1.7 RR worth it on stock engine?

I think you need to upgrade those weak stock valve springs. 1.7 ratio is OK for street use if you are not going to a custom cam. Will give you a little more power at the top end and should not loose any on the bottom. It is not a big gain but worth it if you will eventually go with TB, Intake, pullies, and exhaust upgrades. Sort of a cheap way to gain a little more smog legal cam.

Pedestal mounts should be fine with a street motor with bolt ons.

my friend put 1.7's on his stock cam 110,000 mile motor and had valve float before he hit 5500 rpms with the stock springs. He pulled the 1.7's back off till he got his new heads.

I guess my question is if you are going to the expense of a new head why not go with a custom grind cam and dispense with the need for the hig lift rockers??

Its absolutely worth it!
Every bit helps-bro. It takes a lot of small parts to work hand and hand-to compliment one another, ya know. i did it, felt SOTP as well. Im mean not rocket launching, but definitely felt it!

Ant

mob with the B cam at 480 lift by itself, adding 1.7s would put it around 512 lift and stock springs can handle that well.... i think....

On a Relatively stock Motor (Intake, catbaack, Pulleys) What i a good cam to go with when putting in 1.7 Rockers and Comp Springs?

1.7 crane rockers were worth 12hp to the rear on a GT40X motor carbed 650 holley. Don't know about stock cammed motor though probably 8-10hp heads become restiction at higher lift. If the motor is over 100k rebuild it and get some better flowing heads then use the rockers Just my .02

Foxfan88 said:

mob with the B cam at 480 lift by itself, adding 1.7s would put it around 512 lift and stock springs can handle that well.... i think....

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very re-assuring lol

the 1.7 roller rockers will add .030 lift to your cam. some people get lift and duartation mixed up. upgraded valve spings is highly recomended. and if these are going on stock heads than pedestal mount is what you want. stud mount is for aftermareket heads. will you feel it? yes you might get a small sotp feel similiar to an underdrive pulley swap. imho wait for heads and a good aftermarket cam.

Unless you get a set of used RR's, your going to pay at least $230 minimal. (Crane 1.7's require longer pushrods, so you end up paying even more) So why not put that money towards something else. With stock E7's it won't make much difference because they don't flow any better past 440 lift anyways. I'd rather just get a cam like a TFS1 or other mild cam if you want more lift. Even then, with an intake that only flows 130cfm per runner, it just won't quite do what you want.

Take your $230-280 and spend it towards:
porting the lower intake, buying a used intake
gear
cam
better shifter/quadrant
well I could name other things too.

Stock valve springs can't hardly handle the stock cam, especially with some age to them. You can get a decent spring upgrade for around $100. I had the B-cam on 1.7's, .512 lift, thumper heads with the double springs, no valve float at rev limiter.

90mustangGT said:

(Crane 1.7's require longer pushrods, so you end up paying even more)

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quick question. i just swapped in an e cam and gt40s and im using stoc pr's and rockers. my 1.7's will be here soon. do i need longer pr's with an e cam?

i just got my used crane 1.7 for 77 with shipping

legalize420gt95 said:

quick question. i just swapped in an e cam and gt40s and im using stoc pr's and rockers. my 1.7's will be here soon. do i need longer pr's with an e cam?

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You shouldn't need different pushrods unless the 1.7's are the Cobra type "energizer" Crane units.

I had a 1989 stock gt, bone stock, 284,000 miles. took the heads off, ported/blended, new manley valves and valve train, 1.7s and a girdle. Threw a matched weiand xcelerator intake manifold and a holley 650dp with a holley blue pump and holley regulator. Full exhaust -- long tubes with x pipe and purple horney glassback mufflers into turn downs. Car made 344whp, 342wtq. For a CHEAP, i mean CHEAP upgrade -- this **** on a fuel injection setup. Go Figure. All together spent 275 dollars for the carb, pump, intake and rr's on ebay.. plus 40 bucks for a carb rebuild kit.

Pretty badass if you ask me..and for those who say you need new springs? Err -- car now has 294k on it.. and uhh no issues.. no oil consumption and 185psi on all 8 cylinders. so.. !?

90mustangGT said:

You shouldn't need different pushrods unless the 1.7's are the Cobra type "energizer" Crane units.

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I used the stock pushrods with my Cobra/crane 1.7's.The 1.7's work really well especially if you want to want to maintain the street friendly stock cam.I waited until I changed the heads before I put them on.

If you don't take the time to check for the proper pattern of the rocker on the valve stem face, it's all a shot in the dark. NO ONE can say what your combo will need.

People give out alot of misinformation about stock valve springs and cam. 1.7 rockers will work on a stock 5.0 motor 100%, doesn't matter if you have 200 miles or 200,000 miles on the motor.

I've dynoed my motor before and after, and 1.7 roller rockers on a stock 5.0 motor is a 5-6rwhp gain. Thats like 10-15hp at the crank give or take a few.

I dont think you have to use longer pushrods on the pedestal mount 1.7 crane RRs , they make the ford racing ones also .........