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1968 fog light install wiring confusing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter garystocker
  • Start date Start date Jun 10, 2006

garystocker

Member
Jan 2, 2005
305
0
17
New Jersey
Jun 10, 2006
#1
  • Jun 10, 2006
  • #1
Branda kit has harnesses that have the wrong connectors on the bulb end. It also has many other bullet connectors where I have no idea where they go. There is no clear instructions.

Anyone done this install?

I see it clealy connects to the switch and to a circuit breaker, then there are the bullet connectors and this thing that you press with pliers that connects a wire into a wire in the existing harness by piercing the insulation with a staple like thing covered in a plastic housing. help.
 
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Jun 10, 2006
#2
  • Jun 10, 2006
  • #2
IF...and I say that again...IF... it's like my 66 then you have to:

INSIDE THE CAR:
put your circuit breaker on the back of the wiper moter. You need to locate your constant 12 volt power supply and your aux power. A multimeter will help that if you haven't done that already.


you have to find the thick black wire (I think with the orange strip...your instructions should say which) and that's what you use the tap on with the pliers. You can get on your back and find it, but it's much easier and more comfortable to remove the instrument cluster because you get easier access.

My 66 has a connector (yellow wire, black wire, and one that escapes me at the moment) in the harness that allows the tail lights to automatically come on when the fog lights are on. Once again, not sure if you 68 is the same way or not. I don't think that it's a requirement to hook tailight part so your foglights work.

OUTSIDE THE CAR:
Your foglight connectors probably are the right ones if you bought a kit. There are two connectors coming out of each foglight. One is for a ground and one is for the power. If you look in your kit, I bet you will find a couple of ground wires (black) that you plug in. one for each light. Plug one in each light and find a good ground. Then take the grey wire is for your power. It will run from the left light to the right light and then to the firewall and inside the car.

Hope this helps.

I did this from memory so somethings might not be accurate but once you get started you will see how things work.
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
0
0
Northern CA
Jun 11, 2006
#3
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #3
66moneypit said:
IF...and I say that again...IF... it's like my 66 then you have to:

INSIDE THE CAR:
put your circuit breaker on the back of the wiper moter. You need to locate your constant 12 volt power supply and your aux power. A multimeter will help that if you haven't done that already.


you have to find the thick black wire (I think with the orange strip...your instructions should say which) and that's what you use the tap on with the pliers. You can get on your back and find it, but it's much easier and more comfortable to remove the instrument cluster because you get easier access.

My 66 has a connector (yellow wire, black wire, and one that escapes me at the moment) in the harness that allows the tail lights to automatically come on when the fog lights are on. Once again, not sure if you 68 is the same way or not. I don't think that it's a requirement to hook tailight part so your foglights work.

OUTSIDE THE CAR:
Your foglight connectors probably are the right ones if you bought a kit. There are two connectors coming out of each foglight. One is for a ground and one is for the power. If you look in your kit, I bet you will find a couple of ground wires (black) that you plug in. one for each light. Plug one in each light and find a good ground. Then take the grey wire is for your power. It will run from the left light to the right light and then to the firewall and inside the car.

Hope this helps.

I did this from memory so somethings might not be accurate but once you get started you will see how things work.
Click to expand...


Good memory! Sounds like you got it all. The crimp on connectors are scotch connectors and will "cut" into your existing headlight 12V source (or some other aux 12V source if you want). I refused to cut into any original wires and created a original looking plug-in splice between the starter relay (battery terminal side) and the ammeter going to the 12V side of the circuit breaker...hopefully this will work (have not tested yet). If not, I'm wiring directly to the relay.
 
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