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    automatic help

    it all depends, need more info. What heads, intake, fuel system, tires, cats or not etc. To get the most of the stall you're going to need sticky tires or you'll just go up in smoke or have to leave at an idle and the stall will be wasted. You could get way down in the 13's with the right...
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    Okay so now my 373's are in....next??

    the valvebody will eliminate the stupid FORD 1-D-OD pattern and make it the preferred 1-2-3. This helps in a bunch of ways. You don't have to do the 1-d-1 shuffle to use all of 2nd gear. You can get an aftermarket ratchet type shifter because OD is engaged with an electric switch. No worrying...
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    Okay so now my 373's are in....next??

    www.edgeracingconverters.com is an excellent choice for a stall. You can go with the cheaper but effective stock size lockup converter or go with the 9.5" stall custom configured for your setup. Are you sure you want the Lentech MVB? You may be better off with the semi auto Street Terminator...
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    highest stall for stock cam?

    Give www.edgeracingconverters.com a good look. I and a bunch of others on here have them and they work great and their customer service is fantastic. I'd seriously look into a 3000 9.5" stall. Gets into the revs quicker due to its smaller diameter and lighter weight. A good trans cooler is...
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    Question for AFR head users, or any 331/347 users

    I think my combo is pretty close to what you are going to be using. I have the 185's with 60cc. I'm running a Lunati cam with 500/510 lift but with 1.7 rockers. I didn't want to spring for the new rocker arms so I kept the pedestal mount 1.7's. Works out to about .525/.530 lift. Car works great...
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    AOD problems, any ideas?

    Give www.lentechautomatics.com and check out their warrantied trannys. Will hold all the power you can throw at it. Edge makes an awesome converter, go with a 3000 stall and you won't be disappointed.
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    Understanding my AOD and its potential

    Full manual means you do all the work. Need to downshift, you pull the shifter back. Semi-manual will work as auto doing all the shifting or you can change the gears if you feel like it. The switch to engage OD is an add on that you wire (or your mechanic). Pretty easy to wire up, just like...
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    Understanding my AOD and its potential

    Just a quick heads up here. You are describing a semi-manual valvebody. Lentech's street terminator and the GER mentioned above. A FULL manual valvebody means you have to use the shifter EVERY time you want to shift gears, UP and DOWN. Something to really consider when deciding what you want in...
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    AOD or Manual?

    best ET, go with the stick. The aod sucks up more power than the stick will. More consistent ET's, do the aod. It's depends on what you want to do with the car.
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    Understanding my AOD and its potential

    A stall and a torque converter are the same thing. Stall is short for the "stall speed" of the torque converter. Stock is in the 1500 range and not very close to where these motors make power. So you have to wait for the power to come in when you reach the 2600-3500 rpm range. A higher stall...
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    Understanding my AOD and its potential

    the shuffle is a way of holding second gear longer. You start in 1st and shift up to D, wait for the shift and then pull the shifter back into 1st to hold 2nd. When you want 3rd you shift up to D again. To get a valvebody, look at www.lentechautomatics.com. They have 2 styles. Full manual and...
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    Interchangeable torque converters???

    if your mechanic thinks its a C6, i'd be looking for a new mechanic. Unless it was swapped out before you got it. Are you planning on doing the work yourself? If you aren't, the labor is going to cost you more than you plan on speniding on the replacement converter.
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    Understanding my AOD and its potential

    Wow, lots of good info TJM. For those that asked, an auto will outperform a stick almost everytime at the track. Way more consistent and with the addition of a air shifter solenoid, it will shift at the same rpm everytime you go down the track. Throw a transbrake in and it will leave at the...
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    Disapointing 1/4 mile ET

    youo've got all kinds of power just get it hooked up. Slicks are a must with that much of a modded engine if you want to get any decent times. I'd look into an Edge racing 3000 stall converter. I'm running 12.35 with 107 mph. Like Thumper said, traction is all important. Don't be suprised if...
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    Rim Screws, need answer asap! racing in 2 days!!

    most of the time you should be able to get away without putting screws in. Some rims seem to hold the bead of the tire better than others. Mark the valvestem and the tire and give it a runs. See if they moved at all. If you do plan on using screws, don't cheap out, get the right screws from a...
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    Locking or non-Locking

    While BocSez is correct, it sounds like you are not really looking for an all out racecar. Lockup can work very well and seems more suited to his needs. And I do run a non lockup but my car is 90% race and 10% cruising.
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    Locking or non-Locking

    from the factory all aod's are lockup but can be converted to non lockup. For a daily driver, I'd go lockup. Lentech can make their stuff hold up to some serious power even in lock style. Non lockup is definatley more suited for the track.
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    converter vs street radials

    WAAAAY too much information :lol:
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    Ideas on high ET at track

    I run 12.50's with that MPH. You need some tires for sure and some suspension wouldn't hurt either. With good tires your clutch will probably give up the ghost pretty quickly. Upgrade both the clutch and tires to get the most of all that money you spent on the motor.
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    It still overheats, not sure what else to do...

    I think this has something to do with your inability to read any codes. your computer may be unintentionally taking fuel away from your motor because of some bad sensor readings. Since you can't dump any codes and neither can your mechanic, something is not right and may be computer is not...
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