Opinions On 'Top End Bolt Ons'

[cenok is family]

I prefer long tubes personally, I've had em on every muscle car I've ever owned. I just love the sound they make.

i'm a longtube guy as well. i had them on my first car which was a 70 chevelle, as well as every mustang i've owned except my first one, an 87 GT.

 

[stykthyn]

I even went out and bought a set for my 04 ram when they became available.
nothing makes a v8 growl like a set of LT's.

 

[NIKwoaC]

OK, I've got a couple thoughts for ya, after reading through this thread:

1. I see your car is still SD. Does it still have the stock 19lb injectors? I imagine they are running on the ragged edge with your combo, and after you install headers and a new TB, you run the risk of leaning your motor out way too far. I encourage upgrading your fuel system before or at the same time you go to a bigger TB and/or a new cam. Switching to MAF and 24lb injectors would be ideal, but a cheaper method would be to just use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, bump the pressure in your system to 42psi+, and hope you get close enough for the computer to compensate.

2. Equal length headers are supposed to be worth another 5 hp or so over unequal. They are a clearance nightmare, but in my experience don't make changing the spark plugs as difficult as you'd think. You'll just have clearance issues with the steering shaft and/or the chassis on the passenger side. They are also a pain in the ass to install. With either choice, you won't be disappointed with the performance results.

 

[Makdaddymac]

okay, im interested in the FPR...
considering i have to remoe my top intake manifold to retourqe my lower manifold(not looking forward to this).
so with that off i can easily install a FPR, or can it be done without removing the top manifold???

so my next mods should go, so far i really only want the headers,but maybe the bigger tb is needed as well.......just want to do one at a time cause of funds are nothing for the 5.0....... headers are easy to get around here in orlando for some reason.... but which of the two would be better for noticeable power...

1) headers
2) f.p.r.
3) TB.

 

[stykthyn]

headers and you have pm

 

[Boostedpimp]

go with the unequal length headers...

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Anyways my question or purpose of this thread is to ask, am i really selling my self short with my mods. i mean some afr's would have been about 500 extra but i see people making 300hp with just afr's and a cheap typhoon intake although the gt40 intake flows good i dont think im making close to 300hp which is my goal...... i think im at 250whp...maybe higher ...

250whp sounds about right and you should be able to get low/mid 13's with your current set-up. There's plenty of room for improvement though and I'd suggest the following:

1. AFR 165 pedestal-mount heads.
2. 70mm TB.
3. 24lb injectors.
4. 190lph fuel pump.
5. Long tube headers.
6. Convert to later Fox MAF set-up with computer.

You'll notice I didn't suggest a cam 'cause the stock cam/1.7 roller rocker set-up is pretty good as it is. With all the items listed above you should reach your 300whp goal and get mid 12's.

 

[ryan218]

I wish I got mine for 100

i paid 50 for mine

 

[25thmustang]

$100 for my long tubes, best mod Ive done so far .

 

[NIKwoaC]

AFPR is not going to net you much power, if any at all. I'm just concerned that your engine might be running dangerously lean, especially after even more changes.

If you have the opportunity to grab the latest issue of MM&FF, they do a budget build of a 302 with Thumper ported E7s, they made around 250 RWHP IIRC, and the 19lb squirters were running at 100% duty cycle. Not good.

 

[stykthyn]

i paid 50 for mine

yeah and I remember that they looked like crap and you had to pay a shop to straighten them out because they would not stop leaking.

I paid 350 for a set of ceramic coated bbk lt's. still in box and never been used.
I also have a set of Summit brand Lt's that I paid 75 for, but they have been used. I will probably sell them or save them for a future project.

 

[strtrcr50]

NJ will fail you for inspection with longtubes if they are paying attention that day.

 

[cenok is family]

AFPR is not going to net you much power, if any at all. I'm just concerned that your engine might be running dangerously lean, especially after even more changes.

If you have the opportunity to grab the latest issue of MM&FF, they do a budget build of a 302 with Thumper ported E7s, they made around 250 RWHP IIRC, and the 19lb squirters were running at 100% duty cycle. Not good.

not trying to thread jack...i don't get mm&ff anymore...just out of curiosity, what else was in their combo? i have thumper's in my combo, and i already pulled 256rwhp and my air/fuel is a retarded 10.3:1, so i still have plenty left on the table when i get that sorted out. i should be around 270ish, hopefully, when all's said and done, as far as fixing my a/f goes. and i know my exhaust is holding me back some, you guys would laugh at the ghetto-ness that is my exhaust if you saw it. so hopefully even a little more after i replace all that.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

What are you Thumper headed guys running with basic bolt-ons?

Also, you ~250hp guys, what are you running?

As far as needing 300hp to run 12s, i'm really skeptical that i'm making that much at the wheels and i'm already at 12.83 and the car won't hook to save its life. I know it's got at least 12.50s in it if it'll hook, so you HP guessers out there, what do you think i'm making?


Here's mods:

Original unrebuilt '85 302, gobs of miles
'69 351W heads, ported and polished with 1.94/1.60 valves
Holly 650DP 4V carburetor w/mechanical secondaries
Motorsport intake (same as Edelbrock Victor Jr.)
X303 cam
MAC Full Length Headers
Dr. Gas offroad X pipe
Magnaflow cat-back
Tremec 3550 five speed transmission
Pro 5.0 Power Tower shifter
FRPP King Cobra clutch
FRPP billet flywheel
FRPP aluminum adj. quadrant
FRPP aluminum drive shaft
FRPP subframe connectors
FRPP A/C delete kit/short belt
K+N air filter (actually no filter at all at the moment)
Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm sparkplug wires
Malory Comp 9000 distributor
3G alternator
Optima Yellow Top battery
Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan
Eibach Pro Kit springs w/ Energy Suspension spring isolators
Energy Suspension anti-swaybar endlinks
3.73 gears
Dry weight without driver = 2880lbs

 

[25thmustang]

258/295 to the tire, unported E7s, stock cam, Cobra intake, all the bolt ons, 3.73s...

12.56 @ 105.8 on slicks
12.87 @ 111.5 on DRs (we all know the mph might be a fluke)
12.95 @ 106.0 on radials

Car weighs 3150-3200 (3130 on the DRs, I forget when I ran slicks) and usually traps 107 mph. It was going consistent 109 mph on the radials at the second to last event.

 

[Makdaddymac]

25th wtf! either you can drive and your car is jut built for tough
or my car is 12sec flat maybe even 11.99 possible. i should be right at your hp mark too if not higher?

and after i found out that 8cyclinders x 19punds x .90 percent duty cycle/ .5 for NA engines = 273 max hp for 19 punds injectors..... and 25th is 12hp away from that with his mod...... i definately need 24 pound injectors huh!????

1)my next question is it possible to tickle 300hp with my mods plus...
70mm tb,headers,24 pund injectors
2) are 24ound injectors Speed Density Compatable

 

[25thmustang]

well I have NO idea why the car runs like it does, but I will say...

I have dynoed 272/316 with this motor with a different exhaust but still the stock 19s. They are probably at their max, but I dont have 24s to change them with, so the 19s stay.

I would say 260-270 to the tire with your combo is a good start. 300 rwhp is not hard with GT40s either, Ive known a lot of guys who have done it, and also they made massive tq, sometimes 330+

 

[Makdaddymac]

right we have the same exact mods even rear ratio!!!
except the my gt40 heads to your Long tubes....

300hp isnt far for sure then,i have to have at least 20-30hp on yah (if i don't heads were a waste of money),also all this news meaning my injectors are running hard i couldve sworn 19pounds were good for about 350hp....boy was i wrong!

what mm TB you running? maybe that MAF is helping too

1)my next question is it possible to tickle 300hp; with my mods plus 70mm tb,headers,24 pund injectors
1.5)basically how much will the mods give me, an extra 15hp?

2) are 24ound injectors Speed Density Compatable

 

[NIKwoaC]

not trying to thread jack...i don't get mm&ff anymore...just out of curiosity, what else was in their combo? i have thumper's in my combo, and i already pulled 256rwhp and my air/fuel is a retarded 10.3:1, so i still have plenty left on the table when i get that sorted out. i should be around 270ish, hopefully, when all's said and done, as far as fixing my a/f goes. and i know my exhaust is holding me back some, you guys would laugh at the ghetto-ness that is my exhaust if you saw it. so hopefully even a little more after i replace all that.

I don't have the magazine in front of me, but from what I remember, they had a Cobra intake manifold, a 65 or 70mm TB, FRPP roller rockers, shorty headers, and an off-the-shelf cam. The car also had some sort of an aftermarket MAF meter, but as far as everything else in the fuel system , I believe was all stock. The car may have received a high-flow fuel pump, but I can't verify that right now. I don't remember what their A/F was, but that fact that their 19lb squirters were running 100% duty cycle stuck out in my brain, and probably indicated that they were stretching to keep the A/F in check. I've seen charts before that indicate 19lb injectors can only support a little less than 300 crank HP, so it stands to reason that combo is probably close to the breaking point. Now, if you bump the fuel pressure up a few points, you can stretch that limit, so your case might be different. Of course, there are always the environment variables that can affect A/F too, like air temp and barometric pressure, so I dunno.

 

[25thmustang]

Mak, I run a 65mm Tbody and a 75mm MAF.

Your never going to guess a power, just have to wait and dyno it. You might be surprised, you might not.