Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install

[nicholase]

This morning I stopped at the custom line shop. They do hydraulic, A/C and any other type of line you could think of. They made mine while I waited which was awesome. He cut off the excess and crimped on a new fitting.

I was actually looking at buying all the tools and fitting and crimps. Was at $300 in tools and parts. Having it done cost 35 bucks and 10 minutes. So thats probably the better choice, though I do like to buy tools and try new stuff.

Unfortunately the weather turned and it's in the mid 20's and snowing. So I don't want to do the A/C today. I want to finish it once I open up all the lines. Seems kinda cold to be recharging it today. Tomorrow looks better.

I have plenty to keep me busy. I took off work this week I'll be in the garage all day every day till its done. *EDIT "done".

Parts arriving sporadically over today and tomorrow.

 

[nicholase]

I have two somewhat larger wiring jobs I'll be working on. First is to finish wiring up my traction control, and second is to finish upgrading the wiring to my fuel pump.

I started both of these a while back, but was waiting for my vacation to tackle the remaining fuel pump wiring because both involve pulling back the carpet and seats. So I'll bang both out now.

When I had the engine out I ran 10 guage power and ground to inside the car and terminated it under the drivers seat. This was a good time to do that becasue it's real easy to route wires through the firewall when you can stand in the engine bay!

I'm running a 255lph pump. Haven't had any issues, but its one of those things that I feel best to do. Probably fine when it was all new, but maybe pushing it now. I also have an Aeromotve 340lph that I may need some day.

I ran the wires through a new grommet in the firewall just under the brake booster then tucked them into the inner wheel well when the liners were also out. I popped a few rivnuts to secure some P-Clamps. The wires come out the inner fender up by the battery so they are secure and out of sight.
Old picture from when I did it but don't think I covered it at all.

The rest of my parts for that will be here tomorrow. So with the carpet up and seat out I got back to the traction control. I got a cool switch from Billet Automotove buttons. I posted a link back when I got it but it's been a while so...
https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/. It's a really nice switch. Has a quality feel when you push it. Solid Billet aluminum made by some Australian dude.

Made a new harness for it. This switch can be configured normally open or normal closed. I'll be using it as a normally open so the white wires aren't used. I like to fold the ends over and then shrink wrap unused wires.

Same wiring style as always, staggered, soldered, and shrink wrapped.

I'm going to mount the switch in the center console. So this is where the harness will live now.

This is the guy.

So I was thinking about how I wanted to mount it and had some extruded aluminum in my metal pile. I kinda like how it looks with the holes in it. So I cut out a peice to fit.

I was going to paint it black, but think it looks neat natural.

When I get the pump done and battery hooked back up I'll set it up in the software and grab some pics of that process. I can either have the light on when the T/C is on, or light on when the T/C is off. Think I set it like most new cars are where the light is on when it's switched off.

I have a USB charger I'm going to install where the cigarette lighter is but it won't be here until tomorrow. So if it seems like I'm bouncing around, I am lol. Either way it was a productive fun day!

 

[nicholase]

So, funny story about car cigarette lighters. We have a late 90's Dodge at work that's a total POS. I had to use it one day and pick up an apprentice. Young kid. So he's sitting there and points at the cigarette lighter and says "what's that?" So I told him and he was amazed. He pushed it in and couldn't believe it was gonna get cherry red. Then I said "you gotta watch it though, sometimes they get stuck and come flying...." too late. That thing shot out at him and he grabbed it out of reflex and then chucked it when it burned his hand. That thing was bouncing all around in the cab at me and I'm trying to dodge it while driving and laughing like hell!

 

[nicholase]

I got some heat shields today from Flowmaster.

When I did my fuel lines I ran them in the factory location. I did run them through reflective heat barrier tubing. But figured a little more heat shielding wouldn't hurt. They make the heat shields specifically for the 40 series. So they fit real nice.

 

[nicholase]

My door striker bushings showed up. One fell out and the other one was cracked so swapped them both out. Used some tape as a guide to get them back the same. The one in the hatch fell out last summer, so I guess they were designed for about 26 years lol

 

[nicholase]

So back to the fuel pump wiring upgrade. Mine is a 1990 so the fuel pump relay is under the drivers seat. I'll be using the factory relay control wires (RD/BK and T/LG) to operate the new relay for the new fuel pump wires. Other than that the only portion of the circuit I need is the PK/BK that goes to the PCM. Highlighted in the image below.

In the factory EEC setup the highlighted PK/BK wire is energized when the fuel pump relay turns on to give the EEC confirmation the FP relay was activated. If that's eliminated it would trigger a code, 85 if i remember right. I'm not 100% sure I need it with my engine management, but becasue no schematic is available, I'm going to leave it. But I'll eliminate as much as I can and use one relay for my new pump wiring and also that PK/BK to the PCM. I'll also ditch the fusable link O/LB. Don't need that anymore to power the old relay. So one fuse link removed from service! Eventually I'm going to replace all those fuse links with a weatherproof fuse block. But not today.

As you can see in the schematic the PK/BK wire goes to the fuel pump and EEC. Where is the splice? That splice is under the drivers seat about 6" behind the Y in the harness. For refrence the drivers seat bolt hole and front stud are visable.

[

In the above picture the green connector is for the factory fuel pump relay. I dont need the PK/BK going to the fuel pump so I'll clip out the splice and just run the PK/BK that goes to the EEC to my new relay.

Moving to the back:

In the hatch area is where I'll need to run my new wiring out and under the car. Pic below is the factory fuel pump / fuel level sender harness. I disconnected it from the plug under the car behind the fuel tank. It pulls right up and out into the hatch. I don't want to drill any holes in the floor pan that I don't have to. So I'll use this hole one way or another.

Let's have a look see. With the wiring exposed there are two grounds, the PK/BK that used to power the pump which I dont need (will be clipping under drivers seat) and a yellow for the level sender.

I'm going to try and push my new fuel pump wiring through the factory rubber boot/grommet. But I'll need all the room I can get. So I'll pull out the PK/BK, and one of the grounds. I won't know until I drop the tank which ground is for the sender. So I'll wait for that.

The splice for the grounds is behind the taillight about a 18" from the boot/grommet. Which ever ground I don't need I'll clip close to the splice and tape it up.

 

[nicholase]

This morning I went to the marina and picked up some supplies for my relay / fuse panel board. I grabbed a fuse block. Its rated for 100a w/ 30a per circuit. I'll just be using the one for my fuel pump. Also grabbed a ground buss, a cutting board, and some hardware.

While waiting for my Summit delivery I spent some time studying schematics and planning out my wiring. Once it got here I started planning out my layout. I got some 10 guage wire, a few sizes of terminal rings, heavy duty wire loom, and a heavy duty relay. The 75a rating is overkill, but I like how the 30 and 87 terminal use screw contact plates for ring terminals. You can also see my cutting board has been trimmed up.

I drilled and tapped the board and mounted the components with 10/24 cap screws.

As mentioned eariler I hate drilling holes in the floor pan if it can be avoided. The paln is to use some 10/24 bolts through the carpet and carpet pad with steel fender washers backing up the nuts. I have some threaded rubber feet to thread on the stud to keep it from rattling on the floor pan. The weight of the mass backed carpet should hold it very secure. I'll have to trim down the bolts a little after I see how much thread I need.

I did a test fit with the seat and checked clearance and there's plenty. I set it up so when I slide the seat all the way forward I can access the fuse easily. Will look something like this:

The slit in the carpet is where the factory fuel pump relay bracket was mounted. So I'll run all my wires out from there.

 

[nicholase]

To run the new 10 gauge wire to the hatch area I loosened the interior quarter trim. I was able to pull it out far enough to pull it through. There is a large factory harness that runs right through there. So I followed it and secured it my new harness to it.

Looking at the rear of the floor pan into the quarter trim and under the rear seat. There is a plastic protective guard that protects the factory harness. I ran mine under it too.

Removing the drivers rear speaker helped. I was able to reach in and grap the new harness and work it through. Following that factory harness all the way back. Some zip ties to hold it in place.

And it disappears

Then in the hatch looking and reaching to the speaker I can grap the harness and pull it through still running along with the factory harness.

And now in the hatch around the taillights.

With the wire routed through I dropped the tank.

 

[nicholase]

Then removed the harness from it.

So let's see, I need to remove the PK/BK and ground for the pump but leave the signal and ground for the sender. With it unwrapped its easy to see what's going on. I de-pinned the unneeded wires.

Then squirted some sealer in the holes

Then I matched it up to the chassis side connectors and de-pinned those

Then with those un needed wires de-pinned I pulled them out of the boot/ grommet. I was able to pull my new wires through it.

Then I pulled back the PK/BK and BK wires I no longer need and clipped them. I sealed the end, its going to also be cut under the seat, but its good practice to seal cut ends. I taped up the ground splice where the ground wire went.

I'll merge my new harness here

Reattached the factory push pin

And down the hatch it went. Looks factory.

I debated adding a weather pack connector inder here, but it's really not needed. I can get the tank down this far and just unbolt my fuel pump leads. So I skipped the extra connection. Harness tucks nicely around tank.

All buttoned up

Now back to the clean stuff inside the car....

 

[nicholase]

With the rear portion all wired up I moved to the front. I began by clipping the feed wire to the old fuel pump relay. It's the G/LG under the driver seat.

If you notice in the schematic it shows an O/LB from the fuse link to the relay.

To be sure I wasn't missing something I traced it back. In the drivers kick panel is C203. It contains the O/LB and turns to G/LG there.

Under the hood below the starter solenoid is where fuse link D is located and the O/LB original FP feed which is no longer needed.

I ran the new fuel pump harness from under the seat to the battery alongside the factory harness. There are plastic clips that secure it to the chassis and the new harness fits in there nicely.

It attaches to the battery with a fuse holder. I like the ones from Painless wiring where you supply your wire rather than the pigtail type.

I mounted it on the shock tower. There was an existing hole there already so I just attached it with a screw style push pin.

The starter solenoid cover fits over top of it well for a little protection.

Back into the car. This is where I merged my front and back harnesses together. I'm also running the wiring for my boost and FP gauge to the new board. They're very minimal draw. This way all the electrical things I've added will be wired to the same location.

Then I put on some tunes and got wiring up my auxiliary fuse panel. I was able to get about half of it done on the work bench. Got as much wired as I could before I mounted it to the car.

Came a long way from a cutting board.

Got the battery hooked back up and everything works nice. I like having all this in one spot.

So I don't forget what I did and where I cut stuff, or if I ever have to troubleshoot I made a schematic. I'll print it out and laminate it. The portion of the FP wiring might come in handy to someone.

 

[gkomo]

Man is making his own manuals, next level!

 

[nicholase]

Man is making his own manuals, next level!

Lol. They actually make the wiring easier for me. I plan it out, make a schematic and then build it like the schematic.

Also, since I turned 50 the steel trap that used to be my brain is pretty mushy sometimes. So having something printed out I can use down the road has proven helpful. All the pictures I take are for that also. I keep a folder with them in it for future refrence.

 

[nicholase]

With the fuel system finished I moved back to the A/C. Got my lines installed. The line I had shortened fits great now. I'm not sure how the kit could be so far off. The peice cut off was 12" long. That's WAY too long.

The accumulator doesn't fit quite like factory. I had to make some adjustmets to the holder. But it's in and does fit. When I first applied vacuum I heard it leaking at the pressure switch. Not sure what the deal was with it but it wouldnt seal. So I grabbed one from the local parts store and it fixed the issue.

The low side line is pretty long too, but you gotta draw a line somewhere lol. It bugs me a little but I'll get over it I think. I'll probably put a P-clamp on the camber/caster plate to keep it from rubbing.

This line actually fits! Clears the distributor pretty good and no issues w/ the Vortech.

So I'll keep the vacuum pump going for another hour or two. Then charge it up.

 

[nicholase]

With the A/C under vacuum I took a few minutes to set up the traction control in the software. I set the indicator light to be on when T/C is switched off.

There is a myriad of adjustability. The timing reduction and ramp up as well as many others scalars are configurable. From what I've read it's set up pretty decent out of the box and not too intrusive. So I'll start there.

I do have instructions in the software, so later in the summer I'll probably go through them. Definitely need to read it over all a few more times.

'This Old Farm Shop" guy did a demo. (He makes nice valve cover baffles that mount in the oil fill tube for the the guys that have to remove the internal baffle for rocker clearance. I'm running a modified version in my TF cover). The T/C seems effective in his video and I believe he didn’t do any tweaks.


View: https://youtu.be/HtgC9umXhBM?si=SCBTKUmoFtuantv0


I laugh everytime I watch it. If I did that in my neighborhood the cops would be escorting me away in cuffs!

 

[nicholase]

Got my A/C all charged up. Turned out to be a decent day, around 60. I'm so happy the compressor is activated by the new engine management with no issues. I really didn't know until after I put in enough freon to circulate the oil through. Then I fired it up and heard that lovely click of the compressor clutch.
Nice and quiet. The EMS seems to be learning idle strategy with the extra load.

 

[nicholase]

While I was charging the A/C I finished enabling the T/C. Had to save to tune and then write to all. Got er. Gotta say, it's pretty cool. Can't wait to try it out.

 

[nicholase]

Super happy with my progress this week. It's been a really long time since the car was actually road ready. All last summer I was waiting on my EMS and while I could drive it and break in the clutch, I had no tune at all. So I was just being super careful not to get into the boost. So it's been two winters and one summer since I could actually drive it properly.

Finally feeling like this is all coming together! Feels good for sure.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Man nice f’n work!!! You are gonna have a great summer playing with the tune and just driving.

Any chance you can scan and load up the instructions to the injection system to the “Resources” tab at the top of the forums? This is just in case someone else inherits one of these systems and doesn’t have any paperwork.

 

[nicholase]

Man nice f’n work!!! You are gonna have a great summer playing with the tune and just driving.

Any chance you can scan and load up the instructions to the injection system to the “Resources” tab at the top of the forums? This is just in case someone else inherits one of these systems and doesn’t have any paperwork.

Thanks. Looking forward to that!

That's a good idea about dropping it to the resources. With them out of business and the website erased none of this is available online anymore. Luckily I saved backups for all the stuff.

I uploaded the install PDF to the resource tab. Says waiting approval. I  think I did it right....If it's editable I'll drop images little by little.

 

[AeroCoupe]

@Noobz347 - can you guide him on the above?