Classic guy looking for help with T5 swap

[SadbutTrue]

I'm a regular in the classic forum but for this topic it seemed like a good idea to get some advice from the Fox crowd...

I'm attempting to swap a T5 into my 351w (the 351 is a 1969 block) powered 66 in place of the C4. I am about to purchase a rebuilt WC T5 out of an 89 LX with (supposedly) everything I would need to swap the T5 into an automatic fox body.

My current question is that I've been told I need to use a 157 tooth, 28 oz imbalanced flywheel and a 10.5" clutch to match that bellhousing and engine combo. I want to make sure thats right. And I'm looking for clutch/pressure plate/flywheel recommendations... while it will be used initially with the engine listed below ( a very tame 351) it will eventually be behind a 400hp/400tq version of that, so somethign that could work behind both applications would be nice (and yes, I know, the t5 in its current form won't last long behind that engine).

Also, if anyone has any experience with using late model bellhousings and setting up clutch linkages (whether mechanical, cable, or hydraulic) please give me whatever advice you have... I'm currently slightly concerned about my longtubes interfering with the cable clutch I'm getting with the transmission.

Thanks and I apologize for any stupid questions in advance...

 

[88mouse]

my uncle is about to do this swap. the only probable he is having is the clutch linkage. He is thinking about going hydraulic. As far as the flywheel im not sure. But a 10.5 inch clutch is what you need its the biggiest you can run in the bellhousing. Go with a spec or a centerforce clutch any thing else is junk. Just blow my clutch up today in my gt (ram HD).

 

[Chuckman]

flywheel balance will be determined by your harmonic balancer. whatever your balancer is is what youre flywheel should be. iirc, early models at 28oz and late model 5.0's ate 50oz.

as far as clutch goes, an frpp king cobra, spec stage2, or centerforce would work well, ive got a stage1 and its kinda stiff, ive heard the kc is a bit more dd-able.

 

[maxine-70]

the linkage is gonna be the issue wit hyour setup. your 66 would have used a mechanical z-bar type clutch linkage that when you push the clutch in, the linkage would push BACK on the clutch fork to actuate it. cable setups work the reverse way, they PULL the clutch fork forward. they each work their own way because the ball pivot in the bellhousing is located in different spots respectively. ive never had a first gen mustang but surely someone out there makes a linkage kit to put a cable driven setup in your car. if not, youd have to look into fabricating/buying a hydraulic setup or looking into the possibility of an aftermarket bellhousing that uses early style clutch linkage but t5 style trans bolt pattern.

but before you get into all that, seriously reconsider the transmission you are about to purchase. t5's were marginal (highly) behind a stock 5.0 engine. even a mild 351 is going to push the limits even further with its higher torque output, and you already mentioned a built engine later down the road. spend the money and buy a tremec TKO or something else aftermarket. the tremec doesn not use the same bellhousing as the t5, so a future swap from the t5 to a tremec would again involve the purchase of a new bellhousing. easier to do it all the first time the right way. forget the t5.

i believe the tremec uses the standard ford toploader style bellhousing pattern. when i put the TKO in my 86, i used a bellhousing from an 82 GT a friend parted out. youd have to ask someone with a fresher memory than me exactly what bolt pattern the tremec uses. if its stadard ford toploader style, then save some money and use the whole bellhousing and clutch linkage setup that the 66 wouldve come with from the factory, mechanical. it will bolt right in much easier.

 

[stangman16]

Also, if anyone has any experience with using late model bellhousings and setting up clutch linkages (whether mechanical, cable, or hydraulic) please give me whatever advice you have... I'm currently slightly concerned about my longtubes interfering with the cable clutch I'm getting with the transmission.

I would go with a hydraulic setup, after having burned through a cable and working on my 2nd cable with my hedman headers. Although depending on what type of headers you have you might not have any interference problems with a clutch cable.

I drove my friends '72 Maverick that has a hydraulic setup and it was pretty sweet! I don't have a 351w, so I'm not sure if the 5.0 style bellhousing hooks up or not - but if I were to do it again I would have gone with a hydraulic setup. Infact theres a link out there on how to make your own hydraulic setup I could try and find if you're interested, you have to know how to cut and weld though - to make the mounting bracket for the pump on the bellhousing.

Thanks and I apologize for any stupid questions in advance...

Stupid..? You're being smart by asking on what you don't know or need advice on.

 

[SadbutTrue]

I would go with a hydraulic setup, after having burned through a cable and working on my 2nd cable with my hedman headers. Although depending on what type of headers you have you might not have any interference problems with a clutch cable.

I drove my friends '72 Maverick that has a hydraulic setup and it was pretty sweet! I don't have a 351w, so I'm not sure if the 5.0 style bellhousing hooks up or not - but if I were to do it again I would have gone with a hydraulic setup. Infact theres a link out there on how to make your own hydraulic setup I could try and find if you're interested, you have to know how to cut and weld though - to make the mounting bracket for the pump on the bellhousing.

Yeah, that link would be cool to see. I also have Heddman's for my 351w, so if the hydraulic setup will work for it then I'll just go with that the first time. I know NPD sells a setup...

 

[stangman16]

Yeah, that link would be cool to see. I also have Heddman's for my 351w, so if the hydraulic setup will work for it then I'll just go with that the first time. I know NPD sells a setup...

I think MustangSteve had heddman's for his 351W (don't quote me!) and he sells a cable setup that you have to use the 5.0 bellhousing with. All in all I am more than pleased with his product and support, but my headers burn my clutch cable - so it's either I switch headers or get a hydraulic setup. So the cable setup might work for your 351 heddman headers, you might want to ask MustangSteve about it if you're interested in a cable setup.

I think it'll be cheaper for me to go w/the hydraulic setup since my headers have the O2 bungs already welded in.

JamesW is the one who did the write-up for his hydraulic conversion, very neat setup he has - and once I get some welding skills under my belt I will be making one of these for my '66 coupe. Someday I hope to have a 351w in it also

Link Below:

JamesW hydraulic setup

check out his other tech articles - very interesting!

and good luck!

 

[68stang351]

When I put my T5 in my 68, I used a fox bellhousing, clutch set, clutch fork, starter, and a Ron Morris cable conversion kit. Besides the crossmember, that was all the parts I needed. I also bought a new flywheel because I was starting from scratch, putting my 69 351w and T5 in place of a 200 I6 and a 3 speed. I purchased a FRPP Billet Steel flywheel. I can't remember what balance (it was about 6 yrs ago) but all 351w's have the same balance

This is the kit I used. http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/03clutch/index.html
It's been in there about 6 yrs and I haven't had one single problem. It was a pretty simple install too.

BTW, I have Headman 351 swap headers in mine with no issues with my RMP cable.

 

[SadbutTrue]

flywheel balance will be determined by your harmonic balancer. whatever your balancer is is what youre flywheel should be. iirc, early models at 28oz and late model 5.0's ate 50oz.

as far as clutch goes, an frpp king cobra, spec stage2, or centerforce would work well, ive got a stage1 and its kinda stiff, ive heard the kc is a bit more dd-able.

The stage 1 is supposed to be more daily-drivable than the spec stage 2 right? Any good dealers for it (summit and jegs don't carry it, it would seem... some shady ebay dealers do but.. well... they're just that). I guess I'm split between the KC and something a bit more aggressive that doesn't make driving it daily difficult.