Do i have to use a wet kit?
- Thread starter rayvinton
- Start date
Stark77
Member
Believe me - you WANT a wet kit. A dry kit can lean your car out to the point of detonation. If you're using a dry kit, I would suggest only using it at the track. You can also push a larger shot of nitrous, safely, using a wet kit. I have a wet kit and have used the 125 shot multiple times without any problems. I normally keep the 75 jets in for daily use. A nitrous plate is not necessary - you can shoot it right in through the air intake elbow at the TB.
You can use either a dry or a wet kit on your car. The difference in the two is that the injectors supply the fuel in a dry kit. The wet kit gets fuel from the Schrader valve and injects that in w/ the nitrous. Both have their pluses and minuses. I personally use a wet kit.
If you install the dry kit, you have to spray before the MAF meter so that it will sense the difference and spike the injectors to get the correct amount of fuel. You of course have to have enough injector to do this or you will go lean. Many will say that a tune is not absoluetely neccessary but, I would suggest a dyno tune either way you go. Dont forget the nitrous goodies(maybe your friend has those too) such as bottle warmer, WOT switch, etc.
Good luck
If you install the dry kit, you have to spray before the MAF meter so that it will sense the difference and spike the injectors to get the correct amount of fuel. You of course have to have enough injector to do this or you will go lean. Many will say that a tune is not absoluetely neccessary but, I would suggest a dyno tune either way you go. Dont forget the nitrous goodies(maybe your friend has those too) such as bottle warmer, WOT switch, etc.
Good luck
Stark77
Member
Best goodie of all is the remote bottle opener. It's a bit pricey but having nitrous on demand is priceless. Purge valve is cool, but not necessary. I use the NOS Sniper wet kit - my local shop had it on sale for $350.00. Get ready to spend about an extra $500 bucks though to get all the goodies and to make it safe - GET A RPM ACTIVATED SWITCH AND SAVE YOURSELF THE HASSLE OF REPLACING YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD. This is absolutely necessary if you are driving a manual transmission.
SonicStangGT
Active Member
Yeah, I blow the back out of my stock intake and bought the typhoon to replace. Don't need a bottle opener, because if its full, its on. The bottle heater is a most, and a RPM switch is good
On the dry kit, you cant run a very big shot, most people wont go over 100 hp, but with a wet kit you can go to 125, and if your like me, you will put the 150's in. I would say that a dry 75 shot would be safe with the proper tuning. Good luck as nitrous is very addicting.
Both the wet and dry setups are flawed in some ways. A computer controled direct port setup is ideal but expensive
the wet kit problems are
1. Our intakes unlike the intakes of 30+ years ago are not designed to flow liquids.. this causes puddling.. this can cause a intake explosion and or fire..
2. another side effect of a air only intake trying to flow fuel is that some cylinders with get inconsistent A/F ratios..
Most of the problems with a dry system is the setup.. The stock injectors are not a good idea for a dry setup, you are better off going with bigger injectors and retuning the car for the bigger injector.. one of the things that can cause a lean condition with a dry kit is injectors that can not flow the needed amount of fuel. another problem that can cause a lean condition is the way typical dry systems operate.. trying to trick the pcm to demand the added fuel needed for larger shots of nitrous is doomed for failure..
the reason why wet kits are popular is because of ease of install and setup.. The tuning of the car does not need to be messed with to run larger amounts of nitrous (100-150 and above) and the expense of tuning and larger injectors is not needed.. For most people the wet kit is the way to go, a flawed but inexpensive way to go.
the wet kit problems are
1. Our intakes unlike the intakes of 30+ years ago are not designed to flow liquids.. this causes puddling.. this can cause a intake explosion and or fire..
2. another side effect of a air only intake trying to flow fuel is that some cylinders with get inconsistent A/F ratios..
Most of the problems with a dry system is the setup.. The stock injectors are not a good idea for a dry setup, you are better off going with bigger injectors and retuning the car for the bigger injector.. one of the things that can cause a lean condition with a dry kit is injectors that can not flow the needed amount of fuel. another problem that can cause a lean condition is the way typical dry systems operate.. trying to trick the pcm to demand the added fuel needed for larger shots of nitrous is doomed for failure..
the reason why wet kits are popular is because of ease of install and setup.. The tuning of the car does not need to be messed with to run larger amounts of nitrous (100-150 and above) and the expense of tuning and larger injectors is not needed.. For most people the wet kit is the way to go, a flawed but inexpensive way to go.
Stark77
Member
That's what the remote bottle opener is for. Also - it's not too stealth to get out of your car, open the trunk, and then hop back in, purge, and go. Also - if you're working with a WOT switch, you shouldn't get the fuel puddling. A Fogger kit, which injects nitrous into each seperate cylinder, can also alleviate this problem. I ran a Typhoon intake manifold, which is pretty much bombproof. $1000.00 will make your car nitrous-safe.
Similar threads
