Distributor autozone sucks compared to motorcraft?

The conversation got side tracked before it even got started. At no point did the OP confirm that the new distributor was installed and the timing was set with a timing light. If anything, the original post suggests the opposite. When you put a new distributor in, you have to set the timing WITH A TIMING LIGHT. You are not going to Kentucky Windage your timing and get it right. So set the timing correctly, and then report back on whether or not the distributor is faulty.

I've had a Cardone rebuilt in my car for 15 years now, works fine. It was even rebuilt using a foxbody casting, which I had to cut to make it fit with my intake. Works fine. Luck of the draw on rebuilt parts.

Kurt
 
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Only time I think I’ve ever brought spare parts with me was to Myrtle for mustang week just because I was so far away from home I wanted to make sure I had stuff just incase I needed to fix the car . Thankfully ( knock on wood ) I’ve only ever needed a blower belt anywhere I have been . My car is definitely more radical compared to most here and I drive the :poo: out of it . Hell my ride to work now is 62 miles one way . I do have spare tools , blower belt and connectors with me though just incase I need to do something quick .
 
If you have a leaky hood, why not fix the leak? Changing the distributor because the hood leaks is like going out and mowing the lawn because you got hungry. If you're hungry make a sandwich.
But anyway, I could see after market not being as good as OEM, (in this case Motorcraft) after all, the OEM was made for that car! Then again, if I were pulling the distributor, I think I'd go for a performance upgrade like to an Accell or an MSD or something.
 
Back to spare parts. I'm still daily driving my 93 lx, 150 miles + a week, the only spare parts are the Old belt and hoses in wheel well and fuses in glove box. If I change something the night before I have to work, and the Old part still worked I'll toss it in the back for a day or two then shelf it.
In fourteen years of daily driving her she never needed any of them.
 
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If you have a leaky hood, why not fix the leak? Changing the distributor because the hood leaks is like going out and mowing the lawn because you got hungry. If you're hungry make a sandwich.
But anyway, I could see after market not being as good as OEM, (in this case Motorcraft) after all, the OEM was made for that car! Then again, if I were pulling the distributor, I think I'd go for a performance upgrade like to an Accell or an MSD or something.
I like that! Lawn needs mowing? Eat a sandwich!!
Lawn still needs mowing but you're not hungry!!
Anyway, just for future reference, swapping in MSD or Accell parts now is not an upgrade. Lack of quality control on over seas stuff.
 
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There are plenty of old car drivers who carry spare points and condensers with them just in case.

If you feel better carrying spares, then do.
 
If you have a leaky hood, why not fix the leak? Changing the distributor because the hood leaks is like going out and mowing the lawn because you got hungry. If you're hungry make a sandwich.
But anyway, I could see after market not being as good as OEM, (in this case Motorcraft) after all, the OEM was made for that car! Then again, if I were pulling the distributor, I think I'd go for a performance upgrade like to an Accell or an MSD or something.
@Bree The “upgrades” you list are designed for max output at the track, not for street durability. They are also made to a budget price point.
The chances of Motorcraft being made by Ford is minimal now unless the part is NOS.
To the OP, if you set the timing right, a new cap and adaptor ring might help with the water problem. A stock style distributor and wire cover might eliminate your problem.
 
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Well, even if MSD and the like are not what they used to be, my point remains the same, which is, if you're going to swap out OEM parts on a 'stang, whay not swap it for something a little hotter than original. Let that pony run!
 
Well, even if MSD and the like are not what they used to be, my point remains the same, which is, if you're going to swap out OEM parts on a 'stang, whay not swap it for something a little hotter than original. Let that pony run!
You’re not getting it. The aftermarket items you cited are guaranteed to require that you carry spares if you want to make it back from Saturday’s cruise-in.
“Letting that pony run” no longer goes hand-in/hand with MSD, or Accell.
Evidently, that includes everything else if not oem.
 
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Well, even if MSD and the like are not what they used to be, my point remains the same, which is, if you're going to swap out OEM parts on a 'stang, whay not swap it for something a little hotter than original. Let that pony run!
what "hotter" parts arey you referring to? I have over 500 hp on a few cars and run a Ford coil, distributor, fuel rails, TFI, intake, FMS headers, and many other parts.
 
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If water getting in is an issue, either plug the hole or make it functional. I built myself a SVO style scoop into a stock aero hood and made it functional. My opening is right above the distributor as well so my ductwork helps get the water away.

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Define running lean? The computer will actually bounce between rich and lean constantly. Based on what my dual wideband is showing it bounces between 14.2 and 15.5 once it has reached steady state conditions (idle or cruising at steady speed).
 
I didn't BY Ford, I said FOR Ford.
I’d rather buy electrical parts from Delphi, then rebuild the stock distributor. Unless the shaft or bushings are worn, it will be at least as good as new as they are an OEM supplier. But for antiques, the parts might still be rebooted from a limited number of suppliers.