140 amp alt w/ 4ga power wire - Circuit breaker or fuse?

TheUser

Active Member
Jul 25, 2003
1,859
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Springfield, MO
I have a 140 amp powermaster alt on the GT w/ a 4ga wire from the alt to starter relay. I've read about an in-line fuse to prevent a fire, so I went to a local stereo shop to get a 150 amp fuse and fuse holder and it was like $45 for the holder and then like $15 for the fuse. That's crazy! I told him what it's for and he said a circuit breaker would be good ($40). What do you think? Can I get a better deal somewhere online? Should I shoot for a circuit breaker (sounds like a good idea to me), or a fuse and holder? I kinda like the circuit breaker idea so I won't have to worry about replacing fuses, but $40 is more than I expected to spend.

I know Jrichker posted links to the fuse and holder at www.partsexpress.com - the links wouldn't work at the time, but I went to the site and found a bunch of stuff - not sure if I should go the cheap route or what.

Any advice appreciated.
 
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On my 3G conversion, I went with this Stinger platnium coated ANL fuse holder, and a 150A platnium ANL fuse..(I did the 120A PA unit).

Fuse Holder - $10.95

150A ANL Fuse - $5.95

Here it is installed...

project9.jpg


:)
 
sn9550 said:
Do a search for "mega fuse". Theey are alot cheaper. I bought a wafer type fuse and holder and I spent like $50. The Mega fuse and holder is $15-20.


Aren't those just an ANL fuse with a plastic box type holder? I prefer the platnium coated for corrosion resistance alone, but to each their own....

:)
 
sn9550 said:
insane3D I posted at the same time as you so I didn't see your post until after. Mine was gold plated and it's the only one I could find at the time. They saw me coming I guess :shrug: .

Oh, no sweat man, I didn't mean to make it sound like that now that I read it again. I'm always looking for the best "bang for the buck", so I figured if he could get something a tad nicer for the same $$, it might be a better idea.

That's the beauty of these forums...you can get different options from different members, and choose what's best for you.

:hail2: :cheers:
 
Should I be looking for something water resistant? I was looking at the links from Insane3D and was leaning towards that setup, but they say not recommended for outside of the vehicle due to no water resistance. The setup I have now sure isn't water resistant. Should I worry about this or should I look for something water resistant? That's why the ones at the stereo shop were so high - they were water resistant.
 
stuff that is gold plated is done so for corrosion resistance, no?

I would get something pretty much sealed - you can always do things to make it really sealed.

I live in an arid climate so I dont worry about it much. In a rainy place, I would (grew up in Seattle - moisture got everywhere). Though I cant make it out well, that set up that Insane posted a pic of looks like it could be sealed (and is pretty tight already).....

Just my unsolicited two cents. good luck bud.
 
now that I think about it, the only water I plan on the car seeing is when I wash it. I guess water resistance isn't so much of an issue for me right now. However, $10.95 for the holder + $10.95 for one fuse and since I'd be stupid to not have a backup fuse + $10.95 = $32.85 + shipping would get me close to the $40 that I'd spend for the water resistant 150amp circuit breaker at the stereo shop. Maybe I'll do that after all...
 
TheUser said:
now that I think about it, the only water I plan on the car seeing is when I wash it. I guess water resistance isn't so much of an issue for me right now. However, $10.95 for the holder + $10.95 for one fuse and since I'd be stupid to not have a backup fuse + $10.95 = $32.85 + shipping would get me close to the $40 that I'd spend for the water resistant 150amp circuit breaker at the stereo shop. Maybe I'll do that after all...
LOL - I am glad I am not the only one who goes out of their way to save a buck, wastes a lot of time, only to find that the original (expensive) was is easiest.

But it is the journey that is fun. :)
 
I have a 130amp and bought a 120amp fuse from bennett and just soldered the wires together (bus fuse). I would suggest a fuse smaller then the amps put out by the alternator so the fuse is the first to go. A fuse doesn't exactly blow at what it says, usually higher.

*edit: I spent about 7 or 8 bucks for the fuse, tape and plastic cover....
 
To make it waterproof, put some clear RTV around the edges of the fuse holder and the holder cover. Then put some more RTV on the wire entrance to the holder cover to seal it up.

The trick is to do it neatly so that it looks good. Some masking tape carefully applied will do wonders in that department. Apply the RTV to the parts, and when it dries the next day, remove the masking tape & the excess RTV will come off with it.
 
It doesn't have to be waterproof, and that was just a comment from someone who bought it. I mounted mine vertically so any water that got in there would drain out. I've been driving around and washing the motor without isse even getting the fuse and holder wet.

Also, as for buying a second fuse, those fuses are rated to last 15 seconds @ like 300% of their rating...I'd doubt you would blow that accidentally...

IMO, waterproof is not needed...
 
Insane3D said:
It doesn't have to be waterproof, and that was just a comment from someone who bought it. I mounted mine vertically so any water that got in there would drain out. I've been driving around and washing the motor without isse even getting the fuse and holder wet.

Also, as for buying a second fuse, those fuses are rated to last 15 seconds @ like 300% of their rating...I'd doubt you would blow that accidentally...

IMO, waterproof is not needed...

You are prefectly right, but waterproofing it is for those who worry (needlessly) about such things. Some people do...
 
Fair enough...I can relate to that.

For instance...I'm guessing the 1/0 gauge wire I used for my positive battery terminal is nowhere near needed...and yet, I have it anyhow. ;)

:nice: :cheers: