Nitrous question (about WOT switch)

[mob]

Hey guys, I just picked up a nitrous kit for a good price. It is an NX wet kit, it basically just came with the bottle, lines, and solenoids, and a purge. So I need to find out a way to activate this. I have searched as much as I can and I got the basics down so I was just wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction to achieve my goals.

First my main question is about the WOT switch. I want to get one, and I know I need one so I am wondering if you guys can link me to the correct switch because I cant find it. I read something about a switch that attatches to your throttle body and the flapper hits the switch or something? Where do they sell this? I would like to go as cheap as possible and and easy to install as possible, obviously I want something that works though.


I have an MSD 6AL ignition box already, and I am looking at their window switch so that I can activate the nitrous at around 3k rpm. I also plan on purchasing a bottle warmer and blow down tube. Aside from the plugs and timing issue is there anything else I am going to need to get this kit running right?

Also does anyone have any tips as to where to wire all this too? More specifically where can I get a good source to wire all these things too, I dont feel too comfortable putting a bunch of wires to the radio wire for a 12v switched source. I also have my electric fan and ignition box that need power. Should I find different sources for each thing? Any tips?

 

[Rick 91GT]

The cheap style switch that most kits come with is NX part number 15524 ($14.00), they also offer a TPS activated switch that goes off voltage PT#15961 ($107)

Nitrous Express (NX) 15524 - Nitrous Express Throttle Position Activation Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com

You can go to the starter solenoid for power....

Id suggest a bottle gauge or inside mount pressure gauges, proper bottle pressure is very important about 1050 lbs of pressure works very well. The Wilson/Pro-Flow bottles will make you faster, the valves and pick-ups are better designed then the NX, Compucar or N2O systems... I did a lot of testing...hehehe

The N2O controllers are very nice but they can be hard on solenoids, teflon plungers usually hold up better if you have issues and need to rebuild them.

What head is on the car?? I'll help you with plugs...

 

[90lxcoupe]

Id suggest a bottle gauge or inside mount pressure gauges, proper bottle pressure is very important about 1050 degrees works very well. The Wilson/Pro-Flow bottles will make you faster, the valves and pick-ups are better designed then the NX, Compucar or N2O systems... I did a lot of testing...hehehe

The N2O controllers are very nice but they can be hard on solenoids, teflon plungers usually hold up better if you have issues and need to rebuild them.

Why are they hard on the solenoids? And how much did you pick up from swapping to the wilson bottles?

 

[tannerc91gt]

get a window switch. to be honest, i absolutely hated the TPS activated kit i had. Its fine on an auto car but if youre taking your foot off the gas in a manual car its not ideal IMO. some of the TPS systems start coming in at 3/4 throttle. a lot of guys will run the tps switch to a button and "trick" the system, making it button activated, but window switches are ideal IMO. you can set it to come in at 3k to whatever you shift at and wont have to worry about it coming in and out etc. im sure others will have different opinions

 

[Rick 91GT]

J, its the way they regulate voltage, the proflow control is much easier on them and their noids hold up decent with great flow.

I was .3 faster consistently with the wilson bottle over any other brand. I had their cross bar plate shooting 600 for drag radial....but after I saw how fast the boosted combos were with out all the damage I sold it and got my F1R.
Jeff Prock also does some nice N2O stuff.

What r you running?

As far as the switch I went with the simple switch but eired it through the clutch safety switch so when I shifted it would go off. However I powrrshifted so it was rarely off...lol

 

[mob]

I am going to run a window switch AND a WOT switch. I think I may end up just going with a mechanical style WOT microswitch. What kind of switch do you run Rick?

I am going to the starter solenoid for power but I am looking for a switched 12V source. Should I just go into the ignition switch wire? Which color is the wire I need to tap into? Also what would be ideal for me is if I could connect say a 10 or 8 gauge wire from a switched source to a small fused distribution block that I can run a few small wires too. Is that possible?

I am going to be using gt40p heads, if you could give me some advice on plugs that would be great. The bottle also does have a pressure gauge on it.

I am using stock 93 bottom end, tfs stage 1 cam, and tfs street heat intake. I am going to start with a 50 shot, and move up to the 150. Basically I want to do the nitrous right as if it is my form of forced induction, I am not just throwing it on for kicks, this car is going to be mostly a track car.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I am going to run a window switch AND a WOT switch. I think I may end up just going with a mechanical style WOT microswitch. What kind of switch do you run Rick?

I am going to the starter solenoid for power but I am looking for a switched 12V source. Should I just go into the ignition switch wire? Which color is the wire I need to tap into? Also what would be ideal for me is if I could connect say a 10 or 8 gauge wire from a switched source to a small fused distribution block that I can run a few small wires too. Is that possible?

I am going to be using gt40p heads, if you could give me some advice on plugs that would be great. The bottle also does have a pressure gauge on it.

I am using stock 93 bottom end, tfs stage 1 cam, and tfs street heat intake. I am going to start with a 50 shot, and move up to the 150. Basically I want to do the nitrous right as if it is my form of forced induction, I am not just throwing it on for kicks, this car is going to be mostly a track car.

I ran the switch you had picture on my old EFI set-up, the $14 cheap micro WOT switch. You can pull the switched source from under the dash, there are a bunch of 12v switched wires near the fuse box, red, and I think a pink with Yellow stripe off the top of my head. you could run a source wire up, but you want to match the size wire you are tapping or soildering into, dont use a larger wire....

Damn stock style heads...lol I dont know those numbers off the top of my head, what plug do you run normally a Autolite 764?

The 50 shot will be on there one pass, trust me... I had my 125 on for 2 passes then went right to the 175...never looked back

 

[mob]

haha yea I plan on using the 50 to test it out and make sure its running good, then go to the 150. So for the wiring I could use a wire as a source as long as I dont go with a bigger wire, and make sure all the other wires going to it are the same size or smaller?

I guess I should have mentioned I am on a budget lol, for the heads I am using the stock autolite plugs for explorer heads, I think they are the 764's I forgot. Should I just go a couple numbers down? Would something like iridium be a better choice for nitrous? I am going to have to remove my headers in order to remove my plugs so, the spark plug game is something I am NOT looking forward to.

Also, I'd like to run some plugs that wont give me any issues driving N/A.

 

[srtthis]

The cheap style switch that most kits come with is NX part number 15524 ($14.00), they also offer a TPS activated switch that goes off voltage PT#15961 ($107)

Nitrous Express (NX) 15524 - Nitrous Express Throttle Position Activation Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com

You can go to the starter solenoid for power....

Id suggest a bottle gauge or inside mount pressure gauges, proper bottle pressure is very important about 1050 degrees works very well. The Wilson/Pro-Flow bottles will make you faster, the valves and pick-ups are better designed then the NX, Compucar or N2O systems... I did a lot of testing...hehehe

The N2O controllers are very nice but they can be hard on solenoids, teflon plungers usually hold up better if you have issues and need to rebuild them.

What head is on the car?? I'll help you with plugs...

wow... thats a hot bottle... we run them around 92* LOL

 

[srtthis]

haha yea I plan on using the 50 to test it out and make sure its running good, then go to the 150. So for the wiring I could use a wire as a source as long as I dont go with a bigger wire, and make sure all the other wires going to it are the same size or smaller?

I guess I should have mentioned I am on a budget lol, for the heads I am using the stock autolite plugs for explorer heads, I think they are the 764's I forgot. Should I just go a couple numbers down? Would something like iridium be a better choice for nitrous? I am going to have to remove my headers in order to remove my plugs so, the spark plug game is something I am NOT looking forward to.

Also, I'd like to run some plugs that wont give me any issues driving N/A.

NO IRIDIUMS! copper plugs only!

 

[Rick 91GT]

wow... thats a hot bottle... we run them around 92* LOL

yeah I fixed it now 1050 lbs of pressure

 

[srtthis]

god id love to see the coupe leave on 1050 bottle pressure. anything over 950 it just blows the 28w's off it..

 

[srtthis]

btw rick clean out your box!

 

[Rick 91GT]

btw rick clean out your box!

Empty...

Yeah I am sure you can't leave in the coupe on that bottle pressure, amazing what a few hundred pounds of pressure does? My car liked it, left hard and strong....

 

[srtthis]

Empty...

Yeah I am sure you can't leave in the coupe on that bottle pressure, amazing what a few hundred pounds of pressure does? My car liked it, left hard and strong....

1.16 on the rears i think is going to be pretty close to the limit

you coming down to import vs domestics? or SSOTN?

 

[gtcobra302]

I have got mine set up with a fuel pressure safety switch, when you hit the nitrous if your fuel pressure doesn't come up the nitrous won't spray, saved me one time when the vacuum line came off the regulator. I also have a WOT switch set up so when the peddle is about 3/4 open the WOT engages and shoots the nitrous. So the nitrous sprays when the throttle blade is open and only then. With that set up though it is tough to launch, probably gonna change it to a button.