Tensioner pulley bearing

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
3,427
1,519
194
Maryland
On a 92 5.0, is the tensioner pulley bearing replaceable or is it necessary to replace the entire pulley? I’d rather choose a higher quality bearing myself and put it in my existing pulley.
 
Anything's replaceable, stock pulley is stamped 2pc and riveted though, kind of chintzy, Pro 5.0 still sells a stainless one on fleebay. Upr, wazee and steeda have billet ones with serviceable bearings. I have a few of pro 5.0 ones since there here in a day or less snail mail since he's just upstate.
 
Last edited:


Upr and steeda have thiers on there sites...
 
Last edited:
I replaced the bearing in my original 83 tensioner.... You will need a press to remove the old one, at least I did... It was really tight.. Other than that it was pretty basic... I " think " there is a snap ring involved, so look for one before you beat or press on it...
 
I've done that, not sure on years but on mine I drilled 3 rivets and separated the 2 half's with a flathead then I put a quality bearing in it and had to source 3 small screws to put it all back together, the rivets it had original were not run of the mill rivets.

If I had to to do it again I wouldn't, on eBay there is a guy selling some really nice billet tensioner pulleys for like 45 bucks, he's sold like 400 of them, I believe they are listed under UPR, I've been meaning to pick one up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JD1964
They work fine... The parts store replacement junk has been a smooth plastic pulley for years and these things have been around for decades now, kind of shocked they still sell them..
 
Last edited:
It uses the same bearing that’s in the smog pump delete pulley that I just replaced. They came in a pair from Amazon for $10. SKF made in Italy. Since I already have a bearing I’m going to remove the rivets and replace the bearing. I hit the rivets in the center with a center punch then drilled 1/8" pilot and followed that with a 7/16" to take the head off and drive them out with a punch. I used machine screws with lock nuts to put it back together. Just like Praetorious stated above. All done and back on the car.

IMG_3782.webp


IMG_3783.webp


IMG_3784.webp


IMG_3785.webp


IMG_3786.webp


IMG_3787.webp