Progress Thread 1967 Fastback Project

OK so finished up day 3 of the assembly process. Goal was to get the engine, transmission, rear axle, suspension, steering and wheels on.

Everything went smooth and fast until the rear transmission bracket. I am installing a TKO600 low profile version from Modern Driveline. I am overall pleased with the product fit. The only issue was the transmission cross member bracket they made did not fit well at all. I ended up cutting and re-welding the bracket to fit. The bracket did not go back far enough by one inch.

The transmission fit in the middle of the shifter hole and I did not have to trim anything from the transmission tunnel. I have 1/2 inch clearance from the top of the transmission to the tunnel brace.

First day went fast. Unpacked all the boxes of parts I have accumulated. I used all new AMK bolts/fasteners specific/correct for early 67 mustang. I also used suspension components from grab a trak - Mustangs plus - medium firmness. Engine has aluminum top end - I painted the heads for a more stock look.

Engine has a comp cam, stock rods/crank, edelbrock aluminum heads and intake. I used 1968 CJ exhaust manifolds mostly for stock look and ease in fitting the engine into a tight engine bay - which worked out well.

Rear axle is a 3.5 posi track with new 31 spline axles and all new brake internals.

Front is a new stock power disc brake setup.

Steering gear box rebuilt by Dan at Chokostang. I am going with an in the column electronic assist steering so I put a non-power steering set up in and used the old steering column for now - the interior has not been painted yet.

Wheels/tires are off an old project, I am eventually going with styled steels in a 15X7 configuration.

Now the car goes back to the restoration shop, they are almost ready to paint the hood, fenders, doors, decklid and other small parts. I will have them get those parts back on the car before I bring it home to work on getting her running and all the other stuff - interior, wiring, etc.

Day 1 (Monday) -Picked up car from the shop and transported to a friend's shop that has a lift. Installed front spindles, brakes, upper-lower control arms, coil springs, rear leaf springs, rear axle, strut rods and front sway bar.

Day 2 (Tuesday) - Installed steering gear box, fuel and brake lines, emergency brake cable, Engine, clutch and TKO 600 transmission - except the rear tranny bracket.

Day 3 (Wednesday - Today!) - cut the transmission bracket, refit it multiple times and then welded it up and reinstalled. Rechecked all bolts on everything to make sure they were tight. Installed numerous other small items and fasteners.

Here are a few of the highlight photos.

Day 1 after picking up the car - look familiar - same location I used when I took the car to be dipped for rust/paint as a bare shell. I am back to square one.






End of Day 1

Day 2








Just realized I forgot to take a photo of the shifter coming up through the transmission tunnel. Guess I was too tired to think about it tonight.

Today was rechecking a few things, put the floor console in and it fit great with the shifter.

Then I took the car back to the paint shop, they are getting ready to paint the hood, fenders, doors, decklid, etc.

Here are the photos.






Drove back home tonight and now back to working for a living. :smirk:

I got the radiator, fan with clutch, shroud and wiring in. Then did the engine break in. Still need to get the exhaust on.

Here is the video.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoZYuA0IQWw

Hey thanks for the replies. Works been busy so I have not been on here for a while.

I made and bought parts for the jig over the years. Mostly copied from accessible systems rotisserie sub frame.

https://www.accessiblesystems.com/subframe/twobeam.php

I have had second thoughts on selling it as I keep saying to my wife this is the last car restoration.

Where do you live, I am in the Kansas City area.

The transmission jack was made by a friend of mine that runs the local Ford garage from parts - he copied a unit he saw online. It worked great.

I will see him next week and ask more about it.

I will get the measurements for you. Right now I am storing it at my dad's a couple hours away. I should be down there in a couple of weeks.

On the transmission lift, my friend copied it off an old one he had bought and modified it a little to fit his needs. If you need more photos I can dig them up and post them.

Here is a current photo of the color sanding and buffing. Photos don't do it justice. It looks 10 foot deep in person.

Thanks for the encouragement too! I am glad these posts have help you and hopefully others!
You should check some others on here too - Horse Sense has some great stuff that kept me going as well as a few others.

I got another photo of the transmission jack as requested and here is a better shot of the rear quarter. One more polish and the rear quarters should be done.


I finally got the hydrolic clutch problem figured out. The Modern Driveline clutch pedal linkage will ONLY work on a 1967 Mustang pedal. I did not realize it, but I had a 1968 clutch pedal on. Here is a photo of the difference, 67 is the lower pedal and 68 is the upper, more straight pedal.
The clutch pedal is normally several inches up closer to the driver than the brake pedal.
After I switched the pedals out, it all worked great.
THE CAR MOVED THE FIRST TIME ON ITS OWN AND STOPPED SINCE THE 70's!!!

UPDATE APRIL 2016

So I got the EPAS Steering installed, broke down the A/C boxes and put them back together.
I used Classic Auto Air's new evaporator and condenser with more rows to improve efficiency. The photos of the A/C boxes coming apart, cleaning, fiberglass repair, and reassembly. I ended up going with a couple of used vacuum motors I had from other used boxes from my storage stash because on the new ones the rubber and didn't work as smoothly.

I want to complete the A/C assembly and test it prior to putting the fenders and hood on.

Should be getting the headliner and glass in soon. I had to remake one of the window track plastic guides - took some Lexan plastic, heated it with a torch and bent/ground it to shape.








I had the door glass tracts silver cad plated with gold sealant because it won't be seen and it is the most corrosion resistant plating. Original was silver cad only.


Here is a photo of my friend's Vintage Ford Service Tools. They come in handy for working on vintage automobiles.