POR-15 question

66 Tiger

66 Tiger

New Member
Jul 13, 2003
249
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0
Virginia
#1
I am in the middle of removing the SUPER THICK layer of undercoating that the previous owner so graciously applied through-out the entire engine compartment & am trying to make a decision on what to re-apply in it's place.

I did a "search" & saw several positive recommendations for the POR-15 product & wanted to ask anyone that has ever used it before- what kind of results did you obtain with brushing it on? Also, were there many brush strokes visable in the final coat?

Being that this is going to be in the engine bay, I'm trying to acheive the best results that I can with my limited painting experience. ( outside of taking the car to a body shop & letting them do it... LOL! )

"They" ( POR-15 ) claim it levels good - but I would prefer to hear from someones first-hand experience with the product.

I don't have access to a sprayer so I need to find something I can either spray out of a can or brush on...

Thanks.:nice:
 
#2
Undercoating in your engine compartment ?! :nonono:

Here's my Wheel Well page (details chemical undercoating removal) and Trunk done in Por15 page. Yes there are brush strokes. The key to keeping it to a minimum is to use a quality brush and when applying, always working the wet edge. Brush strokes aren't as much of an issue with the Por15 Rust Preventive Sealer (which has the consistency of wood stain)as it is with the thicker Por15 Topcoat.

If you don't go down to bare metal, you'll be wasting your money on Por15.

You can brush on Por15's Rust Preventive Sealer, then rattle-can spray it for a smoother topcoat. To ensure good topcoat adhesion, you'll want to spatter rattle-can primer onto the Por15 Sealer while it is still tacky. (This is all covered in their instructions.)

I'm assuming you have the engine out.

Though I have no personal experience with Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator, it may be the better way to go (smoother finish) since it is available in a spray can.
 
#4
You can check out my cardomain site... I used rustbullet and it can be brushed on, it came out really well, and I used it ALL over my car. I do need to update the final paint pics... just been busy with house stuff for a while.
 
#5
My faith in POR 15 is faiding, It doesn't seem to stop rust creep, and i used it to protect, and prevent rust. Odley it hasn't done the greatest job of that. I have also used Eastwoods rust encapsulator so far so good, though it hasnt been on the car nearly as long as the POR 15. Just my experience with it.
 
#6
I applied it with the foam brushes. It left a fairly smooth finish. You have to cover it with paint anyway. I would just shoot it with sandable primer, then topcoat. Should be nice and smooth. Very, very, very clean before using the Por-15. It will not stick if there is any oils on the surface.
 
#7
webshot said:
Platonic

WIll that process work well for the inside floor of the car? I want to stop rust and protect the floor (have pans replaced). Plus make it look cool even tho carpet will be over it.
Click to expand...
It would work well. I would acid etch (Por15's Metal Ready) the new floor and remaining old floor before installing the new floor. That way you'll have a protective zinc-oxide coating between the welded lips. I'd also Por15 the bottom of the floor panels (except for the welded lip) before installing. (note: use caution when welding as Por15 is flamable) Here's my Welded Trunk page.
 
#8
Red5oh said:
You can check out my cardomain site... I used rustbullet and it can be brushed on, it came out really well, and I used it ALL over my car. I do need to update the final paint pics... just been busy with house stuff for a while.
Click to expand...

I've used Rust Bullet as well on my brothers '66 for his cowl repair. Went on pretty good and I like the steel look compared to the POR-15 black look.
 
#10
Thanks everyone.:nice:

I'm going to go with the Eastwood encapsulator product over the POR-15 ONLY because of the possibility of brush-strokes. It will be alot easier too I think to get back into all those hard to reach areas as well... Should be here some time next week.

As for now - I must return to the tedious job of stripping off all this DAMN undercoating. ( what a mess )

I can't believe someone would want to spray it in the engine bay. :mad: Just my opinion though...
 
#14
I had a strange problem with the semi gloss black POR-15 in my engine bay. I took it down to bare metal, and I used the metal prep they sell. I had hundreds, if not thousands of tiny air bubbles form as it was drying. It dried hard as a rock, but looked awful. I ended up having to take it down to bare metal again. I took a chance and used POR-15 again, and it happened again, although not nearly as bad. I decided I could live with it, as most of the visible places are OK. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on what could cause it? The only thing I could think of was the high humidity in this area, but it's just a wild guess.
 
#16
69gmachine said:
I had a strange problem with the semi gloss black POR-15 in my engine bay. I took it down to bare metal, and I used the metal prep they sell. I had hundreds, if not thousands of tiny air bubbles form as it was drying. It dried hard as a rock, but looked awful. I ended up having to take it down to bare metal again. I took a chance and used POR-15 again, and it happened again, although not nearly as bad. I decided I could live with it, as most of the visible places are OK. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on what could cause it? The only thing I could think of was the high humidity in this area, but it's just a wild guess.
Click to expand...
Never heard of that. I don't think high humidity would cause it (unless the applied surface was actually wet) since they claim higher humidity makes it cure faster. Assuming the surface was completely dry the only probability is that the Por-15 got contaminated - as they say: "One drop of sweat will contaminate the whole container and should then be discarded".
 
#18
Did the same thing for me.


69gmachine said:
I had a strange problem with the semi gloss black POR-15 in my engine bay. I took it down to bare metal, and I used the metal prep they sell. I had hundreds, if not thousands of tiny air bubbles form as it was drying. It dried hard as a rock, but looked awful. I ended up having to take it down to bare metal again. I took a chance and used POR-15 again, and it happened again, although not nearly as bad. I decided I could live with it, as most of the visible places are OK. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on what could cause it? The only thing I could think of was the high humidity in this area, but it's just a wild guess.
Click to expand...
 
#19
If you want an alternative to brushing without owning a spray gun, you can get Prevals. They are aerosol canisters which can spray thick paint. We use them at work to spray gel coat and that works good. They come with glass jars that screw into the bottom. The jars are filled with paint and then the aerosol sprays it out. I dont know all the places they are for sale but West Marine carries them.
 
#20
Platonic Solid said:
It doesn't have to be tedious - Did you check my first link above?

Also you never said if your doing this with the engine out.
Click to expand...

LOL... Your "wheel-well page" IS what inspired me to re-do the engine compartment in the first place. I actually viewed it last week when I was researching finishing techniques.

BTW - Nice Work! :hail2:

I looked for the peel-away product at the local hardware stores & nobody seems to carry it. Being impatient - I went with some "other" brand which I'm sure doesn't work half as good.

The engine isn't completely out - but I do have it stripped down to pretty much just the block. Removing the motor mounts enables me to lower the motor & get back into the trans tunnel.

Here's a couple pics. This took a good 4hrs & is only the passenger side. I still need to wire brush the remaining spots...

After second coat:
View attachment 420339

After third coat & washing with simple green:
View attachment 420341

As you can see - I still have a LONG way to go.:nice:
 
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