North East SSoM Members!!!

Travis you will like that stuff. Wish I had gotten the adjustable perch lower control arms.
The pan hard bar is great! No more back end fishtailing. You will notice the difference. Mine also clears the rear end girdle. You can't go wrong with their stuff.
ITs also much better to maximize your traction before you try upping the power...yeah I read your post in the power adders forum.
 
Travis you will like that stuff. Wish I had gotten the adjustable perch lower control arms.
The pan hard bar is great! No more back end fishtailing. You will notice the difference. Mine also clears the rear end girdle. You can't go wrong with their stuff.
ITs also much better to maximize your traction before you try upping the power...yeah I read your post in the power adders forum.

I could just say F it and throw a vortech on it now but Id love to pull some decent times with it N/A and traction is the way to do it. Do you mean my thread in 94/95 Tech b/c I dont remember posting about traction related issues in the power adders section.

speakin of mods trav....did that guy ever send you those brakes

I dont think he even has them yet, he was waiting to receive them the last I knew. We still talk through E-mail but we havn't since I put the exhaust on it.

Ordered a Vanity Plate
 

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no you just posting in someones thread about turbos.

ohh ok. According to the Maximum Motorsports site I should go with the Extreme Duty Adjustable Control Arms.

MM offers two different types of rear lower control arms: Heavy-Duty and Extreme-Duty. The difference between the two is the bushing configuration. The Heavy-Duty arms are suitable for cars with moderate horsepower levels that are not drag raced. We recommend the Extreme-Duty control arms for any car that is drag raced, and any car with the higher horsepower levels that come with superchargers, larger displacement engines, etc.
 
I don't know when I'm gonna get my car running right. Needs more time/money than I have right now.

Needs

1, switch mikes front tires to my back rims
2. spark plugs
3. tranny fluid change
4. exhaust welded up
5. rotors, pads calipers

and if that doesn't stop the noise

6. aluminum driveshaft
7. flywheel
8. axles and/or bearings
9. differential

and then, if its all right, a big fat expensive paint job

if not, I'm gonna sell it and get an sti
 
sure thing, mike. It would be nice to have an awd to through around the dirt roads out here and drive in the winter and never have to touch anything besides the oil. But it's hard to give up.
nevermind having NO car payments, truck has been paid off for some time now.:)

over 200 fish landed this spring, cousin had 3 > 100 lbs, 115 being the biggest
 
Larry, why change the oil in the trans? It should be filled just once for the life of the trans.
Plus I thought Chris rebuilt the differential last year. If so there shouldn't be a need to mess with that.
I would definitely look at the U joints in that driveshaft. Especially if that is the original steel unit with how many miles on it. I know the driveshaft joints can make a lot of noise when they are spent. I had to replace some in a old pickup I used to have.
Drove my car to work yesterday to put some miles on it. Ran OK but it needs some tuning. Ran lean going to work and rich coming home. Got a new mass air sensor on order.