MAf i think.

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
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orlando
I was driving my car and and it stalled with after driving sluggish/boggy. I pulled in to a shop which i broke down right in front of.. I was gonna move the car but i had important college calss so i got a ride to school.THey told me they would tow it if i didnt have them at least inspect it so i did it... 79.00 do run a computer diagnostic. got same codes i got with my 30.00 scanner...But they tested my fuel pump it was at like 40psi...THat the only thing that makes me not want to compltely eat my foor for the 79 bucks.BUt hey a tow would of run me a lil more so oh well....
But i get some fuel pump codes that ive always had due to inertia switch missing etc...
But they told me i had a maf code 66 i think. and wanted 240 + 40 labor to put a new one on....I said i'll drive it home it was a mile or two to my house..I at to ride my clutch like never before to get it to mover it was bogging then stalling etc. so it sounds like the MAF Is bad..Out of no where overnight...
ANyways i went to advance it bought a reman MAF that matched my MAF's little serial number or whatever and it did a little better but wasnt right i returned it and got my money back which isnt suppose to be cause there is a no cash refund on eletrical parts(but the manager was cool had some cobra rims on his z28,lol)anywyas i thought maybe by chance theres was defective...
So i went to autozone there reman looked like ajunkyard part and had only a 3mo warranty vs the 1yr at advacne and she told me if i bought it and tried it out i couldnt get my money back...so i said the hell with it and walked out in attempt to clean mine...I tried that and it didnt work its only getting worse...

IS there any other problems some kinda way to install these things like have the battery disconnected and reconnect the pos terminal 1st or vise versa some lil gremlin i dont know about....I dont want to play aound wiht these no cash refund MAF's or buy a 150.00 vs the 90 reman and not fix it!!!!!!
any suggestions guys...IM out of a car for right now!
 
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MAf replacement is bolt on, connect the wiring and go. Did you dump the codes after you put the replacement MAF on? You might have some wiring problems.

Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage.
Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it.

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
 
Buy a used aftermarket one man. The stock maf is nothing but junk, way undersized. A 70mm maf for 19lb'rs would be perfect if it's mostly stock. I'll be selling mine when I tear the car down for a h/c swap this winter if you get a stock one and want a good one in a few months. It's almost new, and I just put it on a couple weeks ago.
 
Alright well i drove the car again last night...IT runs almost normal its just not all there...And i got some backfiring withrunning rich smell...So if im correct i need a maf...Or maybe i have a vaccuum leak, i know my intake head gasket leaks. but anywyas yah...
1)Is there any other sensors i could check to replace..
2) If i get another MAF does it have to match the serial code on top of the maf(thats what ivebeenn doing,but i would think it wouldnt matter cause my guess is all the computers are alike from 89-93)
3)if i get an aftermarket one say cobra or 73mm will the stock intake hoses work.and all the ones i look at say C&L dont seem to have the adapter to plug the maf harness into the sensor...is there more to it with an aftermarket...
 
A new maf sensor is plug n play man. Take the maf connector loose, disconnect the rubber tubes, take the bracket from the strut tower off, and it's out. Decide if you want to swap the bracket over (some people don't use it, I had bad luck without, murphys law I guess), then repeat the process for putting the maf back in.
 
cmon guys im not car retarded, ive changed the maf once already and returned it cause it didnt do anything it was a lil beter nbut it still stalled and stuff..its real easy.i got the maf that matched my part numbers. it was like 100.00 reman.i was gonna get one from autozone but they told me it wouldnt be a cash refund if it didnt work.
i was wondering if the part number/serial on top of the maf matters or can i get any one as long as its for a 89-93 5.0 19lb injectors. cause ebay got some for 40 shipped right now up for bid from a 93 gt!
ps. when i change it was i suppose to reset the computer or something....like disconnect the battery or etc....
 
I know man, sorry if I came off like making you sound like an idiot, but I was just trying to make the point that an aftermarket maf is the same way. Any maf for 19lb injectors will work as long as it's for a ford.
 
85,87.Canister Purge,fuel pump relay, 66 MAF...and i think 97 and 44... thats off the top of my head.
Im gonna buy a new Maf and realy since the relay is only 10.00...BUt im waiting to find out if it matter what maf i get as long as its a stock one. Which i dont understand why they put different part/serila numbers on these mafs.....
ps. it runs decent,but it aint ripping tires anymore im getting some backfiring,maybe its the sensor..
pss. the fuel pump got tested and it came out ok,maybe a clogged injector???
 
90_Red_LX said:
Any maf for 19lb injectors will work as long as it's for a ford.

No exactly clear... :shrug:

ALL Ford MAF meters are cal'd to the computer, not the injector size. There is a completely separate setting in the EEC for injector size.

Makdaddymac -
If you are determined to get a stock Ford MAF upgrade, then the only option is a 94-95 70mm MAF (unless you are willing to get a custom tune/chip). Use the MAS on the 94-95 MAF. It is plug and play.
Ford did not design it this way, it is just a coincidence that the MAF Transfer for these 2 meters are as close as they are.
This is assuming 19lb injectors are retained. Any other injector size will not work, without a custom tune.

If you want to get an aftermarket MAF...
Keep in mind that the aftermarket calibrates their meters to the Computer and Injector.

C&L/Vortech modifies the sample tube, and utilizes the stock MAS.
Other companies (like Pmas) actually recalibrate by modifying the output of the MAS.

Hope this clears things up a little:shrug:

In my opinion... :rolleyes:
You should pull the codes and work to the what comes up.
I get the feeling that you want to diagnose the issue the way it was done before engine management computers. While this type of diagnosing can have its advantages, the codes from the computer are concrete issues that MUST be fixed.

I hope I don't sound like an @$$ :ban:
I just don't want you to waste a bunch of time doing things that may or may not make progress.
Fixing the codes will make progress. :nice:

JR is a real Wiz at trouble shooting the EEC codes. :hail2:
Verify what you have and post them, I am sure JR (and several others here), will be able to help you out. :nice:


Good Luck
I'll help any way I can,
jason
 
Thanks.
Im not looking for an upgrade.Im looking for a fix to the way my car runs. I have codes 85,87,66;for sure.and 44,97 if i recall....
I want to get a MAF that works aftermarket or oem...you right this might not be my problem. But it seems to be,cause i cleaned my orginal and it did something cause now the car is driveable,that is why im not giving up on the MAF. Also im running rich and getting some backfiring as well as not pulling as hard.I would get another MAF from the parts store but i think advance gave me a defective unti and autozonetold me if i purchase i wouldnt be able to get my money back cause there electrical parts policy. and 100.00 is too much for me to experiment with.Yes they will give me another one no problem but im not to sure about that.But it looks like i have no choice.MY only other option is aftermarket, or ebay it.I want to ebay it,but i need to be certain all these MAFS are interchangeable.I cant see why they wouldnt be,but i can understand why they have part numbers,and when your at the part store they have like 3 differnt ones to choose from all the same exact sensor but different part #'s....that my only dilema....
as for the other codes, they are fuel related which dont get me wrong,that could be my problem .But my pump was tested and it came out ok 40psi.im gonna replace the fuel pump relay since it cheap.ianyways if the MAF dont fix it then im gonna work on the other codes..just got to figure out this maf number thing soon.
 
Makdaddymac said:
i hate to revive...But i want to know if anybody knows about these MAFS cause ebay has some up for grab....

I don't know what MAF you are talking about, but here is where I would look to find the answer to what you should be looking for.
http://rothfam.com/svo/reference/maf_part_number.html


Yes, the number on the Ford MAS is significant. You MUST know this number to determine what Ford computer and Ford MAF tube to use.

Like I said though, the only Ford MAF that can be used on a Fox (other than the stock 55mm MAF/F1ZF MAS) is the 70mm 94-95 Mustang (either 3.8 or 5.0) MAF; MAS number F2VF.
This setup will be an upgrade, and on ebay it most likely won't cost more to go this route compared to just getting a stock Fox replacement.

This is assuming you have an A9* computer. If you don't then that changes everything.

If you want to find a direct replacement for what you have then look for the 55mm MAF/F1ZF MAS setup.
This combo was used on the Taurus, T-bird, Crown Vic, as well as the fox Mustang.

All of the numbers/applications I have mentioned can be confirmed in the above link.

If you want to hit a j/y for a stock MAF... You can use any MAS that is branded F1ZF.

If you have questions about a MAF before you buy it, feel free to ask.

jason
 
OK well i want to replace the fuel pump relay but have no clue were its at...???
ps.Is it normal when the key is on engine OFF for the fuel pump to be running for as long as the key is on engine off.I just here the humming the whole time....i thought it was suppose to cut off at like 20 seconds but mine keeps on humming.
 
well i put in a relay(under the drivers seat) well thats at least were i plugged my new piece in the prngs matched and it went it nice and smooth so im hope that it. It did something cause the car runs smooth and the fuel pump stop when the key is on engine off after about 5 seconds...
here is the maf im bidding on! it from a 93' i have a 91 i should be alright?
 
i tried he was like there all interchangeable,i already won the bid 23.00 shipped cant beat that if it dont work,cause i think this whole problem is timing or bap sensor now...but think would think they are interchangeavle cause only there are the 88rare cali maf cars, the 89's which they switched to all mafs, so 90-93 (im talking out of my arse by the way) should be a match cause at autozone they have 3 types the 1st only has one part/serial muber.the second has only one part/serila number thats on the top of the sensor. and the 3rd has like 3-4 different ones....