- Dec 19, 2010
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It should all be ok. The added deck height of the 351 helped out some too.I am pretty sure I had to clearance my March bracket due to my under drive pulleys, let me know if you need a pic of it, it was just a touch of grinding to clear the WP pulley.
Rock Auto wins again! Got my store credit and 5% discount. Complete set of lifters was $90 shipped, leaving me a balance of $20 today. Not bad. Engine should be buttoned up by the end of the week.
I need motor mounts. What are your thoughts on what to use for this application?
Fermented chickens?As far as I'm concerned, the nvh transmitted to the chassis by using a solid mount is negligible on a hobby car like most fox mustangs are purposed as now days.
Much in the same way a solid steering coupler transmits all of the vibrations you'll feel if you use one of those as well.
Rubber/ poly stuff has its intended market.....weiners that want stock feeling nvh characteristics on their cars despite the fact that the engine may, or may not make over twice the power it made stock.
Talk about bi-polar.
The benefit you get in trade when you solidly mount the engine outweighs the increase in noticible harshness......and it can be applied across the board, regardless of what you do with it.
The engine becomes a structural member in the front end, increasing the torsional rigidity. Less chassis flex, equates to a more tunable chassis.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner
Drop mounts FTWI would try convertible mounts with a 1/2 or 1 inch spacer between the frame and k member. If that doesn't get it, there's always the drop mounts like i sold @stykthyn
You ever use those things?Drop mounts FTW
Just picked up 80# injectors and push rods.
Baby steps. Still haven't seen any movement on the lifters. Weird
Just picked up 80# injectors and push rods.
Baby steps. Still haven't seen any movement on the lifters. Weird
I have a lifter converted for measuring and a rod length measuring tool.I know this is a budget build, but how do you know what length pushrods you need without the lifters? Are you sure you can use them, or was it just that good of a deal?
Joe
I didn't have the timing in the software synced to the actual timing.
You have to set the base timing at 10° with the A9L, then install the MS and see where the timing is with the timing light. In my case, it was advanced like 40° - no joke. So I had to adjust the trigger angle offset in the software until I measured 10° with the timing light.