Should I Get a New Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball Stud?


lube between the nut and the face
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
Claremore, OK
Took the T5 out to get it freshened up and decided to pull the bell housing, clutch and flywheel to chase a small oil leak and to just look the clutch components over being the car was torn down this far already.

So the T5 needed 2nd gear and the 1/2 slider and the 3/4 slider was a little suspect to that got put in new as well along with a new input shaft bearing retainer, shift rail lugs, and a new reverse brake cone being I snapped the tab of the one in the trans a few years back. Also ended up replacing the shift rail due to the roller on the fifth/reverse lever pin/roller assembly having two big flat spots and sloppy loose on the pin. My buddy has about 20 T5's in a connex that are in various stages of broken that he robs parts off of and we found a really good shift rail so that got cleaned up and installed. Got the master rebuild kit from Hanlon and it was mostly complete due to my dumbassery, I failed to read where you need to call them if you want the brass synchro for reverse. Mine was still in good shape so we just reused it.

Anyhow, pulled the bell housing, clutch assembly and the flywheel fully expecting the small oil leak to be the rear main. No oil in the bell housing but it was on the back of the bell housing spacer plate. Found the leak to be the passenger valve cover which I am hoping that by tightening the nuts on the studs (yes my valve covers are studded) the leak will stop as I have the blue Fel-Pro performance gaskets and the back two nuts were a couple turns loose.

Cleaned up the plate and bell housing at the car wash with oven cleaner and a brush. Got back to the house and removed the pivot ball stud and inspected it and the surface on the clutch fork that the release bearing contacts. I ordered new parts and have them on hand and they are going in. The pivot ball is roached and the clutch fork has some significant wear. The ball stud is original to the '93 bell housing and I cannot remember where I sourced the clutch fork.

Pivot Ball Wear:





Clutch Fork Wear:


Waiting on the clutch fork to get here which should be Wednesday. I also emailed RAM Clutches tech support to see what the facing thickness is new and what the minimum thickness is before it needs to be replaced. The flywheel side looks to be thin but I have no idea what it was new as its been a few years since it was installed. My guess is I am going to be ordering a new clutch set and having the flywheel resurfaced.

Anyhow, just thought I would post up the wear on the pivot ball stud and the clutch fork so if folks didn't know or think about it they do wear. Both of which will add to a poor shifting experience with the T5 according to what I have read.
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Yeah, had a new one ordered and already installed and the grease will be put in the cup of the fork as well as some on the input shaft retainer for the TO bearing.

Got word back from RAM this morning with regards to clutch disc this mess. This is for the Power Grip HD which is P/N 98794:

“We measure the complete thickness with the disc squeezed together. If it is the HD model, the disc is .335 new and good to around .290-.295.”

Checked my disc this morning with calipers and it ranges from 0.330” to 0.331” so it’s going back in for sure.
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Take a piece of sand paper and knock the glaze off the disc, just a quick scuff on both sides, you got the flywheel resurfaced or a new one right?
Light coat of grease on the splines and the cone surface of the trans where the tob slides, but you knew that already, right?
Yeah, not my first rodeo with clutch installs and surface prep. Took pictures of the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces and sent them to the guy that does all the machining on my motors. He said if the same clutch is going back in just knock the glaze off and they are good to go. I have a sanding block and will remove the dowls when that gets done. No hot spots or anything like that so they will get wiped down with brake cleaner after the glaze is knocked off and everything put back in. Was not having any issues with slippage so I am not worried about it. If the clutch plate was closer to 0.290" I was just going to get a new clutch set and then the flywheel would definitely have been ground.

Will put a hundred or so miles on it before it gets hammered on just for good measure.
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Got the new clutch fork today. It already had grease on it so just going to use it and move on. Took a couple pictures of the fork, pivot ball stud, and put together.




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That don’t got nothing on the pivot ball I pulled out of my bellhousing. Definitely replace it. Don’t forget to stick some grease in there, but the new clutch fork should come with some in it - if it’s motorcraft.

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Finally got the answer from RAM after a few emails back and forth with their tech support. The thickness of the clutch material on the flywheel side new is 0.074" as measured from the face of the material to the clutch plate. The thickness on the pressure plate side is 0.145 as measured from the face of the material to the bottom of the groove in the material.


My clutch plate measures 0.070" on the flywheel side and 0.14 on the pressure plate side so it's going back in the car as is. I just forgot how thick the material is on the flywheel side which is what got me going down this rabbit hole.


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