Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install

[nicholase]

So thanks to @Rdub6 I went down a spare tire rabbit hole

My biggest challenge is my front brakes. They're 6 piston direct mount so they overhang well past the wheel mount surface.

Its not so much the wheel diameter that matters, but they need to have significant enough backspacing to keep the caliper from hitting the inside face of the wheel.

I found a place called modern spare and grabbed a kit with a new jack and wrench for my 17mm lug nuts. The spare is for a 2024 Mustang Darkhorse. Those come with 6 piston calipers so I figured it was a safe bet.

It fits great.

I wouldn't suggest this route unless you have a unique situation becasue its pretty expensive. Ebay would be much better, but I didn't have any luck. I figured I'd end up getting a flat in the most inconvient time possible and need a flatbed all because I was trying to save a few bucks on a spare.

Now that I have this stupid expensive spare I've almost guaranteed I'll never need it. So thats worth something in and of itself!

 

[gkomo]

Does look good tho!

Big brake people problems.

 

[nicholase]

One of the goals this summer was to get it inspected. Got that done today, got my Bronco done yesterday so feels good to get caught up on that. My registration expires in July, so now I'll be ready for that, my old inspection was expired and we can't register here if the inspection is expired. So good to go on that front.

Blurred for tin foil hat reasons

Car ran awesome on the trip. One cool feature of the Speedhut boost guage is the recall function as well as the warning light function. The red light can be set to come on at a particular boost number. It works pretty good as a shift light. I've been raising the rev limiter little by little. Currently set at 6000 RPM. Saw this today:

I pulled up the limiter in the calibration and bumped it up to the full 6200. Also switched it to cut fuel and spark as it was previously set for just fuel.

Then I made a few changes to the traction control. I removed some additional timing to see if I can cut some more wheel spin. First and second are pretty slippery still.

I also enabled the "no lift shift function".

It seems pretty well thought out. It uses the TPS to determine when you are at full throttle. It also monitors the clutch switch so it knows when you are depressing the clutch. If it sees the clutch switch activate and the TP is showing WOT it knows you are requesting a no lift shift. The PCM is programmed with my rear end ratio, and also the individual gear ratios of each gear of the T5. By referencing the speed sensor amd RPM from the crank trigger it knows what gear I'm in. So when it sees the request for a NLS is sets the rev limiter to where it should be for the next gear selection. It's supposed to be much smoother on the drivetrain and let's the boost stay at full for the shift. I think the hardest part will be keeping my foot on the floor when I push in the clutch lol. A mental hurdle to get over.

I still have to wire this in, but I just enabled it while I was in there.

I also put some time aside to figure out how to operate the data log. It's actually pretty easy. Any value the PCM sees and tracks can be dragged into a diagnostic scope, then applied to the data logger. I removed everything except for the wideband lambda L&R and RPM.

Next time out I'll see how it looks rather than trying to watch the AFR guage in real time.

 

[nicholase]

I do have a question. I'm going to be replacing the T5 with a TKX. I'm going to start gathering the smalls soon. Then this winter all I'll need to order is the transmission.

It's available as a 10 spline and 26 spline. Is there a reason to go with the 26 spline? The torque rating is listed the same from what I see. I have a really nice McLeod RST twin disc in 10 spline that I'd rather not replace.

Any thoughts on that?

 

[nicholase]

Big few days. Got a bunch done and some more miles on it.

Today I worked on the wiring for the no lift shift. I'll copy and paste this to the ProM instructions in the tech section because all this info is tough to find in one place with them out of business. The plug and play wiring is no longer available. So figuring this all out takes some detective work.


The clutch switch has two connectors. The rear most black connector for the starter circuit with the R/B wires in it, and another clear / white connector facing the firewall which is no longer used with the stand alone.

The old wires were in pairs. So to keep the same arrangement I soldered each pair together like they are in the connector. Then shrink wrapped and zip tied it to the new clutch pigtail.

Then I de pinned the connector.

I soldered new leads to the old pins. I wired one lead of the connector to key on switched 12v (yellow wire) and the other lead to the brown wire labled clutch switch on the PCM optional wire bundle in the passenger kick panel. Note Orientation of wire colors. This shouldn't matter as it's a simple two wire make or break circuit but I found an image online of the actual plug and play harness so I made mine the same.

Made a nice little harmess for it and ran it to the passenger kick panel.

This is the brown wire in the kick panel that sends the signal to the PCM. Its labled clutch switch.

This is the schematic for the T/C indicator light, switch, and clutch switch for no lift shift, 2 step, and launch assist if anyone ever needs it.

Now I'm all set up for no lift shift.


The clutch switch also opens the door for two more options. The 2 step rev limiter and launch assist. So why not?


I enabled that as well. In the software I click enable, then change the signal source to clutch switch (you could also use a momentary switch or piggy back it to a line lock or trans brake switch)

I set the two step limit at 2600 RPM for now, its easily adjustable if I want it higher. To activate the 2 step I push the clutch down and then push the throttle to the floor. I like that there's no extra switch needed or much thinking involved. It will hold at 2600 RPM until I release the clutch, then it lets it rip. The 2 step has a settable speed in MPH where it will cancel out. I set it at 5mph as I dont intend to be all ricey and bang on the two step while rolling through a car show lol. So with my setting anything above 5 MPH with the clutch pushed in, it will rev up to the base 6200 RPM limiter.


I also activated the launch assist

This is similar to the traction control but its activated differently. The launch control is only activated if the 2 step is being used (It uses the same clutch switch and wiring).

When the two step is bouncing off the 2600 RPM limiter, releasing the clutch turns off the 2 step and immediately activates the launce assist. It ramps up spark advance as soon as the clutch pedal is released to a slope you enter. It's a spark advance over time slope so it only lasts for as long as you program it to revert to the base spark table. 1-2 seconds or whatever you set it up as.

The slope is below. I left it as it was entered. So from 0 to .3 seconds from clutch release it's pulling 30° timing. Then it tapers off to pulling 10° timing at 1 second from clutch release. It tapers to pulling 0° by 2 seconds and is fully reverted back to the base timing table.

Once the launch assist tapers off the TC kicks in by sensing unrealistic wheel spin and backs off the timing as needed.


I put in a fresh set of 3923's and used my new gap tool. Really nice tool.

Now let's take it for a rip and see if it all works!

 

[nicholase]

Alright. This is pretty badass!

First I tried the 2 step becasue I wanted to make sure the clutch switch was working and reading properly by the PCM. I wasn't going to do a launch. Just wanted to check the clutch switch function. Figured better to try this rather than the no lift shift and finding out it's not working with the throttle to the floor board and clutch pushed in lol.

Well, it sure works. Makes all sorts of popping banging and flame shooting. Sounds totally rude and obnoxious! I did read this note before heading out.....

Knowing the clutch switch is being recognized by the PCM I gave the no lift shift a try. TOTALLY AWESOME! The RPM's instantly drop and hold exactly where the next gear is going to start. It's super smooth. There is a time delay I can set. I currently have it at .10 seconds.

That's how long it will hold at the RPM for the next gear from the time the clutch switch opens and the clutch actually engages. The clutch switch opens right off the floor so there is a bit of time for the pedal to come up and clutch actually engage. So you gotta be quick releasing the clutch. The .10 sec delay seems pretty spot on but I might adjust it some after more time with it.

This is gonna be awesome. If anyone has ever ridden a sport bike with a quick shifter it feels very much like that, just kicking through the gears with the throttle pinned, which feels pretty cool!

The changes I made yesterday to the TC were beneficial. Its really pulling hard. I don't feel any intrusion or any hint of a rev limiter cutting in and out type feeling. It all goes pretty unnoticed unless I turn the switch off. Then its just up in smoke all the time.

So... the two step and launch control. Gonna save that for another day. Something about the noise that 2 step makes really feels hoonigan . I wanna give all the parameters of the tune a good datalog and look over before I get too carried away. Soon.....

I'll see if I can get a phone mount and take some sort of video. I had one but apparently it's gone.

 

[nicholase]

If anyone is wondering what 2 step sound like. A machine gun would be accurate. Sounds like this:

 

[nicholase]

I do have a question. I'm going to be replacing the T5 with a TKX. I'm going to start gathering the smalls soon. Then this winter all I'll need to order is the transmission.

It's available as a 10 spline and 26 spline. Is there a reason to go with the 26 spline? The torque rating is listed the same from what I see. I have a really nice McLeod RST twin disc in 10 spline that I'd rather not replace.

Any thoughts on that?

I emailed Tremec and asked about any torque difference between the 10 spline and 26 spline input shaft TKX. They responded:

"Good morning,
Thank you for contacting Tremec. There is no torque rating difference between the 10-spline and the 26-spline."

So I guess it's just about gear ratio preference. The 10 spline is only available with a 3.27 first. The 26 spline has an option for a 2.87 first which would probably be beneficial for me. Have to think about that for a bit.

 

[Noobz347]

The taller first gear gives you more options in the Fox situation IMO.

3200ish lbs. soaking wet.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I went with the 26 spline TKX to get away from the T5’s 3.35 first gear. With 3.73’s it was worthless in that very little time was spent in it and I shift at 6800 rpm. The 2.87 first gear of the TKX is a lot better and more useful at least to me.

 

[nicholase]

The taller first gear gives you more options in the Fox situation IMO.

3200ish lbs. soaking wet.

I went with the 26 spline TKX to get away from the T5’s 3.35 first gear. With 3.73’s it was worthless in that very little time was spent in it and I shift at 6800 rpm. The 2.87 first gear of the TKX is a lot better and more useful at least to me.

Yeah, agree. I've always heard a good zone for first gear is an overall gear ratio around 9:1 - 10:1. Anything over that is pretty short. Which is where I'm at now with the T5 and 3.55's.

Stock T5, 3.55 rear end gears
3.35×3.55=11.89:1
TKX with 3.55 rear end gears
3.27×3.55=11.60:1
2.87×3.55=10.18:1

Stock T5 , stock 3.08 rear end gears
3.35×3.08=10.31:1

I'm thinking if I go with the 10 spline to reuse my clutch, I'll regret not taking the opportunity. I think the 2.87 first would really change the overall feel of the car for the better. Probably would feel real nice.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just realize the 10 spline only comes with a 0.72 fifth. The 26 spline is 0.68. It’s not a lot but the more gear you have in the rear end the Lowe the OD ratio the better.

Depending on your clutch manufacturer you can order just the clutch disc.

 

[nicholase]

Depending on your clutch manufacturer you can order just the clutch disc.

Yeah, thats a thought. Maybe I could get a couple new discs. I'll reach out to McLeod. Not sure if the twin discs can just be swapped out like that but they'll know.

 

[nicholase]

Just realize the 10 spline only comes with a 0.72 fifth. The 26 spline is 0.68. It’s not a lot but the more gear you have in the rear end the Lowe the OD ratio the better.

I noticed that. There is also a .81 OD available which would probably be pretty cool around town but not very practical for highway use.

I think the close ratio is what I'm after.
1st 2.87
2nd 1.89
3rd 1.28
4th 1.00
5th 0.68

 

[gkomo]

You just spent like $1,200 on your clutch setup didn't you? Oowee that would be hard to switch up.

 

[nicholase]

You just spent like $1,200 on your clutch setup didn't you? Oowee that would be hard to switch up.

For sure. It wasn't that much. But pretty close. Think it was just under a grand.

@AeroCoupe got me thinking about just swapping the discs. So I gave McLeod a call. They were super cool and helpful. It's rare to get someone this knowledgeable and helpful these days. Turns out I can send in both my clutch disc's and they can re hub them to 26 spline. Then I can just reassemble it with the rehubbed disc's and its like it was 26 spline all along. Its already run in so I won't need to go through another break in. It's 150 bucks, one week turnaround. So that's what I'm gonna do.

I grabbed a photo I took to try and jog my memory how they were assembled. Looks like the center smallest hub can just be swapped out.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Sweet! That’s quality customer service right there.

I tried to document the TKX install in my Couoe here but it’s not a detailed as your stuff:

Post in thread 'TKX Install in the Coupe'

Mar 12, 2026

So you can just use the VSS that comes on the TKX and program in the pulse count.

• AeroCoupe

Yours is a bit different with the clutch and all but thought it might help with everything else you will need.

 

[nicholase]

Sweet! That’s quality customer service right there.

Yeah, great support. This makes it a no brainer. Definitely going with the 26 spline 2.87 first. I think it will match up well with my 3.55's.

I tried to document the TKX install in my Couoe here but it’s not a detailed as your stuff:

Post in thread 'TKX Install in the Coupe'

Mar 12, 2026

So you can just use the VSS that comes on the TKX and program in the pulse count.

• AeroCoupe

Yours is a bit different with the clutch and all but thought it might help with everything else you will need.

I thought you covered it well. I'll give it a re read when I get closer and if I have a question I'll ask over there. Gonna go with the same shifter. I like the adjustability it seems to have.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I wish the handle on the MGW shifter was a little longer but that is just me. I got the comfort handle which was the longer one and its just a little shorter than the stock handle on the Pro5.0 that I had with the T5. I think it is more of I just need to get used to it kind of thing to be honest.

 

[nicholase]

Beautiful day today for some tuning. One of these days I'm going to rent a dyno for a few hours. To try and keep that time to a minimum I'm working on finding my way around the software confidentiality.

One thing about this kit is other than a few hickups with a bad crank position sensor and my uncovered fender well MAF causing an issue which resolved when I put the wheel liner back in, the tune has been bang on right out of the box. Runs like a new car without any oddities like bucking or surging. It's really too bad the folks at ProM were such terrible business people because the product seems incredibly excellent.

However I have noticed I feel I'd like the tune fatter under boost. I want it on the conservative side. I was seeing 12.2-12.5 under full boost and while it might be ok, a little fatter makes me feel better about it. Its actually really easy to adjust this.

My set up is MAF based and uses a lambda / load fuel and spark tables. Lambda is like AFR just written differently. A lambda of 1 represents stoichiometric. Anything higher than 1 is leaner then stoic, anything lower than 1 is richer than stoic.

The table is based on load. Here's the factory tune base fuel table.

Here's what's going on above. The PCM knows the bore and stroke of the engine. So it knows how much air could possibly be sucked in. It also know exactly how much air is actually being sucked in by the MAF. If more air is being sucked in than the engine should allow, it knows that is being forced in. In most cases a NA engine will operate at 85%-90% efficiency at full throttle. That would be the .80-.90 columns in the left axis. A NA vehicle would only use the portion of the table up to the .80-.90 line, or whereever it naturally maxes out at in terms of efficiently. Anything over .80-.90 would be due to forced induction. I'm using forced induction so under boost I utilize portions of the table over .90 and up to my maximum boost level.

So in my case, with the car running all dreamy and everything I'm only concerned with the boosted AFR's or in this case boosted lambda. So I click on the .90 square at 3500 RPM and drag it down to full load 2.0 and across to max RPM for that corner of the table. This highlights every cell in boost above 3500 RPM. A right mouse click brings up the calcutor which applies to everything in the section I highlighted. I subtracted .04 Lambda from all the cells. So my new table looks like this

So all the cells I highlighted are .04 Lambda richer across the board in that section. I took it for a ride with the fuel table open and checked COP or current operating point. This illuminates the cell you are in at the time and changes as you drive. I noticed a value of 1.4 load = 9psi boost. So the 1.4 line on the left axis is where I'll be maxing out at regarding load.


To convert lambda to AFR for a clear mental picture there are conversion tables like this.

So using the 1.4 (max boost) load column I'm requesting a Lambda of .78 or AFR of 11.47 at max RPM. I honestly noticed no seat of the pants dyno difference here. The factory tune was requesting .82 lambda or 12.05:1 AFR. So I'm a little fatter than factory. On the A pillar AFR guage I saw 11.5 at max RPM so it seems bang on.

Then I adjusted the spark table just like the fuel table. Again only concerned with boosted spark advance over load of .80-.90. I subtracted 1° from all the cells over .90 load 3000 RPM- up. Did a little driving and noticed no performance decrease. So I pulled another degree above .90 load from 3500RPM up. Again I didn't feel any lost performance, but a dyno will tell me better when I get to that point. So I pulled 2° total timing from all the boosted cells above 3500 RPM. Doing it this way keeps the factory tapers and engineering, I'm just pulling a few degrees evenly across the board.

I saved this as a new tune so my original is still intact if I want to revert to it. Just a touch of timing pulled out and a little fatter. This will all be easier to see factual results on a dyno, but the SOP dyno feels no difference. This thing pulls like an animal especially with the traction control getting dialed in better. I'm pretty impressed, its really running fantastic.

Was trying to take a video of the spark advance COP but my phone just keeps getting pulled out of the strap. The red square moves with RPM and load. This was after pulling 1°. I removed an additional degree a little later on. Audio is poor, its pretty lound in there and the phone gets all crackley. Its kinda cool to see the red square drop lower on the load table as boost builds amd across with RPM. You can tell when the boost really kicks in the phone goes sideways lol.