1994 Mustang 5.0 - rpms drop when pressing gas while stopped.

Hey all, just joined today. I have a 1994 Mustang GT 5 speed.Recently have Been having idling issues which turned out to be the IAC. No big deal, fixed it. Everything runs smooth except when starting from a stop. The car idles at 900rpms and then drops down to below 500rpms and then accelerates. Maybe its fuel related but I’m not too sure. Once it’s rolling and driving at any speed it seems to be fine. I will note though, when going any speed, be it 10 or even 70mph, when you push the clutch in, and let the rpms settle, it still drops a little before it picks up but not as bad as when stopped. It doesn’t seem to starve for fuel even at rev limiter so I’m unsure as to what it could be. Plan on changing fuel filter here soon to see if that will help.

Very true. I got around to changing the filter today. Haven’t really noticed a change honestly, but for a few bucks couldn’t hurt. The car is driveable, just use a heavier foot and it does just fine. Once it’s moving you can even just barely toe it, and the rpms don’t drop. It’s just when it’s at a dead stop and you barely barely touch the pedal the rpms drop then go up then settle. Using a more forceful step from the idle seems to work fine. It’s just that one small issue that bothers me. Sometimes if you catch it just right, and press lightly and slowly, it will just stall out and die. But as I said before, completely drivable with a heavier foot. I plan on replacing the ICM and distributor here soon because my current one has a lot of miles on it and I feel like it misses just a touch. I’ll keep this updated, so when I find the solution, I can let any other SN95 5.0 owner know what I did. Any other suggestions are completely welcome and thank you Josefsz for telling me some things to check out!

Sorry for the delayed response. I bought an Innova Digital Scanner for OBD1 Fords. Running the KOEO test brought up 2 codes for missing EGR stuff because it was deleted when i had bought it so I don't think that should be a big deal. The KOER test only threw back code 157 for "MAF below minimum voltage". Any ideas if its the MAF screwing up? I'll try cleaning it and probing some wires to see what i can find.