1969 mustang, no power at the key

It is not your starter. If it turns over, then there is nothing wrong with it. Sounds like you know your problem, no power at the key. Run a jumper wire from your battery to your key switch. You're not going to get spark at your coil unless you have a powered wire from your key switch to your coil.

If you run a jumper wire to your coil, and jump the starter solenoid, she should fire right up....

When you first attempted the install, what did you take apart? It's likely that something you changed is the culprit.

I am haveing very similar problem with my '66. This car was a garage find that last ran in 1970 after motor jumped the timing chain and was gargared for nearly 35 years.

I have a freshly rebuilt motor that was properly run-in. I have installed it in the vehicle with manual trans, Ford distributor, stock coil, stock starter/solenoid, and Pertronix Ignitor I pointless ignition. Harness and dash components are stock and have been cleaned and reassembled with new bezel, lenses, etc. The starter will NOT turn with the #16 (red with green stripe on FOMOCO 1966 wiring diagram) ignition wire attached to the "+" terminal of the coil. The stock Alternator Regulator simply clicks. When I remove the coil wire, the starter will turn the motor, but no-spark of course. From this , I know the starter and solenoid are operable.

I can start the engine from the ignition swithch with a hot wire from the battery to the "+" terminal on the coil. This overrides wire #16 from the ignition switch to the coil. I cannot turn off the engine with the ignition switch (only by pulling a wire or choking it). Again, this confirms that the motor runs, starter works, and all other elements of the high voltage inition circuit works.

The problem seems to be isolated to the ignition switch, the Pink resistor ignition wire #16A, an incorrect wiring connection in the dash components, or some other grounding problem or short in the circuit.

Let me know how you resolved yoru 1969 problem or does anyone have any thoughts or solutions on this problem description?

I agree that you shouldn't have to run a jumper wire. But it is nice to know that it will start when you do.

But if you don't have power at your key, follow that wire back to its power source.

You do not have spark because your coil thinks your key is off. If you run a long jumper wire to your +12V constant on your key, i'm positive everything would work.

You're just going to have to find the problem that lies between the battery and the ignition switch. I wish I could be there to help, but it would be a bit of a drive from northern iowa....