Anyone have some pics of a baffle that they fabbed up for their factory valve covers to clear roller rockers?? I was actally thinking about using a piece of screen... any suggestions?
jim
jim
Baffle for Factory Valve Covers?
- Thread starter allballsmustang
- Start date
cenok is family
15 Year Member
did you connect the hose that goes to the throttle body back up or did you just use a regular breather on it?
mustanggt5pt0
New Member
I just took the baffle off and then pounded it flat. I put the valve cover back on and checked to see where it was hitting and then used a dremel to give enough clearance. I also had to use an angle grinder to remove extra casting material from the sides to make mine fit.
cenok is family
15 Year Member
i put the hose back on for now. i'll probably go with a breather later on though seeing as theres no longer anything stopping oil from going up the filler neck and hose anymore.
Hi Jim,
I went through this dilema when I built my motor. I first removed the old baffle and ground material away and made a new baffle and reattached it by drilling some new holes and using self tapping screws. This worked but I was nervous about the screws. Even though I used loc-tite I thought if one came loose it would destroy the motor.
So I finally decided to make a small cover out of sheet metal and weld it to the bottom of the oil-fill tube. The oil-filltube is steel so it will work. One problem I ran into was I already hade painted the valve covers (base coat/clear coat) so welding may ruin the paint. I was able to use a mig welder with and make small short spot welds. After each weld I used the rags soaked in water to cool the cover to prevent hurting my paint job. Also, the metal on the bottom of the oil-fill tube is thin so only short spot weld will work or you will blow through the metal. I was able to get this to work sucessfully even with new paint on the cover. I smoothed the welds out with a die grinder after I was done.
Here is a pic of the completed baffle. You can still see the holes I drilled.
Good luck.
https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/DSC01341.JPG
My car. https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/index.html
I went through this dilema when I built my motor. I first removed the old baffle and ground material away and made a new baffle and reattached it by drilling some new holes and using self tapping screws. This worked but I was nervous about the screws. Even though I used loc-tite I thought if one came loose it would destroy the motor.
So I finally decided to make a small cover out of sheet metal and weld it to the bottom of the oil-fill tube. The oil-filltube is steel so it will work. One problem I ran into was I already hade painted the valve covers (base coat/clear coat) so welding may ruin the paint. I was able to use a mig welder with and make small short spot welds. After each weld I used the rags soaked in water to cool the cover to prevent hurting my paint job. Also, the metal on the bottom of the oil-fill tube is thin so only short spot weld will work or you will blow through the metal. I was able to get this to work sucessfully even with new paint on the cover. I smoothed the welds out with a die grinder after I was done.
Here is a pic of the completed baffle. You can still see the holes I drilled.
Good luck.
https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/DSC01341.JPG
My car. https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/index.html
Hi Jim,
I went through this dilema when I built my motor. I first removed the old baffle and ground material away and made a new baffle and reattached it by drilling some new holes and using self tapping screws. This worked but I was nervous about the screws. Even though I used loc-tite I thought if one came loose it would destroy the motor.
So I finally decided to make a small cover out of sheet metal and weld it to the bottom of the oil-fill tube. The oil-filltube is steel so it will work. One problem I ran into was I already hade painted the valve covers (base coat/clear coat) so welding may ruin the paint. I was able to use a mig welder with and make small short spot welds. After each weld I used the rags soaked in water to cool the cover to prevent hurting my paint job. Also, the metal on the bottom of the oil-fill tube is thin so only short spot weld will work or you will blow through the metal. I was able to get this to work sucessfully even with new paint on the cover. I smoothed the welds out with a die grinder after I was done.
Here is a pic of the completed baffle. You can still see the holes I drilled.
Good luck.
https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/DSC01341.JPG
My car. https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/index.html
thanks for the help...i just went out to the garage and made one like you have and it seems like it should work...just out of curiosity what rockers are you using? how much clearancing did it require on the sides of the valve cover?
I have the scorpion 1.6 RRs. There was not alot of clearance on the sides but they did not rub. To be safe I made some extra clearance.
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