LED tail light help

[bdepedro]

I have the Shelby tail light conversion and have big-time voltage drop problems because I'm running a total of 6 tail light bulbs as opposed to the original 2.

I want to get some LED light panels but am not sure if there are major differences between manufacturers. These are the ones I'm most considering:

The Mustang Shop

Anybody using these or others they would either recommend for or against using?

Thanks!

 

[65fastbackresto]

I got mine from Mustang Project

In TX, they got a website, seem to be good parts too. I went the full light bars on mine though.

 

[chepsk8]

The added load caused by the extra bulbs has long been s Shelby problem. The cars kill turn signal switches, and emphasize the need for PERFECT electrical connections, EVERYTHING grounded, and a healthy battery/alternator. First step is to cover that.

The LED's will reduce the load somewhat, but most have a resistor in them to replicate the load of a standard bulb so the flasher works.

I work with many shelby owners on this, as I am SAAC's Sequential answer-man.

Did you add a sequential unit?

 

[BarnStang]

Chepsk8, haven't seen you post in awhile. Good to see you!
Exactly. Need to know the answer to that question first. We put the Scott Drake kit in a customer car, and theinstructions have you run a new wire from +12v source all the way back to the light modules. So I ran a nice big 10 gauge wire back there on a 20amp fuse. Man, are they bright. And sequence perfectly. If you don't hve a sequence kit, you could still run a wire back there, and run two relays, use the turn sig wires to key the relays. That would get bulbs full power.

 

[bdepedro]

Thanks for the response guys!

65 fastback: I was also looking at Mustang Projects' units. What do you mean by "full light bars"? What made you choose them?

CheapSk8: I've actually rewired the entire taillight panel twice but just from within the trunk. The ground seemed fine but I'll rewire them again as I should only need 1 connection per side and will just run a new ground.

Barnstang: I think I'll add the LEDs regardless but do some rewiring at the same time. I don't have sequencers now but will order them in the LEDs but the sequencer is part of the panels in some.

Thinking a brake light relay would help I installed one but didn't have a big effect since the 12V still travels through the turn signal switch. I wonder if I could take the relay off the brake switch and install it after the turn signal switch? I guess I would need 3 relays; stop signal, right turn and left turn. Would that make sense?

Eventually I'll rewire w/ a Painless chassic kit but that may be awhile down the road.

 

[65fastbackresto]

The T-bird tail light bars.

Like the shelbys had, like a foot long on each side.

Mustang Project - Product Display

 

[bdepedro]

Like the shelbys had, like a foot long on each side.

Mustang Project - Product Display

Do you mean the full shelby taillight panel that goes over the original panel w/o cutting?

 

[65fastbackresto]

No mine just bolted in the original holes.

There wasn`t a "panel". They just bolted right on, if yours is a 65 or 66, its just bolt on, 67 or later I think are too, but you better double check.

 

[Tim65GT]

bdepedro:

LED tail light help

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have the Shelby tail light conversion and have big-time voltage drop problems because I'm running a total of 6 tail light bulbs as opposed to the original 2.

I want to get some LED light panels but am not sure if there are major differences between manufacturers. These are the ones I'm most considering:

The Mustang Shop

Anybody using these or others they would either recommend for or against using?

Thanks!

I while back I modded my standard housings to fit three 1157 bulbs. it made the car safer, because the tail lamps and brake lamps where a LOT more noticeable, but the voltage drop was taxing the system when sitting at a long light with my foot on the brake.

A year ago I swapped to a LED set-up, a lot like the one you linked, but I purchased mine from Virginia Classics Mustang. They are made by North-West Mustangs and have the electronic flasher module. They have 28 5mm Super Bright LEDs per section for a total of 84 per board.

The module was easy to hook up as it simply required a ground in addition to the old flasher wires and the kit requires no additional wires to be run to the back.

They are very bright, and I have had no issues so far. The signal sequencing is pretty cool and when you apply the brakes, all three sections come on together.

By the way, if you do re-wire for LEDs, 18 gauge wire is more than enough as they draw WAY less power than 1157 bulbs! I'm thinking about getting matching LED Lamps for the front.

 

[bdepedro]

That is the exact problem I have been having, fine until you're on the brakes for a little while.

I've seen the units by NW Mustang. I'll check into them a little further but glad to hear you have had success w/ the problem. Good to know on the wire gauge as well. Thanks.

65 fastback: I've seen the lights you're talking about. I think they did a piece on them in Mustangs Monthly. Very cool. I wish mine were like that but mine has a fiberglass panel and changes the location of the license plate to a flip down over the gas filler. Eventually I may convert back to the original light panel because 1) I like the '70 lights, 2) I also like the gas filler caps on vintage stangs, 3) I don't like the cheezy license plate lamps on the '69/70 Shelbys and 4) the old license plate location under the bumper is still there and unfilled.

 

[65fastbackresto]

You said something about voltage drop.

Can`t you just run the new LED style bulbs that plug into an 1157 socket? I`ve got them on the front turn signals on my car, pretty cool, only $13 each and I dont think they draw much power either.

 

[bdepedro]

Can`t you just run the new LED style bulbs that plug into an 1157 socket? I`ve got them on the front turn signals on my car, pretty cool, only $13 each and I dont think they draw much power either.

I don't know. I saw them the other day at Advance and thought about it. Do you know what the wattage is for each LED bulb?

 

[Tim65GT]

bdepedro

I don't know. I saw them the other day at Advance and thought about it. Do you know what the wattage is for each LED bulb?

Very small amount of current draw. These 19 LED Assemblies only draw .066 Amps!

12 and 19 LED 1156/57 SPECIFICATIONS

Even though they are wide angle, they will still look like a bright round spot behind the lens. If you are concerned with safety and current draw only, these would be good. If you care how it looks and how it fills the lens assembly, then you would probably want to go with the board mounted type. Either way isn't cheap.

 

[65fastbackresto]

bdepedro

Tim65GT is one of the smartest guys on here man, you can trust anything he tells you. He has gotten me out of a couple of jams too, he knows his stuff.

 

[bdepedro]

Well I'm no electrical engineer so I really appreciate the info. Sounds like the boards are the way to go for me. I want it all: lower voltage drop, brighter lights, fully lit lense, and sequential turn signals.

Yeah, it's not cheap, but what is with these old cars. Little bit at a time helps.

 

[bdepedro]

One more question. I notice that most of the LED boards have clear lights. The LED plug in bulbs come in colors, like red. What is the effect through red lenses? The only LED panels I see in red are from Scott Drake and they are just of '65-'78.

 

[Tim65GT]

65fastbackresto:

bdepedro

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim65GT is one of the smartest guys on here man, you can trust anything he tells you. He has gotten me out of a couple of jams too, he knows his stuff.

Gee, Thanks

I don't know everything, but a little about most and a lot about some, like electrical stuff. LOL. Most I learned from doing it on my Stang and other cars.

bdepedro:

One more question. I notice that most of the LED boards have clear lights. The LED plug in bulbs come in colors, like red. What is the effect through red lenses? The only LED panels I see in red are from Scott Drake and they are just of '65-'78.

I've never tried to see what a red LED would look like through a red lens, but I would imagine it would just be dimmer. Kinda like putting on two pair of sunglasses.

I think the red and amber LED's are for those wanting the Euro-look with clear lenses, but you still get the law abiding correct color.

 

[bdepedro]

That sounds logical because I believe Scott Drake also makes clear lenses for the '65-66. See, you do know everything!

 

[Rusty67]

Just a suguestion on approaching this from a different angle. If the problem is not enough power at idle then how about a 3G alternator ? I noticed my head lights use to dim at a stop and after the 3G was installed, they don't do that anymore and I don't even have relays in for them yet.

Installing front headlight relays and running a power wire directly back to the front are both good ideas but if your alternator is puting out enough juice then maybe it wont matter ?

 

[bdepedro]

Just a suguestion on approaching this from a different angle. If the problem is not enough power at idle then how about a 3G alternator ? I noticed my head lights use to dim at a stop and after the 3G was installed, they don't do that anymore and I don't even have relays in for them yet.

Installing front headlight relays and running a power wire directly back to the front are both good ideas but if your alternator is puting out enough juice then maybe it wont matter ?

I had very dim headlights as well and installed a headlight relay which helped a lot. The do still dim some at idle though. What is involved w/ a 3G alternator? Just bolt in? Is there a wiring difference? Are there any down sides to higher output?