13 or 14:1 possible with off the shelf parts?

[tjm73]

I don't know much about the 2.3 OHC other than they are tough as nails. But I am looking at these plentiful engines for a power sourch for a project to have a remote electrical power system. An off the grid kind of base camp if you will.

But it would be powered not by traditional gasoline, but straight fuel grade alcohol, which I would make myself. I've gathered information on the needed changes for an engine to operate on alky and now am looking to suitable powerplants. A V8 would be easy but even a 302 would be twice the engine I would need.

Seems I should be able to mill the head and put in some pistons to really bump the compression to what alcohol likes which is around 13:1 or 14:1.

The engine would run a very narrow, constant and steady rpm range of about 4000-4500rpm. Timing would be set accordingly.

So can this engine deliver those elevated compression ratios?

 

[samickguy15]

???

Are you making a generator or something???

You could probably mill the heads, get high compression (10:1) pistons, but that would probably not cut it. I might suggest welding the heads and then machining or grinding back smooth. The other options are Racer Walsh or Esslinger Engineering. They could probably make a head or have a head to suit your needs.

Best of luck to you.

 

[tjm73]

Are you making a generator or something???

Yes. I believe the 2.3 is the perfect engine for this purpose. They are plentiful for parts, cheap and tough.

The only limiting factor is boosting the C/R to alcohol friendly territory. Since it would be a stationary engine, I'm most concerned with setting the engine up to be a dedicated alcohol only engine. Alcohol will work with 10:1 but will work better with 13:1 or 14:1. Kinda like a gasoline engine will work with 7:1 compression, but will work better with 10:1.

How big is the combusion chamber volume (cc)? And how much can be milled of the production 2.3 head?

 

[Red_LX]

If you need a CR that high, I figure your only bet would be flat-top pistons and milling a bunch off the head. Couldn't tell you what that would give you, but if the pistons are designed to give a 10:1 CR without milling, then a milled head should get you into the upper 11's, maybe 12's. Of course, then you're going to have to check piston to valve clearance and all that. The 2.3L is a non-interference engine by design, but once you start doing all that milling and stuff it will change that.

I dunno

 

[tjm73]

The 2.3L is a non-interference engine by design, but once you start doing all that milling and stuff it will change that.

Thanks. I hadn't thought about timing belt failure and the repercusions of such an event. Perhaps an overhead cam engine isn't the best option. Good bit of info to consider.

 

[RustBucket]

I don't think it would matter if it were OHC or pushrod. If you build a zero deck height motor, and use domed or flat top pistons then start milling heads, piston to valve clearance becomes an issue. A chain or gear driven timing setup would be more reliable, but you can counter that with routine maintenance. Just build the thing so it's easy to change the belt, decide on a service interval that you're comfortable with, install a good hour meter, and rock on. Depending on how serious you are about this project and what your budget is, you could have a set of pistons made for that application. IIRC, the pistons sit down in the hole a bit at TDC. You could deck the block to create a zero deck height, or have a set of pistons made with a higher compression heighth. Maybe even a combination of the two if the deck is too thin or will be after machining. You'll probably still end up fly cutting the pistons for valve relief, but I don't think that will negate the effects of the machine work by much.

The nice thing about decking and milling inline motors is that you don't have to machine the intake manifold to match the head afterwards.

 

[tjm73]

I don't think it would matter if it were OHC or pushrod. If you build a zero deck height motor, and use domed or flat top pistons then start milling heads, piston to valve clearance becomes an issue. A chain or gear driven timing setup would be more reliable, but you can counter that with routine maintenance. Just build the thing so it's easy to change the belt, decide on a service interval that you're comfortable with, install a good hour meter, and rock on. Depending on how serious you are about this project and what your budget is, you could have a set of pistons made for that application. IIRC, the pistons sit down in the hole a bit at TDC. You could deck the block to create a zero deck height, or have a set of pistons made with a higher compression heighth. Maybe even a combination of the two if the deck is too thin or will be after machining. You'll probably still end up fly cutting the pistons for valve relief, but I don't think that will negate the effects of the machine work by much.

The nice thing about decking and milling inline motors is that you don't have to machine the intake manifold to match the head afterwards.

I'm thinking more along the lines of a smaller Ford I6 now or maybe and old Model A or Model B I4 engine. They have timing gears, no chain. And they run FOREVER. You almost can't hurt them as long as they have oil and coolant.

 

[freakintiger]

Muffle it real good, you don't want FEMA finding your wilderness safe house...

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

have you looked into useing a carburated motor and burning Natual gas, or propane. The nice feature there is you dont have to refuel it all the time. Just use LP tanks (if portable) or hook it right up to natural gas..

Dr.

 

[tjm73]

have you looked into useing a carburated motor and burning Natual gas, or propane. The nice feature there is you dont have to refuel it all the time. Just use LP tanks (if portable) or hook it right up to natural gas..

Dr.

Yeah I'm looking into that option also, but I like the alcohol because I can produce it myself if need be.

Oh yeah, and no matter what it would run a carb.

 

[bhuff30]

Flat tops pistons and mill the head. This will get you into the 12's. Take a look at what the circle track people do. There arn't many if any here, but they would better be able to help you. Basically, you mill the head until you just barely see the holes for the intake manifold. This will be near .120 shaved off.

 

[RustBucket]

If you go with a six-pop, the 300 is the most reliable and probably most plentiful of the bunch. Gear-driven timing setup and your choice of carbs or EFI. I'll bet you could even find the pistons and such through Clifford performance.

There's some pretty good info sources in this thread on 6 cyl stuff.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=540212&highlight=250

 

[tjm73]

If you go with a six-pop, the 300 is the most reliable and probably most plentiful of the bunch. Gear-driven timing setup and your choice of carbs or EFI. I'll bet you could even find the pistons and such through Clifford performance.

There's some pretty good info sources in this thread on 6 cyl stuff.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=540212&highlight=250

Yeah my research was pointing me in the 300 I6 direction already. Thanks for the link I'll check it out. I'm a fan of the 300 already anyways. So it's kinda familiar to me a little bit anyway.