Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Thanks guys.

@Noobz347, I'm going to be ceramic coating the entire car. It won't give me the rock chip protection that film will, but it will help with swirls and scratches. I've never actually seen our bumpers covered in film. I feel like they would be difficult to do considering the sharp curves of the molding along the bumper. I'll have to look into it a little more.
 
Thanks guys.

@Noobz347, I'm going to be ceramic coating the entire car. It won't give me the rock chip protection that film will, but it will help with swirls and scratches. I've never actually seen our bumpers covered in film. I feel like they would be difficult to do considering the sharp curves of the molding along the bumper. I'll have to look into it a little more.
Don't use it.
 
Don't put anything outside of a little carnuba wax on a fresh paint job for at least the first six months. It will seal in the solvents from just being painted and will lead to a failure in the paint system. Won't last nearly as long.
 
Don't put anything outside of a little carnuba wax on a fresh paint job for at least the first six months. It will seal in the solvents from just being painted and will lead to a failure in the paint system. Won't last nearly as long.
Oh okay. I thought you were referring to not using the clear bra stuff at all.

Don't you worry, the bumper will be breathing for a while before I put anything over it.
 
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Oh okay. I thought you were referring to not using the clear bra stuff at all.

Don't you worry, the bumper will be breathing for a while before I put anything over it.
The stickers are ok, the panel will heat up slightly more than with out it, that's about the worst of them.

Regular bras trap moisture and destroy paint.
 
Thanks guys.

@Noobz347, I'm going to be ceramic coating the entire car. It won't give me the rock chip protection that film will, but it will help with swirls and scratches. I've never actually seen our bumpers covered in film. I feel like they would be difficult to do considering the sharp curves of the molding along the bumper. I'll have to look into it a little more.

My biggest concern would be whether or not the film was clear enough to not inhibit the finish.

The once or twice that I have seen it applied, it is cut around the sharp and pointy portions. It covers leading edged and main panels from the previously mentioned rock chips.

I'm sure it won't be long (if not already) before someone has a coating you can dip the whole part into.
 
So the T56 Magnum install is underway. Now I know why they call it the Magnum. Summa bish is huge. Sitting next to the TKO-500 here.
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I'm going to chronicle the install here. I didn't find a whole lot of installation details with pictures online, so hopefully my experience will help others. Aligning the bellhousing with the Magnum is a little different than other transmissions because the bellhousing doesn't have a concentric circle that can be used to dial it in. The front plate of the transmission needs to be removed and then bolted to the bellhousing without the rest of the transmission behind it. First thing is to remove the detent bolt and spring.
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Once that is out, removing all the bolts on the plate will allow it to be removed. There are two pry spots on each side of the case that make removal with a screwdriver easy. Here's the plate off the trans. I already scraped off all the RTV that was sealing it to the case.
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Inside of the mighty Magnum.
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I then bolted up the bellhousing with just the flywheel installed. You can see why it's not possible to index this bellhousing without the front plate.
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I put the front plate in place and noticed it was crooked. After talking to some people, I'm told this is normal and that transmissions typically favor the driver. I had to stop at this point anyway because my dial indicator base is too thick and wont let me install the plate because the input shaft sleeve sits too close to the flywheel.
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Speaking of the input shaft sleeve, there is a lot of information on the internet that the sleeve needs to be shortened when using a twin disc clutch.
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After some measuring, I only have 1/8" clearance to the sleeve once both clutch discs are installed. I'm going to shorten the sleeve the 0.20" that I have seen recommended online.

The webbing of the front plate also needs to be trimmed back thanks to the extra space that the twin disc takes up. The clutch fork hits the plate in certain areas. The green spots are marked up for my machine shop. I'm going to have him shorten the sleeve and machine down those spots at the same time.
DSC_4088_zpssgpuh2pj.webp

Once the sleeve is machined, my dial indicator base will actually fit so I can get back to aligning the bellhousing.
 
Sorry I know this is a few months old but I'm currently putting a 2015 coyote with a t56 magnum in my 67 mustang and I'm reading up on this alignment discussion as this is new to me . My question is ..... Do I have to machine the webbing on the front plate if I'm using a Hydro throw out bearing? Or the only reason you had to is because you are using a fork?

Also I'm putting on a McLeod RST twin disk clutch will I have to also trim 0.20" off the sleeve? Thank you in advance
 
Sorry I know this is a few months old but I'm currently putting a 2015 coyote with a t56 magnum in my 67 mustang and I'm reading up on this alignment discussion as this is new to me . My question is ..... Do I have to machine the webbing on the front plate if I'm using a Hydro throw out bearing? Or the only reason you had to is because you are using a fork?

Also I'm putting on a McLeod RST twin disk clutch will I have to also trim 0.20" off the sleeve? Thank you in advance
PM me if you want/need that T/O bearing. I have a brand new Mccleod that I never used sitting in a box. Much cheaper than new.
 
We had to do no modifications to my t56 magnum / coyote swap - quicktime bell and centerforce dual friction (single) clutch and cable pedal, Ive heard otherwise with hydraulic.... also we just installed it without all the steps Scott took... hardest part is working the bell around the longtubes..... Tremec support has some very helpful guys there as well....
 
We had to do no modifications to my t56 magnum / coyote swap - quicktime bell and centerforce dual friction (single) clutch and cable pedal, Ive heard otherwise with hydraulic.... also we just installed it without all the steps Scott took... hardest part is working the bell around the longtubes..... Tremec support has some very helpful guys there as well....

We had to do no modifications to my t56 magnum / coyote swap - quicktime bell and centerforce dual friction (single) clutch and cable pedal, Ive heard otherwise with hydraulic.... also we just installed it without all the steps Scott took... hardest part is working the bell around the longtubes..... Tremec support has some very helpful guys there as well....


I was planning on using Dougs headers (for coyote swap) what did you end up using? Or what did you use? To make things work
 
Sorry I know this is a few months old but I'm currently putting a 2015 coyote with a t56 magnum in my 67 mustang and I'm reading up on this alignment discussion as this is new to me . My question is ..... Do I have to machine the webbing on the front plate if I'm using a Hydro throw out bearing? Or the only reason you had to is because you are using a fork?

Also I'm putting on a McLeod RST twin disk clutch will I have to also trim 0.20" off the sleeve? Thank you in advance

The webbing modifications was only because of the twin disc and the clutch fork. You won't have to touch it with a hydraulic TOB.

You will probably will have to shorten the collar with the twin disc regardless of the engine. It takes up a lot of real estate inside the bellhousing and the outer disc tends to hit the collar. If you take some careful measurements, you'll know if there is an interference or not before you put everything together.
 
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The car finally saw the light of day yesterday for the first time since October. My test drive for the new trans was a 40 mile trip to a local show. I took first in the fox class, so that was cool.

9e92a8df69714a7120c3a63e3591ef70.webp


Two issues popped up. Small trans fluid leak and I couldn't get the reverse lockout solenoid to work properly.

The fluid leak was coming from the mechanical VSS sensor. I'm using that sensor for my electronic speedometer, but without the cable plugged in. It never leaked in the TKO, but was weeping fluid from the new trans. I sealed up the area where the cable should go with some RTV. Should do the trick.

I have an Accutach unit for the reverse lockout solenoid that allows it to operate when the brake pedal is pressed and when the car is moving at less than 5mph. It wasn't working, so I had to overpower the solenoid with brute force during my trip. Not fun.

I realized this morning that I tapped the VSS return instead of the signal. Works great now.

What's the verdict on the T56 Magnum? Effin awesome! I really love this trans. The shifts are smooth and precise. There is just enough notchy-ness that it feels like a performance trans, but it's not so intense that you feel like you're forcing it into gear all the time. RPMs in 6th at 70mph are around 1700.

The Maximum Motorsports quadrant and cable combined with the twin disc clutch create a pedal feel that is from the heavens. It's literally lighter than the pedal in my fiancée's Focus ST. Two fingers will get the clutch to the floor with ease.

The car is a ton of fun to drive. I just need to take it easy while the trans is breaking in.
 
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Exactly!!

and I had same drip, got a NOS speedsensor set and no more drip...




The car finally saw the light of day yesterday for the first time since October. My test drive for the new trans was a 40 mile trip to a local show. I took first in the fox class, so that was cool.

9e92a8df69714a7120c3a63e3591ef70.webp


Two issues popped up. Small trans fluid leak and I couldn't get the reverse lockout solenoid to work properly.

The fluid leak was coming from the mechanical VSS sensor. I'm using that sensor for my electronic speedometer, but without the cable plugged in. It never leaked in the TKO, but was weeping fluid from the new trans. I sealed up the area where the cable should go with some RTV. Should do the trick.

I have an Accutach unit for the reverse lockout solenoid that allows it to operate when the brake pedal is pressed and when the car is moving at less than 5mph. It wasn't working, so I had to overpower the solenoid with brute force during my trip. Not fun.

I realized this morning that I tapped the VSS return instead of the signal. Works great now.

What's the verdict on the T56 Magnum? Effin awesome! I really love this trans. The shifts are smooth and precise. There is just enough notchy-ness that it feels like a performance trans, but it's not so intense that you feel like you're forcing it into gear all the time. RPMs in 6th at 70mph are around 1700.

The Maximum Motorsports quadrant and cable combined with the twin disc clutch create a pedal feel that is from the heavens. It's literally lighter than the pedal in my fiancée's Focus ST. Two fingers will get the clutch to the floor with ease.

The car is a ton of fun to drive. I just need to take it easy while the trans is breaking in.
 
lrs, me too, hmm.. we then threw a shop one on but it was worse. ordered a nos and leak was gone. but dang I love that shift feel of this trans!! no question whats going on! by 3rd youre way over the speed limit, lol....
 
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