1970 Mustang Stroker Engine Help

Maybe try to go 1 wire distributor, auto zone solenoid, ford wter pump, msd coil, and go for a billet mechanical pump(cosmetic). Just a few suggestions.

A big inch Windsor with good heads doesn't need to rev over 6K to make 500hp so I think the stock Duraspark distributor is a good choice. It's inexpensive and reliable. Do a search on it for more info. You might consider sending it off to have it re-curved and have a full length bushing installed, but it's not absolutely necessary.

The MSD Blaster II coil has a long spark duration and more than enough amps for any NA engine. It's an oil filled coil, so it will eventually wear out, but unless it's truly your daily driver and you put 12K a year on it, it will probably last the lifetime of your car. There are several other good coils, but compare specs on both amps and spark time rather than voltage. From the specs I've seen published, the Pertronix Flamethrower comes in dead last as aftermarket coils go.

I'd recommend a light weight late model permanent magnet starter that has a built in solenoid. If you want to keep a stock appearance, use whatever solenoid you want on the fender apron and wire it in series.

The VR is just personal opinion. The electronic ones are cheap, reliable and will last a long time if you don't care that it doesn't look correct. On the other hand, if you don't really log a lot of miles and you keep it in a garage, the old style reproduction units will last quite a while. Their biggest disadvantage is that the mechanical relays can corrode and stop switching. I've had a repro Autolite regulator on since '94 with no problems. I've driven my mach from Washington D.C. to Dallas, Tx and back, and I've even taken it out on the track a couple of times so I haven't exactly babied it, but I do keep it parked in my garage. As mentioned previously, a 1 wire alternator is another good option that will eliminate the VR entirely.

Use an aluminum Edelbrock water pump if you plan to retain all the '69 front dress. It flows a lot better than stock and weighs less. Painted blue you can't tell it's not stock.

Carter fuel pump. The regular 6 psi street pump is more than enough. If money is no object, there's a new billet pump out that's supposed to be self regulating. It sounds cool, but I have no 1st hand experience with it, and it's probably overkill.

All this and it's still just worth .02

I would stick with a remote solenoid just so you can bypass the chance of heat soaking it.
I am partial to MSD so I would suggest them as far as electronics.
Waterpump I would stick with Stuart and Edelbrock. DO NOT buy Millidon. They do not flow enough at idle to keep your motor cool.
Kevin

I would put a junkyard (or new if it's in the budget) 3G alternator on it. I put one on my '70 vert and I love it.

I agree that Duraspark dizzy and box with MSD coil isn't a bad way.

I like the newer '94 up Mustang gear reduction starter with the solenoid on it. Spins the engine faster and it's smaller and lighter. My '92 F-150 came with it and it has a plastic heat sheild from the factory. I got a replacement from Ford a few years ago for $10. Not sure if they're still available.

You didn't say you were on low budget, so:
Crane optic dizzy - has all the curves built in.
Jacobs 2000 ignition and coil - these will spark with under 6V of battery juice. Why is that good? If your alternator takes a dump, you can run on the battery quite a bit longer. Been there, done that and it mattered.
Edelbrock eater pump.
Ford hi-torque mini starter.
Carter fuel pumps are good. Will you run 3/8 fuel lines? If so, you might want to get a pump with 3/8" inlet/outlet.