Replaced most of the front end so far and still steers hard, have to pull wheel back w/ equal pressure after a turn also. Replaced PS control valve with a (Flaming River) and new slave cylinder, valve set to correct lenght (4 7/8") and adjuster behind dust cap was set @ 100 in. lbs. then backed off 1/4 turn. (I've heard the Flaming River valves are built to tight ?) Lines are hooked correctly.
I was told the lower ball joints could be the cause, they seem OK when I try and rock the wheel once up on a jack but was told the spring is putting to much tension on them to test that way, is that true? if so what's the best way to test them? We just put in new upper ball joints.
They are original w/ 3 rivets. (got a 6 banger).
Also I'm pretty sure the steering box it ready for a rebuild, it's real touchy in a straight line, I've read the center gear has a tighter tolerance and will act up when worn down. We've tried adjusting that as well, no luck.
Any thoughts on how to properly check the lower ball joints or tips to replace?
(planing on a cross cut then chisel on the rivets for their removal)
I was told the lower ball joints could be the cause, they seem OK when I try and rock the wheel once up on a jack but was told the spring is putting to much tension on them to test that way, is that true? if so what's the best way to test them? We just put in new upper ball joints.
They are original w/ 3 rivets. (got a 6 banger).
Also I'm pretty sure the steering box it ready for a rebuild, it's real touchy in a straight line, I've read the center gear has a tighter tolerance and will act up when worn down. We've tried adjusting that as well, no luck.
Any thoughts on how to properly check the lower ball joints or tips to replace?
(planing on a cross cut then chisel on the rivets for their removal)