonna do it--- then do it right you will feel better everytime you floor it, knowing its done right and it will hold together.

Have you had the crank checked yet.

Monies well spent there getting a tight strong bottem end. I'm not talking after market just crank turned and new bearings the 302W has a lower end that will hold with much abuse as long as it has tight clearances.

 

[myfirstii]

There not cast pistons there forged the engine is a 92 H.O. The engine has only seen about 50,000 miles. And Yes the crank will be checked and I will be putting in new bearings. Im sorry if I sound dumb with all my questions. Its just that I have never done any of this before and Im set on doing it my self. I could probably get my Dad to dish out the money to have someone do it. But in the end I wouldn't feel as satisfied I just love the feeling of knowing that I did It on my own. Ya I'll Probably mess up acouple of times but that s the only way you learn right??? Well any way maybe ill be able the understand better if your define Ridge for me. That seems to be making me the most confused. Is it Thethe carbon deposits? Or is it the ridge of the deck? As in the top top of the cylinder wall. Thanks again
Pat

 

[dmoody]

myfirstii, I tip my hat to you for wanting to learn how to rebuild an engine. It can be very rewarding and fun.

As for a "ridge", if you have one at all, it will be on your #1 cylinder. It is an area of material where the topmost compression ring never reaches or scrapes against the cylinder wall. Since that area never sees any friction from the rings, a ridge gets created. Remember that the greatest strain on the piston/cylinder wall comes when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. When the spark plug fires the rings expand against the cylinder wall as the piston travels back down. This expansion is proportional in strength to the compression of your engine. Therefore a higher compression engine will naturally wear more than a lower one. A ridge of height eight thousandths or more requires that the engine be rebored and larger pistons installed.

d

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

myfirstii: Didn't mean to antagoize, you sound mildly perturbed. Curious why you're into a 50K engine. Not criticizing, just curious. I had ~ahem~ "ass"umed you had a conventional 302, with all its' attendant 20+ year wear issues. And in case it's in your signature, I'll apologize now, but I don't have them displayed, cause too many people think "removed air silencer" is worthy of note in a sig file (not so bad in this room as in some of the others).

dmoody explained it very well, with the exception that if the ridge is .004, I would look at boring, as that would be .008 cylinder wear (.004 on both sides of the cylinder). The area right below the ridge is usually the largest worn area, as the piston assembly spends more time there and at BDC than elsewhere in the cylinder, and is subject to the most ring loading at TDC.

 

[myfirstii]

Dmoody-Thanks for the reply I think that will help Ill test my luck today after school and see if im successful.

TheCobraman-Sorry If my post sounded like i Was perturbed that wasnt my intention. AS for the Engine 50k was the lowest miles that I could find for my build up. Ive heard that 5.0 wear real well and can handle alot so I didnt think that it would be that big of a deal. Is it going to be?? Ya Ill have to change my signature I forgot about that, although I do still have the original 302 in there until I finish With the new one.
Thanks Again I really appreciate it.
Pat

 

[dmoody]

The Cobraman is right... I meant to say four thousandths of a ridge and eight thousandths total means you should rebore.

d

 

[myfirstii]

myfirstii: Didn't mean to antagoize, you sound mildly perturbed. Curious why you're into a 50K engine. Not criticizing, just curious. I had ~ahem~ "ass"umed you had a conventional 302, with all its' attendant 20+ year wear issues. And in case it's in your signature, I'll apologize now, but I don't have them displayed, cause too many people think "removed air silencer" is worthy of note in a sig file (not so bad in this room as in some of the others).

I WAS THINKING ABOUT WHAT YOU SAID LAST NIGHT AND WHEN YOU ASKED WHY I WAS INTO A 50K MILE ENGINE DID YOU MEAN...WHY AM I REBUILDING IT WITH SO LITTLE MILES ON IT?? CAUSE IF I DONT NEED TO TAKE THE PISTONS OUT AND RE-RING THEM I WONT I JUST THOUGHT IT WOULD BE SAFE CAUSE IT HAS 50K MILES ON IT.
THANKS
PAT

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

Opinions vary, but here's mine.

If the engine didn't exhibit any signs of problems, I would leave the shortblock alone, after checking the bearings.

A fuel-injected, overdrive-equipped engine doesn't see anywhere near the wear that a "conventional" carbureted, non-overdrive engine does. To me, a 50K mile EFI 302 would be comprable to an "old school" 302 with 20-30K on it.

I have seen EFI 5.0 Fords with 180K that didn't smoke, and ran and sounded as good as cars with 50K.

So, I guess that what I'm saying is, if cost is an issue, I'd leave it alone. Check the bearings, check out the heads (especially valve stem seals), and put'er together. Wear it out, then build it

 

[77sleeper]

time for a good ole fashioned leak down test

 

[Blue Thunder]

Bah, 50k is barely broken in for a roller motor.

Seriously, I've seen HO 302s still running with 150-200k on them. They're exceptionally durable motors.

At 50k, your motor shouldnt have any ridge at all, unless the block is soft or something. Are you certain it's only 50k, and not 150k?