Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install
- Thread starter nicholase
- Start date
I started planning out the Install of my new fuel lines. I was looking at areas to run the fuel lines and matain exhaust clearance. I also wanted to install a panhard bar next year and was wondering how that would fit with where I put the fuel lines.
I decided it best to do the PH bar now. I figured next year I might have to re do all the fuel lines to make the panhard bar fit and that's the stuff I'm trying to avoid in general. I also know my exhaust won't work with the PH bar, so that will need modifications and might interfere with where I need to locate the fuel lines as well.
MM panhard bar
Not much to add with the MM panhard bar. The instructions are good. The install is pretty straight forward.
One thing that is a bit of a challenge is holding the chassis mount portion tight to the frame rails to take measurements and eventually drill. Trying to jack it up is cumbersome at best. I found a trick that works pretty well.
I cut out a few pieces of 1/8".
Then welded them to the inside rearward edge on each side of the MM chassis mount. Pic of the squares clamped to chassis mount prior to welding
They extend enough so a pair of welding clamps can squeeze the new ear to the frame rail.
Pic holding chassis mount in place with welding clamps. Right side on frame rail, left side on ear. Works nice to position it by myself.
Here it is all mounted up. The blue painters tape is to protect the finish while I installed it and also for when I fabricate a new exhaust over the axle.
I decided it best to do the PH bar now. I figured next year I might have to re do all the fuel lines to make the panhard bar fit and that's the stuff I'm trying to avoid in general. I also know my exhaust won't work with the PH bar, so that will need modifications and might interfere with where I need to locate the fuel lines as well.
MM panhard bar
Not much to add with the MM panhard bar. The instructions are good. The install is pretty straight forward.
One thing that is a bit of a challenge is holding the chassis mount portion tight to the frame rails to take measurements and eventually drill. Trying to jack it up is cumbersome at best. I found a trick that works pretty well.
I cut out a few pieces of 1/8".
Then welded them to the inside rearward edge on each side of the MM chassis mount. Pic of the squares clamped to chassis mount prior to welding
They extend enough so a pair of welding clamps can squeeze the new ear to the frame rail.
Pic holding chassis mount in place with welding clamps. Right side on frame rail, left side on ear. Works nice to position it by myself.
Here it is all mounted up. The blue painters tape is to protect the finish while I installed it and also for when I fabricate a new exhaust over the axle.
When I go to mine, I'll likely just disconnect after the X and take the whole thing to a muffler shop.
You: "It's a Tuesday, I'll just crank one out."
You: "It's a Tuesday, I'll just crank one out."
When I go to mine, I'll likely just disconnect after the X and take the whole thing to a muffler shop.
You: "It's a Tuesday, I'll just crank one out."
Definitely more than a Tuesday lol But i love your optimism!
I did some cutting and repositioning of the exhaust to clear the panhard bar. The Bassani, as well as Magnaflow differ considerably from the factory routing. This would take me quite a bit of time to make. I have about 15 hours in it and still see at least 20-30 more. The drivers side wasn't bad. That was a simple cut at the top of the axle hump and adding in about 1½" of pipe in that spot to clear the PH bar. Then cutting out an 1½" along the fuel tank area to keep the overall length the same. Not a big deal.
The passenger side was a different story. It will require a tremendous about of fab. I can't get it to go by simply cutting and repositioning or adding a few peices. It needs about a dozen pie cut sections to completely fabricate a complex bend around the pan hard bar, them around the fuel tank.
I want to be ready by spring and still need to build a complete fuel system, pull the engine for the top end kit, and figure out an engine managment system. So...
I picked up some Flowmaster tailpipes and they fit perfect. I wish they (or anybody) made tailpipes that follows the factory routing out of 304 grade stainless, but that doesn't seem to be the case. The ones I got are 409 stainless steel. In my experience 409 stainless will show some surface corrosion but last a long while, if not forever. I'm going to send them out to Jet Hot for a full inside out coating. This will keep them looking good. Also it will keep exhaust temps down which is never a bad thing. I'm gonna sent the whole cat back to them.
Pic Flowmaster exhaust clearing panhard bar:
On to the fuel system.
I'll be replacing the entire fuel system from the fuel pump hanger to the fuel rails. I'll be using 6an PTFE fuel lines throughout.
I started by determining the fuel filter location. The factory location seems like a good spot. So I modified the factory bracket to accept the Aeromotive fuel filter mounting bracket.
The factory fuel filter bracket pictured below. I cut off the hose clamp portion that cups around the factory filter.
That left just a trangle portion that bolts to the chassis. I painted it with some cold galvanized paint and attached the new fuel mount to it with the included self tapping screws.
I'm using an Aeromotive pump hanger. It came with a 340lph pump which is overkill for my needs. So I'm swapping it out with a 255lph Walbro GS340. The hanger assembly comes with 6an ORB type fittings for the fuel lines.
The return line drops to the bottom of the tank which is an improvement over the stock setup. From what I read it helps avoid aerated fuel that happens when you dump the return flow on the surface of the fuel level.
Soldered in the new pump. In this picture the red wire is soldered, the black one is twisted together ready to solder.
Then I got the harness ready for the new pump connections. It came with the yellow crimp on type ends. I never trust those things. A trick I use is to pull off the yellow plastic part. Then crimp them tightly around the wire with needle nose pliers and solder it.
Holding them upright while soldering helps the solder flow into the joint and but more importantly keeps it from getting all over the ring end. Heres a pic after I solder them.
Then I finished them off with some heat shrink tubing and the rubber end caps included with the hanger kit.
The fuel line is Fragolia 6000 series PTFE. It has the PTFE tube encased in stainless steel braid. Then it is covered in a hard plastic jacket which offers abrasion resistance and rigidity to the line. That should help keep it from drooping down between support mounts.
I made up some lines. These will go from the fuel pump hanger to the fuel filter area. I decided to put a union in the return line in that location as well. This will allow for a disconnect point for both lines in the future if I need to drop the tank. I used some "R"ed heat shrink tubing to identify the "R"eturn line. It's what you would use on battery cables. I'll mark the return line in this way at each connection point just to avoid any future confusion.
I cut the lines with a band saw so I'm sure there is some garbage in them. After making up the lines I blow them out with compressed air. Then wash them out and pressure test them. This fitting screws on a garden hose and adapts to AN style fitting. I run some warm water through each line for a bit. Once i feel it's absolutely clean I plug the other end and turn the faucet back on and check for leaks.
Picture of garden hose adapter.
Here is my new wiring and lines all mounted up. I just replaced the tank last year so it's in really nice shape.
Then I took a peep into the filler neck hole to make sure the return line was in the pump basket and that the wiring wasn't pinched or rubbing against anything.
I mentioned this in a different thread, but it's probably worth mentioning again. I use a cheap $8 HF transfer pump to pump out the gas from the tank. It works fine. The biggest issue is always getting the hose to the bottom of the tank because they always want to curl up. Putting a brass air chuck fitting on the hose works awesome. It drops right through the flapper in the filler neck and gives a nice satisfying clunk when it hits the bottom of the tank.
I started by determining the fuel filter location. The factory location seems like a good spot. So I modified the factory bracket to accept the Aeromotive fuel filter mounting bracket.
The factory fuel filter bracket pictured below. I cut off the hose clamp portion that cups around the factory filter.
That left just a trangle portion that bolts to the chassis. I painted it with some cold galvanized paint and attached the new fuel mount to it with the included self tapping screws.
I'm using an Aeromotive pump hanger. It came with a 340lph pump which is overkill for my needs. So I'm swapping it out with a 255lph Walbro GS340. The hanger assembly comes with 6an ORB type fittings for the fuel lines.
The return line drops to the bottom of the tank which is an improvement over the stock setup. From what I read it helps avoid aerated fuel that happens when you dump the return flow on the surface of the fuel level.
Soldered in the new pump. In this picture the red wire is soldered, the black one is twisted together ready to solder.
Then I got the harness ready for the new pump connections. It came with the yellow crimp on type ends. I never trust those things. A trick I use is to pull off the yellow plastic part. Then crimp them tightly around the wire with needle nose pliers and solder it.
Holding them upright while soldering helps the solder flow into the joint and but more importantly keeps it from getting all over the ring end. Heres a pic after I solder them.
Then I finished them off with some heat shrink tubing and the rubber end caps included with the hanger kit.
The fuel line is Fragolia 6000 series PTFE. It has the PTFE tube encased in stainless steel braid. Then it is covered in a hard plastic jacket which offers abrasion resistance and rigidity to the line. That should help keep it from drooping down between support mounts.
I made up some lines. These will go from the fuel pump hanger to the fuel filter area. I decided to put a union in the return line in that location as well. This will allow for a disconnect point for both lines in the future if I need to drop the tank. I used some "R"ed heat shrink tubing to identify the "R"eturn line. It's what you would use on battery cables. I'll mark the return line in this way at each connection point just to avoid any future confusion.
I cut the lines with a band saw so I'm sure there is some garbage in them. After making up the lines I blow them out with compressed air. Then wash them out and pressure test them. This fitting screws on a garden hose and adapts to AN style fitting. I run some warm water through each line for a bit. Once i feel it's absolutely clean I plug the other end and turn the faucet back on and check for leaks.
Picture of garden hose adapter.
Here is my new wiring and lines all mounted up. I just replaced the tank last year so it's in really nice shape.
Then I took a peep into the filler neck hole to make sure the return line was in the pump basket and that the wiring wasn't pinched or rubbing against anything.
I mentioned this in a different thread, but it's probably worth mentioning again. I use a cheap $8 HF transfer pump to pump out the gas from the tank. It works fine. The biggest issue is always getting the hose to the bottom of the tank because they always want to curl up. Putting a brass air chuck fitting on the hose works awesome. It drops right through the flapper in the filler neck and gives a nice satisfying clunk when it hits the bottom of the tank.
Last edited:
I was able to get a full day in on the car today. Feel that got alot accomplished. I got the fuel tank back in and ran my new lines up to the front wheel. The rest of the lines will wait until the engine is done and back in the car with the new fuel rails and whatnot. I just wanted to get the rear portion done while the exhaust was still in place so I could see where I needed to run them.
The new lines drop out of the side of the tank. They tuck nice behind the tank strap to keep them secure.
From there they go to the new Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter. It's in the factory location which seems to work pretty well.
To mount the new fuel lines to the body I used some slick mounting brackets from Finish Line Factory. I used rivnuts to mount them and some stainless ¼" flange head bolts.
Most are probably familiar with rivnuts, but if not they are a really nice way to mount things like this. They are a threaded insert that goes into a drilled hole. Then a tool compresses it like a rivit leaving a nice tight threaded insert to attach things to. I used some high zinc primer around the newly drilled holes. After it was dry I put a dab of silicone on the rivnut and installed it. Then wiped off the excess. Here's a few installed in the floor pan.
This is the first mount closest to the fuel filter.
Because the fuel lines are in the vicinity of the exhaust I thought it would be a good idea to use a heat barrier. This reflects much of the heat and is rated to 1350°. It frays when cut so I used heat shrink at the ends of each sleeve.
This is the area above the muffler. I used a bunch of mounting clamps to keep it nice and secure. The reflective heat sleeve will be helpful here. This is pretty much where the factory fuel lines were routed. The original mounting tab is right under my new lines. However I tucked them into the cavity above the parking brake cable to get outboard of the frame. The factory lines follow the exhaust farther up. I wanted to get away from it as soon as I could.
Once outboard the frame routing was pretty easy. I put a few of the mouing brackets right beteeen the brake and vapor line. I made some shims so I didn't squish them with the bracket. It seems like a nice spot to run the new lines.
I was able to keep all the new fuel lines above the pinch weld. They are also way above the subframe connectors so ground clearance isn't any issue. I routed them up into the wheel well right where the factory lines went. I'll have to make a new hold down strap because the lines are thicker and the strap is too short, but they fit in there nicely. Pretty happy with it all.
The new lines drop out of the side of the tank. They tuck nice behind the tank strap to keep them secure.
From there they go to the new Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter. It's in the factory location which seems to work pretty well.
To mount the new fuel lines to the body I used some slick mounting brackets from Finish Line Factory. I used rivnuts to mount them and some stainless ¼" flange head bolts.
Most are probably familiar with rivnuts, but if not they are a really nice way to mount things like this. They are a threaded insert that goes into a drilled hole. Then a tool compresses it like a rivit leaving a nice tight threaded insert to attach things to. I used some high zinc primer around the newly drilled holes. After it was dry I put a dab of silicone on the rivnut and installed it. Then wiped off the excess. Here's a few installed in the floor pan.
This is the first mount closest to the fuel filter.
Because the fuel lines are in the vicinity of the exhaust I thought it would be a good idea to use a heat barrier. This reflects much of the heat and is rated to 1350°. It frays when cut so I used heat shrink at the ends of each sleeve.
This is the area above the muffler. I used a bunch of mounting clamps to keep it nice and secure. The reflective heat sleeve will be helpful here. This is pretty much where the factory fuel lines were routed. The original mounting tab is right under my new lines. However I tucked them into the cavity above the parking brake cable to get outboard of the frame. The factory lines follow the exhaust farther up. I wanted to get away from it as soon as I could.
Once outboard the frame routing was pretty easy. I put a few of the mouing brackets right beteeen the brake and vapor line. I made some shims so I didn't squish them with the bracket. It seems like a nice spot to run the new lines.
I was able to keep all the new fuel lines above the pinch weld. They are also way above the subframe connectors so ground clearance isn't any issue. I routed them up into the wheel well right where the factory lines went. I'll have to make a new hold down strap because the lines are thicker and the strap is too short, but they fit in there nicely. Pretty happy with it all.
Attachments
Last edited:
Now that the brakes, chassis, suspension and fuel system are wrapped up I moved along with the plan.
I'll be doing a Trick Flow top end kit, McLeod dual disc clutch, and Pro-M EFI. I'm also going to clean up the engine bay, patch some holes and paint it.This won't be show car smoothed. Just a general tidy job. It looks like the Pro-M is 8-10 weeks out so I'll be able to take my time with the engine and underhood work.
Had a productive day:
I'll be doing a Trick Flow top end kit, McLeod dual disc clutch, and Pro-M EFI. I'm also going to clean up the engine bay, patch some holes and paint it.This won't be show car smoothed. Just a general tidy job. It looks like the Pro-M is 8-10 weeks out so I'll be able to take my time with the engine and underhood work.
Had a productive day:
I laugh a little when someone says 'it's not a show car'
Go to a weekend 'car show' and see what some think IS show car material .
It's not the shine that attracts me, it's simple functionality and component tidyness,
Go to a weekend 'car show' and see what some think IS show car material .
It's not the shine that attracts me, it's simple functionality and component tidyness,
I notice that dash boards and Engine compartments are usually pretty sad looking when I go.. Areas I spent alot of time trying to do nice on my 67 Dodge...... NOT purist correct ( the dash is pretty close) but clean and well done...
Before tearing the engine down I wanted to double check a few things. First the locations of the new widebands. I'll need two for the Pro-M EFI and want them to be at the same distance from the rear cylinder head ports. While the engine was still in the car I marked locations on the exhaust where they would clear the floor pan, transmission, an be even. Today I drilled out holes for the new O² bungs then mocked the trans back up on the engine to make sure the angle of the bung is correct and won't interfere with the transmission. Now I can weld them in. I do that later, just wanted to get them prepped.
I'm going to add a TKX transmission next winter. I did my best to insure the O² location will clear the larger trans body when that time comes. Heres a nice grafic I found on the physical size difference between a T5 and TKX.
I also mocked up and planned out the Pro-M crank trigger mount. I'm going to change a few things about mounting it that I feel will make it better. I'll post more about that later.
Then I stripped it down to a short block.
I'm going to add a TKX transmission next winter. I did my best to insure the O² location will clear the larger trans body when that time comes. Heres a nice grafic I found on the physical size difference between a T5 and TKX.
I also mocked up and planned out the Pro-M crank trigger mount. I'm going to change a few things about mounting it that I feel will make it better. I'll post more about that later.
Then I stripped it down to a short block.
The plan for this engine is leaving the short block as it. It's got just under 60k miles, runs great and has no oil burning issues or anything. Plugs always look good, no smoke, strong runner. So it will stay.
Cylinder walls still show strong uniform crosshatch. So that's good news.
I cleaned up the piston tops with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and a combination of a nylon bristle brush and a plastic "razor" gasket scraper. Each time I moved to a new piston I plugged all the coolant/oil passages near the work area. This process took a while. I took this pic after the first cleaning of a few pistons.
After I got the first cleaning round done on all the pistons I went back and did them once again to get rid of any remaing particles. Then I worked on the head gasket area. Didn't grab a pic of that though.
I ran a thread chaser lubricated with cutting oil through all the threaded holes in the block until they were super clean and smooth. Then I flushed out the coolant jackets with cooling flush and degreased the block. A wire brush took off the flakey stuff. Then I doused it with several cans of brake clean. I should have kept track of how many cans I went through start to finish.
I masked it off for painting. I'm using Eastwood 2k engine primer and 2k engine paint. Also Eastwood prep before the primer.
Cylinder walls still show strong uniform crosshatch. So that's good news.
I cleaned up the piston tops with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and a combination of a nylon bristle brush and a plastic "razor" gasket scraper. Each time I moved to a new piston I plugged all the coolant/oil passages near the work area. This process took a while. I took this pic after the first cleaning of a few pistons.
After I got the first cleaning round done on all the pistons I went back and did them once again to get rid of any remaing particles. Then I worked on the head gasket area. Didn't grab a pic of that though.
I ran a thread chaser lubricated with cutting oil through all the threaded holes in the block until they were super clean and smooth. Then I flushed out the coolant jackets with cooling flush and degreased the block. A wire brush took off the flakey stuff. Then I doused it with several cans of brake clean. I should have kept track of how many cans I went through start to finish.
I masked it off for painting. I'm using Eastwood 2k engine primer and 2k engine paint. Also Eastwood prep before the primer.
Last edited:
This is the Eastwood paint I used.
It came out really nice. First time using the stuff and really happy with it. It's two component catalyzed paint. The red button on the cap is removed and used to puncture the activator on the bottom of the can. It dries fast and covers nice. The downside is once you activate it you have to use the can within 18 hours. I used one can of primer and paint for the block and a new oil pan.
A few pics
It came out really nice. First time using the stuff and really happy with it. It's two component catalyzed paint. The red button on the cap is removed and used to puncture the activator on the bottom of the can. It dries fast and covers nice. The downside is once you activate it you have to use the can within 18 hours. I used one can of primer and paint for the block and a new oil pan.
A few pics
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Back in early January I got the Trick Flow top end kit. This is the 360HP kit with the TFS1 cam and Track Heat intake. They said it would work really well with my Vortech. I hadn't opened any of it up until today. I'm getting close to assembling so I went through and did an inventory on what I got and what I still need.
I also wanted to finish up some painting this weekend. That way everything is plenty dry whenever I get a chance to start assembly. All masked up and ready for some primer.
I also wanted to finish up some painting this weekend. That way everything is plenty dry whenever I get a chance to start assembly. All masked up and ready for some primer.
I doubt you're a Dr. but based on your garage and prep work for stuff like this, I'd let you perform surgery on me.
What was that car show where the two squeaky clean dudes did all the bolt-on projects and everything came loose, no issues?
I was looking for it earlier but can't remember the name of it.
He's probably got a team of 20 guys we haven't seen.
From a car-toon view; he walks into the blinding light wearing a 60's era surgery getup holding a ball peen hammer in one hand and a small pry bar in the other and in a 'Jim Carrey ' voice says 'A-L-L-RIGHTY!!!
He's probably got a team of 20 guys we haven't seen.
Lol. That would be nice! Definitely could use a helper. Have alot to do yet!
Last edited:
You guys don't wear that get up when you work? Weirdos.
Try reading my to-do list as fast as you can in a Jim Carrey voice without taking a breath
Like this:
[v] Lay out TF kit an inventory
[v] Verify header fitment on heads
[v] □Need any gaskets or hardware to assemble engine 《ORDER》
[v] Clean prime and paint silver parts
[ ] Install old oil pan -no gasket
[ ] Clean and install old cam, lifters, and chain, install oil filter
[ ] Prime oil system, hand crank to push out any possible leftover junk
[ ] Dump oil, pull pan and check for any debris, clean out pan
[ ] Remove old cam and chain filter
[ ] Remove old pump and pick up tube
[ ] Clean engine for final assemble
[ ] Clean out all treaded internal engine threads with brake clean and blow out for locktite / thread sealant
[ ] □Need assemble lube《ORDER》
[ ] Install TFS1 cam w/ assembly lube
[ ] CLEAN CAM TIMING SPROCKET BOLT THREADS
[ ] Install new Ford Performance lifters
[ ] Install new Ford Performance dog bones and spyder plate with new bolts
[ ] CLEAN AND LOCKTITE SPYDER PLATE BOLT HOLES
[ ] Torque spyder retainer bolts **?
[ ] Install Ford Performance timing chain
[ ] Clean, Locktite and torque cam sprocket bolt 40-45 ft/lbs
[ ] Install new Ford Performance cam thrust plate
[ ] Clean, Locktite and torque cam thrust plate bolts 108-144 in/lbs
[ ] Degree cam- heads off
[ ] Final cean head surface
[ ] Install new head dowels
[ ] Lay out gasket and verify correct
[ ] Install ARP head studs
[ ] □Use ARP thread sealant on jacket bolts
[ ] Install Trick Flow 170- 61CC heads and torque three equal stages 25>50>80 ft/lbs
[ ] Install guide plates and torque
[ ] Install and torque rocker studs
[ ] Install Trick Flow rockers and
[ ] □Need sprk plugs 《ORDER 》
[ ] Install ARP intake stud kit
[ ] Port match intake to head gasket
[ ] □Need new grinder bits for Dremel and extra battery《BUY》
[ ] Install and torque lower intake 12 >16>22 ft/lbs see sequence
[ ] Install new Cobra coolant tube
[ ] Install Anderson Motorsports fuel rails
[ ] Torque fuel rail bolts 70-105 in/lbs
[ ] Make fuel line loop for front of rails
[ ] Make sure it clears distributor
[ ] Clean and polish distributor
[ ] Clean and install sensors in intake
[ ] Install Melling 10687 oil pump w/ARP bolts and gaskes
[ ] Torque oil pump bolts 22-32 ft/lbs
[ ] Install new pickup tube
[ ] Torque pickup to pump 12-18 ft/lbs
[ ] Torque pickup to main stud 60/70 ft/lbs
[ ] Check torque on all main caps 60/70 ft/lb
[ ] check torque on all connecticting rod caps 22-25 ft/lbs
[ ] Install and gasket new Ford Performance oil pan with Ford Performance rails and ARP bolts
[ ] Torque oil pan bolts 6-9 ft/lbs
[ ] Install front cover with ARP bolt kit
[ ] Torque front cover bolts 12-18 ft/lbs
[ ] Install new Edelbrock waterpump with new bolt kit
[ ] Torque waterpump 12-18 ft/lbs
[ ] Install new oil filter
[ ] Install new convertible engine mounts
[ ] Spin engine around on stand
[ ] Install rear main seal
[ ] Install new engine spacer plate. Verify same as old
[ ] Install Ford Performance billet flywheel w/ARP bolts
[ ] Clean and thread sealant crank threads for flywheel bolts. Torque to 75-85 ft/lbs
[ ] Fill with oil and prime oil pump several times and check rear main for leaks
[ ] Install McLeod RST twin disc clutch w/ARP bolts
[ ] Torque pressure plate bolts 12-24 ft/lbs
[v] □Need starter Ford Performance mini《ORDER》
[ ] Spin engine around on stand
[ ] Assemble accessory drive and figure out mounting for new Sanden A/C compressor
[ ] Fabricate and paint new A/C brackets
[ ] Install balancer
[ ] Mount and set up crank trigger wheel, balancer and crank pulley
[ ] Torque balancer bolt to 110-120 ft/lbs
[v] □ Need machine work done on balancer《SCHEDULE》
[ ] Laser check pulley alignment and adjust shim as needed
[v] Weld O² bungs in down pipes
Begin under hood
[ ] Remove P/S pump from bracket
[ ] Clean and bag pump
[v] □Need P/S lines 《ORDER》
[ ] Inspection tie rod length into end
[ ] □May need deeper tie rod ends 《ORDER》
[ ] Remove clean and flush rack
[ ] □Need rack bushings 《ORDER》
[ ] □Need rack bellows 《ORDER》
[ ] Remove MSD 6BTM and restore wiring to factory《SELL》
[ ] Degrease engine bay
[ ] Weld up unused bolt holes
[ ] Weld in fender smooth panel passenger side. Cut out for blower inlet
[ ] Plan out new catch can setup and placement this is probably a good spot
[ ] □ Need catch can《ORDER》
[ ] Locate and mount new fuel pressure regulator. Decide straight or 90° fittings
[ ] □ Need (2) -6 AN ORB straight or 90° fittings for regulator《ORDER》
[v] □Need (1) -6an ORB plug for alternate regulator feed 《ORDER》
[ ] Mask car and paint engine bay
[ ] □Need plastic drop cloths and tape 《BUY》
[ ] Clean and paint any other parts or brackets
[ ] Remove seats and center console
[ ] Remove dash
[ ] Replace evaporator with Classic Air unit from kit
[ ] Replace heater core with OEM brass / copper unit from NPD
[ ] □Call around for someone local to pressure test both 《SCHEDULE》
[ ] Clean plenum and replace all seals and foam with LMR kit
[ ] Install new firewall plenum seal from LMR
[ ] Replace spedo cable and spedo head gasket
[ ] Install new Zetronic wideband guage and route O² sensor leads through floor
[ ] Install dash
[ ] Decide if I want to replace carpet while everything is out woth different color
[v] □Need carpet samples from AAC 《CONTACT》
Back to drive line:
[ ] Remove tailshaft and replace spedo drive gear w/ 7 tooth
[ ] □Need trans fluid 《BUY》
[ ] Install engine
[ ] Install trans
[ ] Install driveshaft
[ ] Install exhaust when back from JetHot
[v] □Need O² bung plugs 《ORDER》
[ ] Final Install panhard bar and rear suspension
[ ] Install new condensor from Classic Air and radiator.
[ ] Install accessory drive
[ ] Install supercharger
[ ] Install new catch can setup
[ ] Finish up fuel lines to fuel rails
[ ] Flush out new fuel lines
[ ] Start and test run new engine on 24lb injectors and factory computer to verify engine work is good
[ ] Remove factory engine harness
[ ] Replace 24lb injectors w/ new DW 50lb
[ ] Install ProM EFI
[ ] Install Zetronic wideband setup
[ ] Install new A/C kit from classic air and make new lines if needed for S/C clearance.
[ ] Charge A/C
Last edited:
