Exhaust
- Thread starter jmsdell82
- Start date
I wouldn't say cat back, more like header back.
If your keeping the stock 289 then I would recommend the HiPo manifolds.
If you want a good sounding free flowing exhaust, go with an H pipe after the headers and Magnaflow or Dynomax Ultraflo straight through mufflers.
Take a look at this thread.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/763314-flowmaster-vs-magnaflow-mufflers.html
If you search the classic forums for mufflers or exhaust, you should get quite a few threads.
I had Flowmasters on mine for a little while and on the highway on longer trips I just couldn't stand the resonating. I used to like them at first, but they have a hollow sound that sounds artificial and exagerated. I would rather have glasspacks now.
In my opinion, Flowmaster sucks. After switching to the Dynomax mufflers it feels that the Mustang runs better. Also, After switching to a Magnaflow on my F150, it seems it runs better too.
I did alot of reading and almost everything I have read shows that Flowmaster is one of the worst flowing mufflers available. I think a regular old turbo muffler flows better.
Straight through flows better than chambered anyway. Whatever you go with your probably best off with 2.25 exhaust. If your reworking the heads and adding a cam etc then 2.5 would probably suit your needs better.
Here is mine with Dynomax Ultras.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXk_MVV7V0g
I was considering the Arvinode setup. Its a reproduction of what the HiPo K codes had.
http://www.waldronexhaust.com/arvinodedualexhaust.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnFXyLgcvLg
If your keeping the stock 289 then I would recommend the HiPo manifolds.
If you want a good sounding free flowing exhaust, go with an H pipe after the headers and Magnaflow or Dynomax Ultraflo straight through mufflers.
Take a look at this thread.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/763314-flowmaster-vs-magnaflow-mufflers.html
If you search the classic forums for mufflers or exhaust, you should get quite a few threads.
I had Flowmasters on mine for a little while and on the highway on longer trips I just couldn't stand the resonating. I used to like them at first, but they have a hollow sound that sounds artificial and exagerated. I would rather have glasspacks now.
In my opinion, Flowmaster sucks. After switching to the Dynomax mufflers it feels that the Mustang runs better. Also, After switching to a Magnaflow on my F150, it seems it runs better too.
I did alot of reading and almost everything I have read shows that Flowmaster is one of the worst flowing mufflers available. I think a regular old turbo muffler flows better.
Straight through flows better than chambered anyway. Whatever you go with your probably best off with 2.25 exhaust. If your reworking the heads and adding a cam etc then 2.5 would probably suit your needs better.
Here is mine with Dynomax Ultras.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXk_MVV7V0g
I was considering the Arvinode setup. Its a reproduction of what the HiPo K codes had.
http://www.waldronexhaust.com/arvinodedualexhaust.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnFXyLgcvLg
If you keep the engine stock, you should still port-match the exhaust ports. The stock iron head ports, especially 67 and later, were horrible, and big duals are a waste of money unless you do that. 2.25" is as large as you should go, even 2" is fine on a stock engine. The A code 289 4V didn't even get dual exhaust from the factory, on non-GT cars.
After years of headers on my driver, I switched to 289HP manifolds, the power loss was minimal at higher rpm, and at normal street rpm, never noticed any.
Make sure you have an H pipe, whatever you do, that's good for 5-15 hp.
After years of headers on my driver, I switched to 289HP manifolds, the power loss was minimal at higher rpm, and at normal street rpm, never noticed any.
Make sure you have an H pipe, whatever you do, that's good for 5-15 hp.
S-Car-Go
Member
If you are on a tight budget, I'd go hipo manifolds. If you can afford GOOD headers, I'd go that way. By "good", I mean ball and socket at the lower connection, 3/8" flange up top and heavy duty tubing with ceramic coating. And doesn't hang low. I'm not talking about tri-y's.
In preparation for installing a stroker, I did my exhaust on a bone stock 289. I was planning on pulling the motor later and didn't want to mess with the old exhaust and a new motor. I installed some FPA 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" step headers with 2 1/2 mid pipe and 2 1/4" tail pipes to keep it quiet. My jaw dropped at the increase in power with a stock 289. You could feel the difference driving off the lift at the muffler shop. This went against everything that I believed and I never would have suggested it if I hadn't felt the difference for myself. Maybe it was the scavanging from the step headers, maybe something else, but it was a shocker.
In preparation for installing a stroker, I did my exhaust on a bone stock 289. I was planning on pulling the motor later and didn't want to mess with the old exhaust and a new motor. I installed some FPA 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" step headers with 2 1/2 mid pipe and 2 1/4" tail pipes to keep it quiet. My jaw dropped at the increase in power with a stock 289. You could feel the difference driving off the lift at the muffler shop. This went against everything that I believed and I never would have suggested it if I hadn't felt the difference for myself. Maybe it was the scavanging from the step headers, maybe something else, but it was a shocker.
S-Car-Go
Member
BTW What came off was: stock log manifolds, 2" down pipes, jumped to 2 1/4 by the trans, no crossover, flow masters dumped in front of the rear end. VERY LOUD!
So, you had a loud exhaust, with absolutely no performance benefits. Was the seller over 18?
You'd be better off with the stock exhaust. 2 1/4" exhaust is a waste of time on your stock engine. Heck, unless you modify the engine, dual exhaust is a waste of time.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
my suggestion for what you've described would be 2 1/4 inch pipe, with "H" and 24 inch glass packs.
Anything shorter will be "loud", anything much longer and you won't really be able to enjoy the money you just spent.
Once you get past the narrative, (skip towards the last 60 seconds)
you will hear what I mean.
ForStewart708.flv video by woodsnake4462838 - Photobucket
Might not be "great for performance", but it will sound cool......
Anything shorter will be "loud", anything much longer and you won't really be able to enjoy the money you just spent.
Once you get past the narrative, (skip towards the last 60 seconds)
you will hear what I mean.
ForStewart708.flv video by woodsnake4462838 - Photobucket
Might not be "great for performance", but it will sound cool......
Are you going to do anything else to the motor or leave it the way it is ? Might as well get the exhaust your going to end up with now instead of spending the money 2 or 3 times.
I'd say 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" pipe depending on your end goals. Mandril bent systems are the way to go. An X is going to yield a slightly more mellow sound and breathe better up top where as an H is going to give a meaner sound and slightly better low end torque. Over all performance usually does not change by more then 1 or 2 hp/ft lbs between the two types of setups.
I'd go with Magnaflows if you want a somewhat quieter sound or Dynamax if you want a lound/nasty/mean sound.
S-Car-Go
Member
2+2, Although I respect your knowledge of vintage mustangs, I have to disagree with you on the exhaust. Opening it up made a huge difference. It drove one way to the muffler shop and was a totally different car driving it home. I would have agreed with you the day before.
Of course the 331 that's in there now made a bigger difference. And yes, the seller was 18-20 yr old. The stereo can drown out the motor and ALL road noise at 80 mph with the top down. LOL (800 watts, 4 speakers, and a pair of 12" subs)
Of course the 331 that's in there now made a bigger difference. And yes, the seller was 18-20 yr old. The stereo can drown out the motor and ALL road noise at 80 mph with the top down. LOL (800 watts, 4 speakers, and a pair of 12" subs)
If you are willing to ditch the stock manifolds for some HP manifolds, pull the heads and port-match the exhaust ports, 2" or 2.25" duals will definitely be a benefit. Short of that, you mostly just get more noise. It sounds faster, though.
I like the long glasspacks too. They sound deep and mellow. I don't know if they hurt performance much or not, but they probably still flow better than chambered mufflers, since they are straight through.
68stang351
Founding Member
I don't have this kit, but I really like Flowmaster's American Thunder kit.
Here it is on FordMuscle.com's project car.
YouTube - 1967 Mustang with Flowmaster Exhaust
Here it is on FordMuscle.com's project car.
YouTube - 1967 Mustang with Flowmaster Exhaust
What i would like to do is put some basic bolt on's to the car. I have 2 289's. I was considering getting one bored and honed and then going from their. But edelbrock sells this nice kit for about 2 thousand that is said to give the car 367/340 hp/tq. I do not know if you know much of this kit (reliability, etc) or suggest something else. Thank you for your input.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edel...Accessories?hash=item1c0fc4be37#ht_4215wt_810
What are the hipo manifolds?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edel...Accessories?hash=item1c0fc4be37#ht_4215wt_810
What are the hipo manifolds?
woodsnake
15 Year Member
I have that same cam in my 68, and I like it. It was my first full engine build, and am over all happy with the performance. The car sure is a hoot to drive around town! I also have a pair of the 60259 heads waiting to go on.
You will need custom length push rods with that cam. At least, I did. I think you would be happier with the 2.02 heads, VS the 1.90's as advertised.
"HP manifolds" are High Performance manifolds. The easy way to get "HP" manifolds is to bolt a pair of 351W manifolds up. I would recommend long tube (LT) headers, rather than cast iron.
It's your car, build it the way you want, but it will help if you have clear cut set goals in mind before you spend any dough!
Almost every body on here has gone thru a huge learning curve, and most are willing to help just for the sake of the hobby.
Also, when you change the cam, you will need to change the rear end gears as well. If it's only a cruiser, and still see's lots of high way time, stick to a cam in the .450~ range. That is about as much as you can go without changing the rear end gears, or needing a new torque converter.
You will need custom length push rods with that cam. At least, I did. I think you would be happier with the 2.02 heads, VS the 1.90's as advertised.
"HP manifolds" are High Performance manifolds. The easy way to get "HP" manifolds is to bolt a pair of 351W manifolds up. I would recommend long tube (LT) headers, rather than cast iron.
It's your car, build it the way you want, but it will help if you have clear cut set goals in mind before you spend any dough!
Almost every body on here has gone thru a huge learning curve, and most are willing to help just for the sake of the hobby.
Also, when you change the cam, you will need to change the rear end gears as well. If it's only a cruiser, and still see's lots of high way time, stick to a cam in the .450~ range. That is about as much as you can go without changing the rear end gears, or needing a new torque converter.
