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1966 Mustang rear fender wells

  • Thread starter Thread starter firstyearta
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2010
F

firstyearta

New Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 3, 2010
#1
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #1
I have been helping a friend work on a '66 Fastback that he has had for many years. Recently we have been putting on quarter skins and outer fender wells. The quarters and wells were bought probably ten years ago. When we went to install the fender well last night, it seems to be the wrong shape. The curvature just does not match the inner well.

I am wondering if this was a common problem with these wells a while back (remember, they are maybe 10 years old)? Or, is this still a common problem. We have no problem ordering up new ones but I don't want to order another set and find out they are no better.

Another question about the outer fender well... the ones we have, have a square flat tab at the front edge, about 3" to 4" square. What is this for? It almost seems as though it should not be there.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Mar 3, 2010
#2
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #2
Yes, the tab should be there. It's the cap for the rear end of the rocker.

It's not unusual for repro wheelhouse parts to not line up, force it.

View attachment 228088
 
F

firstyearta

New Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 3, 2010
#3
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #3
I wondered if the tab was supposed to be bent over to fill the end of the rocker. I really wasn't sure though as it surly does not line up well with the rocker.

The front curvature of the well is fine but after about the top is starts to go off and is about 1.5" off at the rear.
 
6

64/2stang

Member
Oct 30, 2009
22
0
6
Mar 3, 2010
#4
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #4
you can try to use 2" self tap-er to suck it up or big vice-grip or two/3 then make spot weld
 
D

danny clemens

Member
May 4, 2005
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16
Mar 3, 2010
#5
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #5
I ran into that problem many years ago on a coupe. If you do force them together which is probably the only solution it could change the shape of your quarter. Make sure that you are satisfied with the quarter contour before you weld.
 
F

firstyearta

New Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 3, 2010
#6
  • Mar 3, 2010
  • #6
Has anyone bought any of these recently? If so, where and how did they fit? I hate forcing parts that don't really fit to fit. I'd much rather just buy some better ones... if they are available.
 
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kttrucks

Member
Apr 28, 2008
57
0
6
Tennessee
Mar 8, 2010
#7
  • Mar 8, 2010
  • #7
you're going to have to "mock up" the parts and compromise with your adjustments. There's no magic bullet with replacement parts.... even the most expensive ones require some fitting, although it's better to build things from the inside out, fitting your outer quarter last... if you still have that option. It's better if you draw adjustments from more than one part, but keep the outer panel free of as much stress during this process as possible to minimize distortion. Pie-cuts, relief cuts and trimming are very common in replacing sheet metal components on an older unibody car regardless of the age, make or manufacturer of the replacement parts. my best advice is to do one side a t a time, using the opposite side or even another car for reference.

I usually use self drilling screws to get things in place without "locking' them with a welder first... that way if you have to borrow from one part you can undo things and make adjustments fast and easy.

Good luck!

KT.
 
R

runawayabc123

Member
Mar 9, 2007
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0
16
Wisconsin
Mar 12, 2010
#8
  • Mar 12, 2010
  • #8
Welcome to body work?

It has pretty much been said, you has to "convince" it to fit how you want it too. You only other choice is trying to find NOS OEM quaters or a donner car, both will likely be very expensive and still require a little "convincing" to work.
 
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