Also i was studying the engine layout with this engine have two seprate chains not a single main chain. In reality this engine is really set up as to separate 4cly engines running on a single crank there for if i get a cam gear to walk a degree because of slop on the cam shaft or gear key way. It could get out of time. The ecm would not detect it because the engine fires off the crank .
Strange Gurgling Sound In Exhaust
- Thread starter inenidok
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Correct. This is why my dad's car did not throw a code for timing even though the entire bank was changing timing constantly. It only had a code pop up after things had gone horribly wrong.
Ok just installed the timing set and guides and gears. Guides was broke the chain would get loose and then tighten up, i used ford tool to lock cams etc found the passenger side had jump a tooth well got everything back together it fired up and the nosie still there and 
ty idle is back and its getting worse, now i have leaking cam covers due to they did not reseal. I could not get the covers off the hydro boost in the way. So at this point i am going to let the car back, i have done what i can do. Paid shops paid dealership etc. Bought all the parts. Now i am at the point it is the heads or internal. I have no way of pulling the motor. So its time to cut loss, i know people say these motors are great. In my experience nothing beats old 302 small block, this will be the last ford i will own, unless its 90 or older.
ty idle is back and its getting worse, now i have leaking cam covers due to they did not reseal. I could not get the covers off the hydro boost in the way. So at this point i am going to let the car back, i have done what i can do. Paid shops paid dealership etc. Bought all the parts. Now i am at the point it is the heads or internal. I have no way of pulling the motor. So its time to cut loss, i know people say these motors are great. In my experience nothing beats old 302 small block, this will be the last ford i will own, unless its 90 or older.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Just wondering. What were the results of a compression test? The modular 4.6 is an interference motor and it's well known to bend valves when out of time. What has been done to rule out a bad/bent valve?
Besides pulling head nothing i did not get it back to ford to do the test for i am out of town for 14 days and only in for 4 days, i knew i had chain rattle so it had to replace it regardless. So i figured if the timing chain failed to fix it then it will be the heads i know for sure. There is no other thing it can be. But like i stated before i have no way in pulling the motor to get the heads off plus if i got to replace the heads might as well do after market with 8 threads instead of the factory 4 threads. Those heads 1500 a pair, but if i am going to go that far into the enigne you might as well buy a new motor for 3500.00 plus price of install you what looking at 5000.00 plus at the dealer. There are no real good shops i trust around here so then i just over spent the value of the car. Because it needs all new suspension as well 1500.00 for a complete kit, and the value of this 04 convertible 3500.00 on average maybe less.
So i done what i am able to do i dont have the tools to do a compression test the tool i have do fit the hole and you got to have someone to hold it tight to the head. And its in storage. I have already dumped around 2000.00 into the car. A still owe a bunch on it. Got to get it inspected and tags this month and it wont pass because of its state of running condition. So i think i should cut my losses. Before i keep beating this dead horse.
So i done what i am able to do i dont have the tools to do a compression test the tool i have do fit the hole and you got to have someone to hold it tight to the head. And its in storage. I have already dumped around 2000.00 into the car. A still owe a bunch on it. Got to get it inspected and tags this month and it wont pass because of its state of running condition. So i think i should cut my losses. Before i keep beating this dead horse.
Besides pulling head nothing i did not get it back to ford to do the test for i am out of town for 14 days and only in for 4 days, i knew i had chain rattle so it had to replace it regardless. So i figured if the timing chain failed to fix it then it will be the heads i know for sure. There is no other thing it can be. But like i stated before i have no way in pulling the motor to get the heads off plus if i got to replace the heads might as well do after market with 8 threads instead of the factory 4 threads. Those heads 1500 a pair, but if i am going to go that far into the enigne you might as well buy a new motor for 3500.00 plus price of install you what looking at 5000.00 plus at the dealer. There are no real good shops i trust around here so then i just over spent the value of the car. Because it needs all new suspension as well 1500.00 for a complete kit, and the value of this 04 convertible 3500.00 on average maybe less.
So i done what i am able to do i dont have the tools to do a compression test the tool i have do fit the hole and you got to have someone to hold it tight to the head. And its in storage. I have already dumped around 2000.00 into the car. A still owe a bunch on it. Got to get it inspected and tags this month and it wont pass because of its state of running condition. So i think i should cut my losses. Before i keep beating this dead horse.
So i done what i am able to do i dont have the tools to do a compression test the tool i have do fit the hole and you got to have someone to hold it tight to the head. And its in storage. I have already dumped around 2000.00 into the car. A still owe a bunch on it. Got to get it inspected and tags this month and it wont pass because of its state of running condition. So i think i should cut my losses. Before i keep beating this dead horse.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
I wonder how much different things would have been IF a compression test was actually done much earlier in the trouble shooting process.
For many auto parts stores the cost to rent a compression tester is ZERO.
The numbers you are quoting don't make sense for a car of this age. A new motor for a more than 10 year old daily driver not likely cost effective.
My current ride (2000 Mustang GT) came from a guy in a similar situation as yourself. Tried to fix it himself. Ran into problems and gave up. I bought the car and put a low mileage salvage yard motor from an 2003 Grand Marquis. Paid $830 for the motor. That was 7 years and 90k miles ago.
To bad you don't live in the Houston area. I wouldn't mind looking for a new "project".
For many auto parts stores the cost to rent a compression tester is ZERO.
The numbers you are quoting don't make sense for a car of this age. A new motor for a more than 10 year old daily driver not likely cost effective.
My current ride (2000 Mustang GT) came from a guy in a similar situation as yourself. Tried to fix it himself. Ran into problems and gave up. I bought the car and put a low mileage salvage yard motor from an 2003 Grand Marquis. Paid $830 for the motor. That was 7 years and 90k miles ago.
To bad you don't live in the Houston area. I wouldn't mind looking for a new "project".
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2004&m=Ford&mo=Mustang#Search
3750.00 engine from ford. Not paying labor to put in a used motor. And we have bought 3 jasper engines in the past and had problems and pulled the heads and each cylinders was bored a different size in each engine. So i usually have a machine shop rebuild my motors but where i live i cant work on cars so i have to use shops and pay labor. Plus the pay off on this pos is 11,000. I bought it from a car lot because we needed a car. I know it was to much but i needed a vechile. Ford quoted me 732.00 for the intake and labor 1250.00 then a complete timing set with tensioners 399.99. Plus labor. So yea 2000.00 is there. Plus 100.00 plus for the diagnostic test.
3750.00 engine from ford. Not paying labor to put in a used motor. And we have bought 3 jasper engines in the past and had problems and pulled the heads and each cylinders was bored a different size in each engine. So i usually have a machine shop rebuild my motors but where i live i cant work on cars so i have to use shops and pay labor. Plus the pay off on this pos is 11,000. I bought it from a car lot because we needed a car. I know it was to much but i needed a vechile. Ford quoted me 732.00 for the intake and labor 1250.00 then a complete timing set with tensioners 399.99. Plus labor. So yea 2000.00 is there. Plus 100.00 plus for the diagnostic test.
It dont matter if a compress test was done or not the guides was broke on the engine and needed to be replaced. Even if the test was done before hand and needed heads there 1499.00 from patriot heads. Then if i need new cams thats 599.00 ? Then 399.00 timing set then labor to pull motor reinstall motor? Fixing motor etc so the heads end up being the problem thats the last thing and most expensive fix
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I think the point is, if you ever actually got the compression/leakdown test done, it would have given you a lot more information and you could have saved a ton of money in the long run. At this point, I would just get a junkyard motor and have that swapped in. It will be a very cost effective solution.
Ok well I replace the timing chains and passenger side had jumped a tooth. It did not fix the problem car lot bought used motor and installed it in the car in the process they bust fuse block broke cowl and bust brake switch, I had mentioned a year ago the sound remind me of valves being bent or not closing. Everyone said i would have a light on. Well this not true if its the passenger head, so i got to keep my old motor and i will rebuild it. So if i would have went with my gut the first time and pull the passanger head i would have found the problem. So all these so called new mechanics dont know there , i have took the car to multiple shops and no one knew what it was i mention the valves oh it cant be the valves you dont know what you are talking about, well i have bulit many cars and trucks had a couple of shops went to school for aircraft mechanic, i just dont have a place to work, i been turning wrenches before most these mechanics was in yellow. So if i run across another one i will know exactly what it is. Maybe this post will help some one else
, i have took the car to multiple shops and no one knew what it was i mention the valves oh it cant be the valves you dont know what you are talking about, well i have bulit many cars and trucks had a couple of shops went to school for aircraft mechanic, i just dont have a place to work, i been turning wrenches before most these mechanics was in yellow. So if i run across another one i will know exactly what it is. Maybe this post will help some one else
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
I for one did not say it couldn't be a problem with the base motor. Which is why my recommendation was a compression test and/or a leak down test which would have shown a valve problem. It would have shown the problem without having to pull the head to find out.
IMO, on an interference motor IF it's confirmed that the timing chain has indeed slipped a tooth it should be ASSUMED the motor has valve damage until it's proven otherwise.
IMO, on an interference motor IF it's confirmed that the timing chain has indeed slipped a tooth it should be ASSUMED the motor has valve damage until it's proven otherwise.
Similar threads
