Anybody know how many amps a Taurus fan pulls?
- Thread starter LarsD
- Start date
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
The problem is startup current draw. For ~0.01seconds, the fan/motor will draw over 100amps. For cheap, or under rated, relays that causes pitting on the relay contacts. That pitting gets worse over time.
I know very well how SUPER MEGA *****ED someone is if/when their electric fan dies! That's one reason why I'll never ever use a POS aftermarket electric fan again - EVER! Hey, if someone has a POS car/engine that they don't give a rat's *** if it blows up, or if they get stranded in the middle of nowhere, then fine - go ahead and buy/use a POS aftermarket fan!
Uhm, the point?
An OEM fan is good, But, it's still only as good as it's weakest link. In the case of a 30amp relay on a Taurus fan, that's the weak link. IMHO, it's not worth it.
NAPA sells an 80 amp continuous duty relay for ~$60.
NAPA ECH ST85 Relay
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH ST85
Price: 58.49
For 12 Volt Systems, Continuous Duty, 80 Amp, Insulated Base, Flat Bracket, Coil 16-21 Ohms Same As ST80 Except Has Copper Contacts; NAPA Echlin Products Meet Or Exceed Original Equipment Specifications. All Products Are Top-Of-The-Line Quality, & 100% Tested & Inspected In An Environment That Is IS09000 Compliant.
I know very well how SUPER MEGA *****ED someone is if/when their electric fan dies! That's one reason why I'll never ever use a POS aftermarket electric fan again - EVER! Hey, if someone has a POS car/engine that they don't give a rat's *** if it blows up, or if they get stranded in the middle of nowhere, then fine - go ahead and buy/use a POS aftermarket fan!
Uhm, the point?
An OEM fan is good, But, it's still only as good as it's weakest link. In the case of a 30amp relay on a Taurus fan, that's the weak link. IMHO, it's not worth it.NAPA sells an 80 amp continuous duty relay for ~$60.
NAPA ECH ST85 Relay
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH ST85
Price: 58.49
For 12 Volt Systems, Continuous Duty, 80 Amp, Insulated Base, Flat Bracket, Coil 16-21 Ohms Same As ST80 Except Has Copper Contacts; NAPA Echlin Products Meet Or Exceed Original Equipment Specifications. All Products Are Top-Of-The-Line Quality, & 100% Tested & Inspected In An Environment That Is IS09000 Compliant.
The problem is startup current draw. For ~0.01seconds, the fan/motor will draw over 100amps. For cheap, or under rated, relays that causes pitting on the relay contacts. That pitting gets worse over time.
I know very well how SUPER MEGA *****ED someone is if/when their electric fan dies! That's one reason why I'll never ever use a POS aftermarket electric fan again - EVER! Hey, if someone has a POS car/engine that they don't give a rat's *** if it blows up, or if they get stranded in the middle of nowhere, then fine - go ahead and buy/use a POS aftermarket fan!
Uhm, the point?
NAPA sells an 80 amp continuous duty relay for ~$60.
NAPA ECH ST85 Relay
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH ST85
Price: 58.49
For 12 Volt Systems, Continuous Duty, 80 Amp, Insulated Base, Flat Bracket, Coil 16-21 Ohms Same As ST80 Except Has Copper Contacts; NAPA Echlin Products Meet Or Exceed Original Equipment Specifications. All Products Are Top-Of-The-Line Quality, & 100% Tested & Inspected In An Environment That Is IS09000 Compliant.
That's the exact relay I have now. Obviously I can only operate one speed at a time with it though.
if you spent 60 on a relay, why wouldnt you just spend 70+ for a good fan controller?
i use to have mine on a toggle, now i have a dcc controller. so nice to just sit there and watch it take care of the cooling. i still have a manual switch wired in should i ever need it/for the track too.
i use to have mine on a toggle, now i have a dcc controller. so nice to just sit there and watch it take care of the cooling. i still have a manual switch wired in should i ever need it/for the track too.
I ordered a DCC controller 3 weeks ago. However I have no idea when it is going to show up. This is just a temporary solution. The relay is off my old 89 that had a Taurus fan years ago.
ahh gotcha. i hear you on the controller. thats why i waited to buy one new that i didnt have to wait for
ahh gotcha. i hear you on the controller. thats why i waited to buy one new that i didnt have to wait for
Yeah I was looking at it all apart. I stood there thinking about the wiring I was going to have to run into the passenger compartment, and I just put it back together. Knowing how things go the controller will show up Monday.
The problem is startup current draw. For ~0.01seconds, the fan/motor will draw over 100amps. For cheap, or under rated, relays that causes pitting on the relay contacts. That pitting gets worse over time.
I know very well how SUPER MEGA *****ED someone is if/when their electric fan dies! That's one reason why I'll never ever use a POS aftermarket electric fan again - EVER! Hey, if someone has a POS car/engine that they don't give a rat's *** if it blows up, or if they get stranded in the middle of nowhere, then fine - go ahead and buy/use a POS aftermarket fan!
Uhm, the point?
NAPA sells an 80 amp continuous duty relay for ~$60.
NAPA ECH ST85 Relay
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH ST85
Price: 58.49
For 12 Volt Systems, Continuous Duty, 80 Amp, Insulated Base, Flat Bracket, Coil 16-21 Ohms Same As ST80 Except Has Copper Contacts; NAPA Echlin Products Meet Or Exceed Original Equipment Specifications. All Products Are Top-Of-The-Line Quality, & 100% Tested & Inspected In An Environment That Is IS09000 Compliant.
Any info on how to wire this up?
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
During my google search for a wiring diagram, I also came across:
Wrangler NW - Isolation Relay
200 amp continuous duty, 1000 amp in-rush isolation solenoid.
Part Number:29-983
Shipping Weight:2 LBS.
Price: $71.95
Wrangler NW - Isolation Relay
200 amp continuous duty, 1000 amp in-rush isolation solenoid.
Part Number:29-983
Shipping Weight:2 LBS.
Price: $71.95
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
As long as you have a good relay for the high-speed, and plan on changing out the low-speed relay, then I'd say try the 30amp relay now.
BTW: With a relay controlling an,inductive load (i.e. motor), you should always have a reverse protection diode. Otherwise, nasty things can happen.
High-level description (but good enough):
From wikipedia:
When the coil is energized with direct current, a diode is often placed across the coil to dissipate the energy from the collapsing magnetic field at deactivation, which would otherwise generate a voltage spike dangerous to circuit components. Some automotive relays already include a diode inside the relay case.
You don't really need 2-speed fan operation. I mean it's slick and all. But a good controller and high speed is all you really need
I think I ran only the low speed on my old 89 and its 306. That was with a 3 core brass. This little one inch core rad I got from Autozone sucks. I would have gone with another three core like I did before, but it was too thick and the shroud interfered with the fan (that now needs replacing anyway). With the A/C on it'll hover right at 210 (195 stat) when I'm stuck at a light. Course we've been having 100+ degree days down here on a pretty regular basis. My old 89 always stuck right at 185ish (180 stat), but then again the A/C never worked on it.
A typical (non-balanced) 195* t-stat might not open fully till 205* or so anyhow.
A Taurus fan should be more than capable. If temps are higher than desired, the stat is likely the limiting factor.
A Taurus fan should be more than capable. If temps are higher than desired, the stat is likely the limiting factor.
I plan to jump up to a three core rad when I install the Taurus fan, I was thinking about replacing the stat also while I was at it (I think it is the factory stat). Not sure if I want to go 180 or 195. I had a 180 in my old car, but that was a warmed over 306 with 10:1 compression.
