1965 Mustang FB-jacking it up with the pinch welds

[Ger47]

Fellow members, I am in the process of starting a restomod on my car. I purchased a Quickjack to ease on lifting the car but ran into trouble as the lifting or jacking points under the car (frames and rear torque boxes) are not in line and the Quick jack platforms for lifting have to be parallel with one another. I have researched and in some web sites it indicates that lifting the car by the pinch welds is Ok on others it indicates the contrary. Could someone help me make a decision on this? the car will be lifted evenly so flexing the structure I would thing is nil.
Appreciate your thoughts on this.

 

[horse sence]

I always lift from the torque boxes but with wood between them and the jack to spread the load . The original lifting point is the pinch weld at the rear but i have seen the pinch weld bent from doing it in the incorrect locations

 

[Ger47]

I always lift from the torque boxes but with wood between them and the jack to spread the load . The original lifting point is the pinch weld at the rear but i have seen the pinch weld bent from doing it in the incorrect locations

Jim, thank you for your comment. If I lift the car by the pinch welds designated by Ford I will make sure that I do it with a support that has a groove to protect that pinch weld, but my main concern is that I want to avoid flexing and twisting the car. permanently

 

[horse sence]

Twisting the car perminantly probably wouldnt happen ,damaging the rocker or pinch weld could ,the area that has the notch has a reinforcement plat inside ,at least in the rear ,the front does not they just relied on over lapped panels for strength

 

[horse sence]

The jack reinforcement plate inside the rocker isnt much in strength ,it probably 16 gauge ,the torque boxes are at least 12 or 14 gauge ,and with a wood block to spread the load it is actually the strongest area for a jack . I have seen torque boxes where someone has used a bottle jack with no block to spread the load and it makes a nice dent in the bottom

 

[Ger47]

The jack reinforcement plate inside the rocker isnt much in strength ,it probably 16 gauge ,the torque boxes are at least 12 or 14 gauge ,and with a wood block to spread the load it is actually the strongest area for a jack . I have seen torque boxes where someone has used a bottle jack with no block to spread the load and it makes a nice dent in the bottom

Thank you.

 

[manicmechanic007]

What year is your Mustang? The old ones will cave in just as easy as the new ones. I use a hockey puck or a rounded block of hardwood for my floor jack. The pinch welds will bend over if abused. The plates are an alternative. I try to jack from the subframe when I can

 

[zookeeper]

I’ve always jacked mine up in the front by the A arms, one at a time and in the rear by the center of the rear axle. Lots of older cars have front sub frames bent to hell because older gas station hoists used them to lift with.

 

[Ger47]

What year is your Mustang? The old ones will cave in just as easy as the new ones. I use a hockey puck or a rounded block of hardwood for my floor jack. The pinch welds will bend over if abused. The plates are an alternative. I try to jack from the subframe when I can

Its a 1965 FB. I will jack the car with 4X4's with a groove to protect the pinch welds that Ford has designated for lifting the cat. I have a QuickJack so the car will be lifted evenly on all four jacking points. I need the space to upgrade the steering. suspensions and brakes to discs
Thanks for the question