ACTUALLY, it was not a 600 cfm Holley, it was a 575 Holley and it produced 210 HP in stock trim. Also, if it was orginally a 5 speed originally, it would have come stock with 3.08's.
How many Tbird turbo coupes were made? I have an 85gt and wanted to get a 3.73 rear and searched for a t coupe but had no luck. Just curious as to if they are prevalent or not? Also do I understang right that 85gt T5 came with 2.73 standard and 3.08s optional? THX
Joe E.
Good Call. The J/Y upgrade is a cheap alternative. I'd love to help out more, but as said above, searching stangnet is the best way to find out almost anything about the 'ol stangs. Trust me, any question you are thinking of has probably been asked already.
Thanks for correcting me on the torque specs and power output of the various engines in '85. I was just quoting off the top of my head.
Thanks for helpin the noob out everyone, we all remember our first stang, and all the questions with it.
Anyhow, welcome to the muscle side of the street It won't be long and you'll be walking all over your friends. The first thing you'll notice is that parts are much cheaper for the Mustang than your average import and they'll do more for your car.
There are a few things I'd do for your car:
1. Complete tune... plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coolant, brakes, clutch, what have you. Get access to a timing light and advance your timing a little, then install a 180* thermostat when you are going through the cooling system.
2. Gears, find-out what ratio rear-end your car came with, if you are lucky enough to have 3.08 gears then I'd maybe focus on some other things, then get back to gearing. If you have 2.73's I'd maybe adress this issue a little faster. The way to check... there should be a plaque or tag in the door jamb. This should have a code somewhere on it that says axle or axl and then has a digit code like 15 or R5 etc ('85s had this right guys?). You can use this code on the web to find your ratio, or there should be a code on the axle case or diff cover tag. When you are ready to address gears, You could invest in a full gear-set and labor etc, but I think you would be throwing your money away on the old 7.5" axle... Scour junkyards for a wrecked 86-93 with the 8.8" and swap it out, then gear the stronger axle accordingly. I run 3.73's in my car and love them.
3. Exhaust upgrade, get the true dual exhaust setup.
4. Shifter, pick-up a shifter that feels the way you want, but also has adjustable stops to keep you from ramming it 'litteraly' through the dash. I run the Hurst Pro-comp Chrome shifter because it looks, feels and reminds me of the Muscle cars from yester-years that I love.
5. Tires/structure. "Tires are what wins a race" get a good set of tires and then sure-up the structure of the car with strut-tower brace and subframe connectors.
Those are the basics that everyone has commented on. From there, intake, carb, headers, cam, heads, 331 stroker engine the list goes on, but I warn you, the "mod-bug" will bite and it becomes addicting.
Goodluck man and again welcome to "REAR WHEEL DRIVE"
2. Gears, find-out what ratio rear-end your car came with, if you are lucky enough to have 3.08 gears then I'd maybe focus on some other things, then get back to gearing. If you have 2.73's I'd maybe adress this issue a little faster. The way to check... there should be a plaque or tag in the door jamb. This should have a code somewhere on it that says axle or axl and then has a digit code like 15 or R5 etc ('85s had this right guys?). You can use this code on the web to find your ratio, or there should be a code on the axle case or diff cover tag.
i would amend this to say to actually physically check the DS to tire rotation ratio. there are so many non-stock geared stangs around, that is the only way to know for sure what you have (read i would not rely on the tag).